ignition wire burnt - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 18, 08:05 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
Richard
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 168
ignition wire burnt

Hey guys,

Long story short, just completed an LS1 swap into my '68. Used PSI harness and had ignition feed going to ign terminal in original fuse box. Car started fine for a couple of days. Still working out some details, but now car won't start. Pulled plug and it seems to fire only when letting off of key start. Hits one time and thats it. No more. Checked voltage at ignition terminal and getting 12v with key on but when cranking, drops down to 8 or 9. I assume this is why no start. Upon pulling dash and checking ignition switch I found a wire melted. This is a brown and white wire coming from a bundle of harnesses. This brown and white wire joins another looks like brown wire going to a single slide in type connector. The brown and white wire is a single, silver?? thin, maybe resistor wire?? Any ideas on what that wire is or where can I find a wire for my igntion feed that will provide 12 volts when cranking to get my engine started again? I would appreciate any help. I am not electrically inclined!!! Thank You.
rebelbayou is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 18, 04:20 PM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,871
Garage
Re: ignition wire burnt

According to '68 wire diagrams, brn/wht is GEN light circuit.
OE ign power wire is cloth covered resistive wire, maybe 1.3 ohms, I think.
Now with ign swapout to LS, it will need full power.
It may need to be from an added relay and relay powered by IGN power from switch.
As I believe, '68 ign switches have ign power from switch in START position, then once engine starts, key is released and power is from the normal IGN position.
Like I suggested, you may need to wire this OE power, from IGN spade on fuse panel, to power relay for ign power.
As far as 8 to 9 volts when cranking, battery needs externally charged and/or a bigger capacity battery for more power.
Probably the reason for momentary power, from existing ign switch, may be due to carboned/burnt contacts inside switch.
How many times has it been turned between the two positions in its life?
Every time the contacts got close to each other, both positions going into and out of IGN, a spark is generated and this action burns the contacts.
Over time, this carbon builds up.
I have taken apart ign switch and emery papered the contacts and reassembled the switch, but I would not advise it, a lot of springs and loose parts come about.
Disassemble in a cake pan catching all parts falling.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden Ö enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 18, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
Senior Tech
Richard
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 168
Re: ignition wire burnt

Hey Everett,

Thanks for replying and explaining that to me. I was hoping you would chime in because you have helped me in the past and you are the electrical guru of this forum. I solved the no start problem by replacing the starter. It was dragging bad. I replaced the starter and it started right up. I think the momentary starting problem was with the bendix on the starter. On the test machine it would kick in and out over and over. Never seen one do that before and probably would not have found it if I hadn't had it tested. I had put a toggle switch straight from the battery + to the ignition feed from PCM and it still didn't make a difference so thats when I suspected the starter. I also went back to the ignition spade terminal off the original fuse box and it's starting and running okay so far. I replaced the melted wire in the dash and put it all back together and everything seems to work ok.

On another note, I have 3 wires hanging from my old harness that went to my old alternator. One of them is hot all the time. What should I do with these wires? My PSI harness has a single wire going to the new alternator, so I guess that's all I need. Also, what about my voltage regulator on the radiator support? Do I still need it? Thanks for taking the time to explain this electrical stuff to us "electical dummies" out here. I learn a little more every time I visit this forum.

Richard
rebelbayou is offline  
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 18, 09:05 AM
Super Moderator
Bess-68's rule
 
Everett#2390's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Va Beach VA
Posts: 31,871
Garage
Re: ignition wire burnt

Yes, the hot wire, red in color, I would wager, went to the BATT stud of the older Delcrotron 10DN.
The other two wires, blue wire and a white wire, went between the external regulator and alternator for powering the field controlling the amount of current converted.
You should insulate the red wire terminal and tie all back, even behind the fender if this replacement harness took the same OE route.
You're welcome, glad to help and explain.
Glad you're on a roll with your ride.

Give a man a rescued dog for the health of both their souls. May 2017 ROTM Winner - Thank you!
'
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
CUBS - 2016 World Series Champions - Thank you, Joe Madden Ö enjoy your next chapter.
Everett#2390 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome