Fuel pressure requirements - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Location: Lake Mary, Florida
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Fuel pressure requirements

In my pursuit of converting my mechanical fuel pump over to an electric one, I've researched and found that the Eldelbrock performance carb requires 5.5 PSI (pounds per square inch). I have the fuel pressure regulator that will allow me to dial in this pressure, and with a good quality fuel pressure gauge, I can monitor this at the carb fuel inlet.

My issue is the electric fuel pump. I see some rated in the ranges of 72 to 130 GPH (gallons per hour), and PSI ratings of 5-7 PSI, or, Holley has a "Mighty Mite" that is rated at 32 GPH and 4-7 PSI. No issues with the PSI, but what about the gallons per hour rating? My engine is a basic V8, no hop up parts other than headers and An Edelbrock intake and their performance carb.

It would seem the 32 GPH fuel pump would match or even exceed what the stock mechanical fuel pump is capable of delivering. So, would I have a need to buy a more expensive pump that flows more GPH, or can the lower GPH pump work?

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 06:12 AM
R66
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Ron
 
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Re: Fuel pressure requirements

Think about it!!
You are driving at 60 MPH on the highway for an hour. Your car gets 15 MPG, so you use 4 gallons in an hour.
The pump is rated at the maximum output with no restrictions. When you hook it up to a discharge line, it reduces the flow. However, the flow still only needs to be 5 or 6 GPH if you are driving flat out for an hour.
The 32 GPH pump is more than adequate.
Why do you want an electric pump??? Just curious.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 06:38 AM
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Re: Fuel pressure requirements

That little $50 Holley pump is the one my buddy has on his Dodge Challenger,
sounds like the Hydraulic pump on our Ford F-650 dump truck.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 18, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Fuel pressure requirements

Quote:
Originally Posted by R66 View Post
Think about it!!
You are driving at 60 MPH on the highway for an hour. Your car gets 15 MPG, so you use 4 gallons in an hour.
The pump is rated at the maximum output with no restrictions. When you hook it up to a discharge line, it reduces the flow. However, the flow still only needs to be 5 or 6 GPH if you are driving flat out for an hour.
The 32 GPH pump is more than adequate.
Why do you want an electric pump??? Just curious.
In a post I made a couple of weeks ago, I mentioned the Camaro sits for a good month or two. The fuel in the carb (an Eldelbrock performer) evaporates from the bowl, and I end up cranking the engine for a good 20 to 30 seconds before I have enough fuel in the carb bowl to get it started. The mechanical fuel pump is only a year old, as I figured that was the initial culprit. I figure now I can wire in an electric fuel pump to the ignition (lead is hot when key is on), let it build pressure to the carb and fill the bowl, then crank it over.

Common sense did tell me that 32 GPH would be enough, but was wondering why Holley also makes a carb fuel pump that puts out 120 plus gallons per hour. Maybe those dual carbs sitting on a blower are thirsty?

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 18, 06:44 AM
R66
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Ron
 
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Re: Fuel pressure requirements

You might be correct on the Top Fuel blown motors needing the high GPM, but I think it is more advertising hype than anything.
I share your problem in resolving the dry AFB when the car sits for a few days. I don't however worry about it as I don't want the car to fire up on the first revolution. In my opinion, the oil has drained back to the pan and the bearings are left with a thin film until the pump spins and the oil pressure comes up. If you have a mechanical oil gauge you can see what I mean.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 18, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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Kevin
 
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Re: Fuel pressure requirements

Quote:
Originally Posted by R66 View Post
You might be correct on the Top Fuel blown motors needing the high GPM, but I think it is more advertising hype than anything.
I share your problem in resolving the dry AFB when the car sits for a few days. I don't however worry about it as I don't want the car to fire up on the first revolution. In my opinion, the oil has drained back to the pan and the bearings are left with a thin film until the pump spins and the oil pressure comes up. If you have a mechanical oil gauge you can see what I mean.
I follow you. I've removed the distributor a time or two to spin the oil pump when its sat over 6 months (contract work in Germany had me away for a long time).

I think I'll have the best with this setup. I'll have a safety cutoff switch on the pump, so I can turn it off, crank the engine to obtain oil pressure, then turn on the electric fuel pump and allow it to build pressure and fill the carb bowl, then give it a few presses of the gas pedal, and fire it up.

Never argue with an idiot; they'll only drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
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