Specific dash light assistance - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Specific dash light assistance

Hey all. 1967 factory RS
First, I enjoy the forum and have used to it correct several minor issues. That being said I have been through the sticky's and searched prior to posting my question.
Second, we can likely rule out the following parts (not el cheapo versions) that I have already addressed:
-(Under the hood), horn,headlights,highbeams all functioning like they should.
-replaced headlight dash switch
-replaced dimmer switch and pigtail connector
-replaced all fuses/cleaned fuse terminals
-replaced turn signal switch (8-wire) and relays (hazards and turn signals working great)
-replaced dash circuit board
-replaced all dash bulb sockets
-replaced all dash bulbs
-installed common ground to top gauge to dash panel mounting screw

I have checked the circuit board as mentioned in the sticky and everything is checking clear.
Highbeam indicator works, so ground is good.
All lower dash bulbs appear to work as intended on startup or when forced to illuminate via manipulating ground/12v as needed.

Issue is none of the upper dash lamp bulbs (gauge illumination) are working. This I have traced to lack of 12v at the grey wire on the harness.

But here's is where I'm stuck. While my harness appears intact, I can't trace the grey wire back to the headlamp switch. Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears it should come from the heater instrument lamp. I DONT HAVE ONE. I have a previously installed Vintage Air setup.

SOOOO, assuming the grey wire goes to the heater/console harness after leaving the fuse block, Is it necessary to wire a jumper on the grey wire to continue the circuit to the dash harness?

Any input would be helpful at this point. I will update on any progress made.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 11:57 AM
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Re: Specific dash light assistance

Did you convert the factory heater control to run the VA system?

Even if not the light for the heater control should still be there under the dash unless it was cut off and if it was you’d still have the grey wire somewhere.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Specific dash light assistance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
Did you convert the factory heater control to run the VA system?

Even if not the light for the heater control should still be there under the dash unless it was cut off and if it was you’d still have the grey wire somewhere.
P/O had the vintage air installed.

I'll be pulling the after market glove box back off to access the harness again to be sure. I remember seeing a bulb socket, but believe it was for the glove box lamp (which is deleted). I have a two-piece after market glove box which is pretty nice and works with the size of the vintage air components behind it. I did not find any loose wires or hacking to the harness, other than a jumper between the purple neutral safety switch for the prior power glide (now a four speed) and I used blade connectors to install a hurst backup switch to jumper the pink and green wires for the back up lights (now working).

My main questions are:

Would the lack of a bulb in the heater light socket prevent the dash harness from getting the 12 v? It would seem counter-intuitive that a failed heater light bulb would kill the dash gauge lamps.

Which headlamp switch wire leads to the grey wire or dash instrument harness? I can't figure that out looking at the diagram.

It is possible that the Vintage A/C controls include a lighting provision, and perhaps it was installed incorrectly or incompletely. I'll have to check that as well.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 05:35 PM
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Re: Specific dash light assistance

While I do not have specific 1967 Camaro wiring diagrams, the basic layout should be close to how things are wired in my 68 Chevy II Nova.

On it off of the harness for the instrument panel there is a gray wire and this is for the illumination circuit. This gray wire then gets routed to the backside of the fuse block to the left side of the INST LPS Fuse (bottom left corner of the fuse block). On the right side of this same fuse on the backside there is a Green wire than then gets routed to the headlight switch.

So how this circuit works is when the headlight switch is pulled halfway out or fully out, depending on the rotation of the headlight knob as this brightens or dims the instrument panel illumination lights, voltage anywhere from 0V to full battery voltage is then sent out on the green wire down to the fuse in the fuse block. Once power gets past the fuse, the wire then changes to gray and out to any illumination lights in the instrument panel and possibly the heater controls.

If one wanted to add additional illumination lights to the car such as ones found on aftermarket gauges, the 1/4" male terminal in the fuse block to the left of the INST LPS fuse labeled LPS can be used as a spot to plug in the additional lights and the wiring being protected by a fuse.

1968 Illumination Circuit by itself:




1968 Illumination circuit traced out:




Fuse Block frontside and backside:



Jim

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 06:05 PM
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Re: Specific dash light assistance

What are your using for VA control. The original control converted or a VA specific control. If original it would still have the light. If VA specific it has its own light

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 19, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Im using the previously install va specific instrument control. I wont know if it is wired with a light till i address the other issue first unless i find they are directly related.
And i found it. Using my console harness diagram, i traced the wires behind the glove box and bingo....
During the power glide to 4 speed conversion, someone butt spliced the grey (12v) and black (-) wires (2x) shifter lightbulb socket wires together.
That was causing an instant short killing the feed back to the console harness of 12v. Lucky i found it hidden beneath the wire wrap which looked old and factory.
Seeing as it blows the 4 amp fuse, i see why dingbat put in a 25 amp to try and fix it - never a good idea and probably causing the dash circuit to act as a fuse itself.
Anyways, i really appreciate the help and after verifying that i still have 12v at the dash harness plug to the circuit, i capped the wires separately and all is good. I try and post a photo later and check out the va for properly installed lamp once i get the dash operable and still have the glove box out.
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