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Voltage stuck at 12

1K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  elan71 
#1 ·
Hey guys got the car out of storage today and got about a half mile down the road and noticed that the voltage gauge was pegged and my tach light was so bright I thought it was going to explode. So I pulled over. My son was following me so I had him run to the parts store to grab a new regulator. Swapped it out but now it just sits at 12 and will not go up any in fact it stays at 12 even if I have the regulator unplugged ??? What does this mean is my battery junk ?? I charged it before picking up the car but at the end of the year my battery was acting strange. In fact when I went to start the car to take it to the storage unit it was dead and had to jump it. I am absolutely horrible when it comes to electrical any help would be appreciate. I don’t know is the battery bad. Is my new regulator junk ???? Help
 
#4 ·
Always a great idea to do a full systems check and a full inspection before and after winter storage. Our brains tend to forget little vital details until the first warm day cruise. Most problems can be fixed the first few months of winter or until it gets to cold to work comfortably and then you are ready to roll in the spring.

Glad it was super simple and at least you have a new regulator - hopefully solid state - in place on the job.

Brian
 
#5 ·
Hi
I bring up this old thread because I have exactly the same issue with my friends 67. He owns a very original 67 RS/SS.
We measure only 12V at the battery' even on high rpm. We changed to a new battery. Also voltage regulator is chaned with a new one and the same with the alternator.
No success.
69crush figured out a bad wire. Where, would be interesting? Anyone an idea where I should start searching?
Thanks
Daniel
 
#6 · (Edited)
Daniel, Check the wire from the alternator to the battery junction block. The block is mounted to the
radiator support between the battery and fender. Should be 12 gauge red. Could be bad connection there
or corroded.
Edit: the wire runs from the alternator to the horn relay buss bar and then to the junction block.
2nd edit: I believe there is a fusible link at the horn relay where it feeds to the battery junction block.
Comes off the horn relay as black wire wire then the fusible link to the red wire.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the answers.
The junction block is missing on this car. Looks like a previus owner modified it..... Unfortunately.
Sorry, but I don't understand "fusable link" ? What is this? I can't see a fuse at or near the horn relais.
Maybe a picture or similar would help? Sorry about my poor english....

Daniel
 
#10 ·
Yes, look at the link and post that Al shows. It's something I had answered a while back.

You might also think about getting a volt meter to where you can check things. For instance, the voltage regulator plug has one wire that should show battery voltage, a different one that should show voltage when the key is in the run position, and then the other two go to the two wire connector plug on the back of the alternator. If your volt meter also be switched to be able to check resistances, then you can do further checks on the wiring.

Sometimes too, I have seen a bad voltage regulator and then just from unplugging the connector a connection get's broke or fails to connect into the new regulator and you then have to track down another issue.

Jim
 
#11 ·
Thank you very much.
Yes, this post at #18 helped me a lot. I understand now.
Perfect.
Yes, I have two voltmeter where I can start searching. Will do this over the weekend.
As I wrote, unfortunately, the wiring isn't original anymore and I may have to open some insulation tape to see what is going on.
I keep you updated.

Daniel
 
#12 ·
I replaced mine with a solid stay regulator. It could just be your regulator. I put the original Delco cover on it. No problems after that.
 
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#13 ·
Well, well, it works again now, but I have no idea why!
On low RPM I measure between 15V and 16V at the battery. On higher RPM the same. Looks OK now.
I just remove the red and black wires from the horn relay to do some measurement. But it back on, and surprise, surprise it is working.
Maybe there was a bad connection, but the screw where tighten strongly. Anyway, let's see for the next season how long it will work. Thank you for all your inputs!
Greetings from cold Switzerland.
Daniel
 
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