Alternator died, now no power at all - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 19, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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Alternator died, now no power at all

Thanks for the help everyone. Here's my problem.

I have a 69 SS350 thats was completely rewired with an American Autowire kit in 2015. The ignition is a Mallory 6A wired to an HEI distributor. The coil on the distributor has been bypassed for the Mallory.

A few weeks back, I was sitting in the car idling. The car shut off by itself. I jumped it and it ran for about a minute and then died for good. Typical alternator issue right. Well, yes. The alternator was dead. I replaced it. Problem is, I have no power at ignition. I have lights, dash, interior etc. But when i turn the key, I get nothing.

I replaced the ignition tumbler in the column a few weeks back so it's brand new. The ignition switch was replaced when the AAW kit was installed. All the fuses check out fine. The fuse block has power.

Could the alternator going out have fried the Mallory 6A? Could it have fried something else I'm not thinking of?

Thanks again everyone.

robe9000
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'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 19, 11:43 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Check the neutral safety switch. If that's good check for power at the starter solenoid when the
key is turned to the start position. If that's good the solenoid is probably toast. If no power at
the solenoid check incoming power to the ignition switch. Keep checking back up the line until
you find the fault. An electrical diagram will help.

Al

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 19, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Thanks @allanjs!
I did test the starter but bypassing the solenoid but I did not test the solenoid.

robe9000
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----------------------------------------
'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Jun 11th, 19, 01:40 PM
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

I can't remember, does the 6A have an internal or inline fuse? Did you check that fuse? Also check your battery. Sometimes when your alternator goes it takes the battery with it or does some internal damage that doesn't show up for a few months.

AKXtreme
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M20 4spd
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 19, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Well it’s been a while but I finally got around to this electrical problem again. I pulled the starter and bench tested it and it checked out fine. Traced the wires back to the neural safety switch and sure enough, like you guys said, it was bad. No volts coming out when the key turned. Replaced it. Now, I’ve decided to fix an issue I’ve been dealing with a long time- heat soak on my solenoid. I’m trying to find a heat shield that will fit my Summit Mini Torque starter and cant seem to find one that fits. Any suggestions or experience?

Also, have you guys got any suggestions about clocking the starter. I was thinking I’d try to clock the solenoid away from the header to help with the problem but I can’t seem to get it to fit any other way. Anyone have that starter that might have it mounted different than I do?

Thanks again guys!

robe9000
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----------------------------------------
'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 19, 09:52 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Rob, You can install a remote solenoid. Here's a link explaining it.
https://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

Al

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 19, 10:25 AM
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Quote:
Originally Posted by allanjs View Post
Rob, You can install a remote solenoid. Here's a link explaining it.
https://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm

This is what I did as headers kept killing my solenoid.. Picked up a turd, I mean ford solenoid and mounted it to the inner fender. Rerouted wires accordingly and haven't had a starting issue in years.

Brandon J. licence 1NASTY67

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 19, 08:53 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

The chance of a heat shield solving your issue is slim. The 30A relay shown on the novaresource page is a much cleaner and simpler install than the nasty looking Ford solenoid and works just as well.


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 19, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Any chance you’d have a link to that article on the Nova Resource page? How’s it work?

robe9000
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'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 19, 08:23 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Quote:
Originally Posted by robe9000 View Post
Any chance you’d have a link to that article on the Nova Resource page? How’s it work?
Rob, The link is in my post above. Post #6.

Al

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 19, 05:52 AM
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Here you go.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 19, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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New question: is there any way to adjust a 69 floor shift neutral safety switch (horseshoe style shifter)? The car starts fine in neutral. Doesn’t start in drive and my hunch is that the switch isn’t fully engaged when it’s in drive. I’m hoping you fellas know if there’s a way. My initial thought might be to move the switch forward or back using some washers on the mounting screws. Thoughts? Is there another way? Thanks as always.

robe9000
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----------------------------------------
'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 19, 09:18 AM
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

The switch has slots for sliding forwards & backwards.
Loosen nuts and adjust away.

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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 19, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Ok - sorry for the absence. The older I get the less time I have to work on the car - sadly. So, I checked the neutral safety switch and of course it was bad. Replaced it, put in a starter heat shield and the car started up and ran great. I Yes, I said "ran." But, thanks for all the help. At least I think i've fixed my electrical problem.

Drove the car for about 2 weeks, ran great, then at about 70 mph on the highway, it shuts off. I coast to a stop and thank God I'm alive. I pulled the fuel line and it seemed dry so I theorized that my fuel pump might be bad. But, then after I got the car towed home, I inspected it more and noticed that the fender ground on the battery was totally fried. I replaced it. The car will crank but still won't start. I put on a new fuel pump, still no start. I'm planning to blow the fuel lines out this weekend to make sure there's no gunk in there and try again to start it.

All that to say this, is there something I'm missing? I suppose I need to check spark, vacuum and fuel delivery to rule them out. But that fried fender ground has me confused. I also suppose that might lead you to tell me I need to check my grounds. But, would a bad ground allow the car the crank?

End all be all, I have a car with a new fuel pump, haven't checked the lines, don't know if I have spark or vacuum leak. Is there something simpler it could be?

As always, you guys are awesome and thanks for the help.

Rob

robe9000
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'69 SS350 Cortez Silver • Black Stripes
New TH350, 383 Vortec Stroker, E-brock 178 cc Aluminm Heads
E-brock Air Gap Manifold, Mallory, Holley yada yada

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 19, 05:01 PM
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Re: Alternator died, now no power at all

Quote:
Rob, You can install a remote solenoid. Here's a link explaining it.
https://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
Somehow that diagram does not work for me. Stock goes batt + to Solenoid +.
With remote solenoid hot from batt and hot to starter on the same terminal does not really do much at least in the trunk mounted battery. Did I miss something?
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