Coolant Temp Sensor Problem - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 18, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

I have 2 coolant sensors installed now. One on each side of the engine. The passenger side handles 2 fan controllers and the drivers side has been misused to run the dummy light along with a gauge which from my understanding has to be matched to a sender and not piggybacked on another.

I ned to seperate the dummy light from the guage so the both act approprietly but how do I do that? Are these ports put in at manufacture time and I am restricted to the 2 I got or is there some other place /port that I don't know about or is it a matter of having another port machined in?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 18, 06:05 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

If you have a gauge why do you need a dummy light?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 18, 08:54 AM
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Gauge and light are 2 different senders. If you are dead set on having both, you can get a thermostat housing that has provisions for what you are asking for.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 18, 09:05 AM
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Exclamation Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

Yeah two different beasts. Gauge needs a "Sender" Warning lights use a "Switch." As Keith stated you will need another port to have both and at the sound of it you have used all other water jacket ports, so the radiator hose fitting is the only other option. No one to the best of my knowledge makes a combined sender/switch unit and if they did having the right specs for both to be calibrated right is questionable. Many senders from various manufacturers have wide variances of outputs.

As to having both, there is something to be said for the immediacy of a WARNING light verses the slow sweep of a gauge, especially a gauge not in the center dash by something else you monitor frequently such as speedometer or Tachometer. So having both covers your bases.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 02:37 AM Thread Starter
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Similar problem. I need an extra coolant port. I don't understand using the thermo housing as a port. You would have a dry sender until the thermostat opened correct? That doesn't make sense to me. Can't you get a splitter and use one port for both senders?
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 04:08 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

The only air you should have in the coolant system is in the radiator, and yes the elbow will have fluid in it all the time until the coolant system is drained, and heat transfer through the case to the engine block will get you readings even when the thermostat is closed. Most people would use this to signal fans controllers, not a gauge for accuracy.


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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 11:22 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

Use a brass "Tee
" in the piping. If one has to be that accurate then use the leg of the Tee that reads the same. You should get water flow in both legs and should read accurately.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 11:23 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by CityguyUSA View Post
That doesn't make sense to me. Can't you get a splitter and use one port for both senders?
What I did to preserve the dash light when I added a temp gauge. It's a brass "T". I don't have temp port in my head, just intake manifold. Works fine
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 19, 10:10 PM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

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Originally Posted by 69-Pace View Post
The only air you should have in the coolant system is in the radiator, and yes the elbow will have fluid in it all the time until the coolant system is drained, and heat transfer through the case to the engine block will get you readings even when the thermostat is closed. Most people would use this to signal fans controllers, not a gauge for accuracy.
So is the thinking that the head would be more accurate than the inlet neck and that the neck would likely read higher?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 19, 05:17 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

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Originally Posted by MickyT View Post
So is the thinking that the head would be more accurate than the inlet neck and that the neck would likely read higher?
Sensing ECT the diff between the 2 locations is negligible.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 17th, 19, 07:43 AM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

FWIW I used my IR temp gun at the base of the "T" fitting that goes into my manifold and the sensor itself and there is about a 8 degree difference. If my gauge says 170 the temp is really 178 if this is true....

I don't have heads with a temp port but using the IR temp gun I read temp at the heater hose feed at manifold and WP and those mirror what the base of m "T" reads so there is a slight reduction in what the temp "gauge" sender I have given it is about 1" above the manifold port due to the T fitting I have light and gauge senders plumbed in

Granted there is some temp "absorption" in reading the "metal" vs "in" the coolant flow...but not enough to throw the gauge or light off by much IMHO
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 19, 05:39 PM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

You could get a Murphy switch gauge and run your light off of the adjustable switch in the gauge.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 19, 09:15 PM
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The thermostat housing in post 4 is the easiest , and probably the least likely thing to fail. More potential for leaks with a tee, and more potential for it to get knocked loose. Something to be said for simplicity . just my opinion.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 19, 10:03 PM
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Re: Coolant Temp Sensor Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by X-77 keith View Post
The thermostat housing in post 4 is the easiest , and probably the least likely thing to fail. More potential for leaks with a tee, and more potential for it to get knocked loose. Something to be said for simplicity . just my opinion.

Agree that more connections between point A & B can be more prone to leaks but in terms of sensor install.....a little Teflon tape make them pretty bullet leak proof IMHO

Op has 2 water ports to tap in but not sure if one on each head or one on intake manifold, I only have one which is on manifold. For me the standard 15 degree housing does not work with my Edekbrock intake manifold which has the one port the sender hits the upper radiator hose using fixed stat housing so I had to go to a "swivel" type (taller) which I have found none with a port and if so having the sender mounted that high front & center of the motor, to me, looks awkward and yeah more prone to hitting it when dealing with motor maintenance

So my fix to get gauge and dash light to be functional, without getting the dual switch/gauge you note, was use a T off the one port I have for the two sender types I needed (stock & autometer).

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 19, 06:35 AM
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I see your delima. Your intake should have the provision for the sender on the passanger side, just not machined. Edelbrock made those intakes with and without the passanger provision machined. The Tee works no doubt, but I personally would machine the intake it being the provision is already there. That would give a even less awquard look, and cleaner look.
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