Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lake Mary, Florida
Re: '67 Camaro Dead
Do as Vega$69 has stated: "check for 12v at the horn relay buss bar. If no power you probably fried the fusible link at the terminal on the radiator support. If you have 12v at the buss bar and no power at the fuse box then most likely the fusible link from the horn relay to the firewall bulkhead connector".
Two more things...
1) A new starter, but when you turned the key, did the starter work (spin the engine) prior to you installing the shifter/transmission/console? Or after performing any rewiring to include the neutral safety switch in your other thread reference?
In reading your other thread on installing the floor shifter, picture is a 1967 style factory shifter. I see it has the neutral safety switch installed. Is it a correct neutral safety switch for your transmission? I'll assume yes, as you most likely bought it when you also obtained the updated transmission.
The two smaller gauge wires of the switch are for the reverse lights. The green wire from the safety switch will connect to the green wire that is most likely located by or near the steering column (if it was once a column shift), and eventually this green wire runs back to the trunk, and connects to the two reverse light bulb sockets of your rear taillight assemblies. The red wire (some call it a pinkish wire when looking at a color factory wiring for a 67 Camaro) from the neutral safety switch will connect to a red (or pinkish in color) wire at the same location as the green wire, which then connects to the fuse block, according to the factory wiring diagram for a 67 Camaro, as well as how it is on my 67. Power from this red/pinkish wire of the fuse block runs to the neutral safety switch, and when the shifter is in the reverse position, 12 volts is applied to the green wire that runs back to the reverse lights.
2) As to the purple starter wires, in that link you provided, someone spliced a red lead to one of the purple leads. For 1967, Chevy used a solid purple wire, and a purple with a white tracer stripe to the ignition switch. The neutral safety switch simply is in between these two wires, which allowed 12 volts to pass between them when the shifter was in the park or neutral gear selection for an automatic transmission.
By all means, REMOVE THAT RED household wiring TWIST from the red wire to purple wire!!! Redo this connection correctly by using some heat shrink tube, and good 12 gauge wire, and solder the wires together, then slide up the heat shrink tubing around the soldered ends, and heat it with the soldering gun tip or a cigarette lighter. Or, use a good quality connector that has insulated blade style male/female connectors and avoid the crimp connectors such as the yellow one also seen in your picture; these can loosen up over time, and disconnect. If you have no other choice but to use a crimp type connector to join two wires, then slip a piece of heat shrink on one side of the wire, crimp them together, than slide the heat shrink over this connector and shrink it using heat. This will aid in keeping the crimp connector from loosening and one or both wires from coming off.
On wires that will carry a higher current flow such as these purple wires, 12 gauge is important. Anything smaller gauge (such as common 16 gauge that most folks buy at the auto part store) can and will get hot and potentially burn off the insulation, and make for a electrical smell, or worse, a fire.
By looking at that picture, I'm concerned with what other wiring issues your going to run into.
Never argue with an idiot; they'll only drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Last edited by bucko; Jan 25th, 19 at 07:48 AM.