Key Buzzer - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Key Buzzer

I have been obsessed with making my key buzzer work on my 69 for a long time. Many may say, "That's not a problem at all." I have had this car for 6 years and at first I couldn't even find a steering column buzzer switch to order which was missing from the steering column. It finally seemed to become available about a year ago for a non-tilting column. Then the clip that holds it in the column became available recently. I had to order a new ignition switch also, since the tab on the ignition switch that activates the buzzer switch was absent on my old ignition switch. Now I have everything in place and it still doesn't work.


My electrical tests show that the ignition switch is getting good contact with the buzzer switch when the key is inserted. There is electrical continuity between the prongs on the buzzer switch with the key inserted. In the harmonica connector on the column, jumping the pink and black female connectors does nothing. No buzzing. Testing continuity on the corresponding male connectors does show continuity with the key inserted. As I understand it, there could be a bad connection or break in the wiring between the column and the horn relay. The thought of having to test all of that is pretty daunting for a "toy electrician."



Before I give up, I wanted to ask a question that I hoped might save me a lot of trouble. When I ground the pink wire connection on the horn relay, the relay buzzes. However, it is extremely weak; far from the fairly loud "dying cow" noise that so many have described on the older forum posts. If you were in the car with the windows rolled up, you probably wouldn't even hear it. You must strain to hear it with the windows down. My question is: Could my problem be due to a poorly functioning old horn relay that needs to be replaced? My horns seem to be working fine. I would much rather replace the horn relay than go digging for a chassis wiring problem. Thanks for your help.

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 11:05 AM
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The horn relay that is located on the core support does more than just sound the horns. I wojld run that through the trenches

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

stamatisg1977, Are you saying that I should replace the horn relay as I suggested in the 3rd paragraph of my post? Not sure what you mean by running it through the trenches. Thanks.

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 12:00 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

I would try grounding the pink wire at the steering column connector directly to the car body instead of jumping from the black to pink wire. As soon as you ground the pink wire the relay should buzz the same as if you were grounding the pink relay terminal directly at the relay. If it doesn't then I would say that pink wire is broken somewhere. If it does buzz then I would start looking at the door switches. Does the dome light come on when the door is open?

As far as the loudness of the buzzing goes, I would check the voltage of the red wire at the relay and make sure it is the same as the battery voltage. If it is then I might try replacing the relay. How the relay is mounted to the car body also has an effect on how loud the buzzing is as the vibration would travel through the metal in the car body which might amplify it some.


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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

blitzer454, I think we have a major breakthrough. First of all, the door switch is working; the dome light comes on when the door is open. I grounded the female pink wire connector at the harmonica connector on the column directly to the nearest metal. I got a buzz (not like after a couple of cocktails, but a buzz nonetheless ) I checked the voltage at the horn relay and it was about 12.4. Same at the battery. To me, this sounds like a possible bad ground with the black wire at the harmonica next to the pink wire. If so, should I splice a new wire into the black wire before it enters the harmonica and run this to the nearest ground. Please give me your opinion on proceeding.


PS: I have had the horn relay off of the radiator support during all of this. I did place it against metal for the latest tests and it was louder, but still not very loud at all.

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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Last edited by rhcdmd; Dec 18th, 18 at 01:31 PM. Reason: new results in electrical test
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 01:36 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

Yep, it does sound like a bad connection at the column. The terminals are pretty easy to remove from the shroud so maybe try taking the black wire out and manipulating the contacts so they will make better contact.

It also sounds like your getting full voltage at the relay so I would say it's as loud as it's going to get, I can't say if a new one would be any louder but it's worth a shot. I would be willing to bet that the original relays made in the late 60's and 70's are louder than the ones being produced today, it's one of those situations where you wish you could try it before you buy it. Maybe finding a bunch in a junk yard would be the better way to go. Of course the guy at the counter is going to think your nuts.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 01:41 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

I forgot to add that the black wire is ground through the door switch, so the relay will only buzz if you left the keys in the car and then you opened the car door. If you simply run the black wire directly to ground at the column connector then the relay is going to buzz all the time after you insert the key and I don't think that's what you want.


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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

Looks like it will be tomorrow before I can get back to work on this. I suspect, but am not positive that the black wire has a good connection to the female harmonica connector. If not, any advice on how the remove the black wire and check it. I don't want to tear anything up and create a new problem. This may or may not be a valid question, but is it possible that this black wire is not connected to the door switch to achieve a ground?

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 02:13 PM
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Re: Key Buzzer

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhcdmd View Post
stamatisg1977, Are you saying that I should replace the horn relay as I suggested in the 3rd paragraph of my post? Not sure what you mean by running it through the trenches. Thanks.

not replace but run continuity/grounding tests like everything else. but it seems others here are getting you on the right track

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 02:31 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

If you were able to jumper between this black wire and the pink wire and got the relay to buzz then I would say that the wire is connected to the door switch so the problem is just a bad connection at the column connector. To remove the terminal from the shroud involves sliding a small screwdriver along side of the terminal. There's a little metal tab than protrudes from the terminal that locks it in the plastic shroud, it is this tab you are trying to depress to slide the terminal out of the shroud.

On a side note, if you don't care about originality then I would consider using a piezo buzzer like this one, and connect it to the red and pink terminals at the horn relay. It will be much louder than the relay and cheaper than buying a new horn relay.


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Last edited by blitzer454; Dec 18th, 18 at 02:42 PM.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

I hate to make this confusing, but I originally posted that I had been able to get a buzz by connecting the black and pink female terminals. However, I was using one of the alligator clip ends of my grounding test wire to jump the two terminals and I think it was still connected to my ground at the time. I then edited that out of my post. I have not been able to reproduce a buzz by jumping these 2 wire terminals. Pink wire has continuity to the relay. The black wire does not seem to be a working ground. The black wire seems to be secure in the harmonica and moving the wire in and out moves the metal terminal, so I figured there is a good connection there. That is why I asked about the black wire possibly not connected to the door switch in case that could explain this. I hope there is not a break in the black wire somewhere. So again, is the black wire being disconnected from the door switch a possibility if I find that the harmonica end is good?

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 03:38 PM
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Lee
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

Oh, okay I did misunderstand what you were doing, so yeah the black wire may not be connected to the door jamb switch. Try testing continuity from the black wire to ground and open and close the door. You should get continuity when the door is open. Since the dome light works you already know the door switch is good.


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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 18, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

Thanks, I really appreciate it.

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Robin
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

blitzer454, I removed the door switch and repeatedly tested for continuity between the black wire female terminal on the harmonica and the black wire terminal on the door switch. There was no continuity. I decided that it might be best to replace the wire and use the old terminals. My problem is that for the life of me I cannot remove the female terminal from the harmonica. I must be missing something in the instructions or I am doing it wrong. I do not want to destroy the terminal. Any pictures or more specific instructions? About to pull my hair out....looks like it should be simple and I cannot figure out what is holding it in.

1969 SS 396/375
11C Norwood
M21 3.73 12 bolt

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 18, 01:55 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Key Buzzer

This should help illustrate the removal. Often there is a square notch in the connector
to allow the tab to be inserted so that's the side you need to insert a pick into.
https://www.americanautowire.com/vie...nector-cavity/

Al

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