Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 05, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

I have a stock 350/300 hp with a Mallory unilite distributor without the vacuum advance. I have a edelbrock Q-Jet 1401 with remote choke.
I have to run the timing at 0 degree TDC, to make it start decent.
I have had a heat problem in the past and from all I have read, advanced timing will make it run cooler.

The total vacuum at the manifold port is 14" to 15", but by advancing the timing up to 4 - 6 degrees BTDC, I can get the vacuum reading up to steady 20". It cranks good right after killing it but I let it set for a couple of minutes, it will crackback a couple of times before it starts.
I would like to run it there or a little higher. I had raced NHRA GS/A 69 camaros in the past and had this vacuum-less distributor left over.

Is there any alternative to having to buy a new distributor to get the benefits of vacuum advance?

I am not totally sure my battery is not a problem; it has been charged to death in the past and has set for years. Currently it shows charged at 13 volts on the surface. I will check the cells next.

Total street machine only.

1969 Camaro Z-11 Pace Car
350cu/300HP -
Convertible RS/SS- Muncie M20 - posi 3.31, 12 bolt
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 05, 04:44 PM
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

do a load test on the battery for sure, but it sound slike standard chavy starter heatsoak to me. do a search on that.

You might also check the accuracy of your timing marks... never heard of a motor that would even idle decent at zero degree's, nor one that wouldn't crank at six.





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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 05, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

thanks for the reply;

I had not thought of the marks being off, but possible could be. I will locate TDC later this week.
I use a starter solenoid for the wiring to the starter, so I don't think the heat is a problem.
I don't have anything to load test the battery, but I think it is probably low on the cranking amps. After charging it up to 13 amps, I still only get a 50/60% of charge; overnight it drops to 25% of charge...

1969 Camaro Z-11 Pace Car
350cu/300HP -
Convertible RS/SS- Muncie M20 - posi 3.31, 12 bolt
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 05, 08:46 AM
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

A quick battery check can be done with a voltmeter across the terminals while cranking. If the voltmeter reads below 9.5 volts, consider replacement battery.

It reads like your present battery may have seen better days, since you stated it can only recharge to 60%. A specific gravity check will indicate this condition. The lowest it should read is 1.230, the best being above 1.240.

This should help eliminate hot start condition.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 05, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

I think your right on the battery. I was not sure what the volt meter should tell me on the battery under load. I will try that first...

Your 68 sure looks mean coming off the line.

I miss the days when I ran NHRA GS/A.
I ran a 255 hp glide 1969 Hardtop.
Best time at a Dallas Regional was a 11.71 / 113.20; at that time on a 12.20 index. When I get a website, I will send some pics.

Its a wonder what can be done to a "stock" camaro.

Thanks again

1969 Camaro Z-11 Pace Car
350cu/300HP -
Convertible RS/SS- Muncie M20 - posi 3.31, 12 bolt
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 05, 03:51 PM
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

A DVM or analog voltmeter is used to measure and an assistant at the ignition switch with a disabled ignition so the engine does not start. Do not rely on a dash gauge.

Just hook up meter across battery posts and crank for 10-15 seconds with the throttle wide open. If at any time the battery voltage goes below 9.5 volts, then consider the battery haqving served its useful life.

If a battery checker is used, the type with the resistor and big clamps to hook to the posts, then press the button on the meter for 15 seconds. If its in the red zone, below 9 volts, consider the attery having served a useful life.

Thank you for the complements. I've always wanted to run Super Stock, but, billfold is really thin to support the many parts needed to match just to get a good set of matched items. Stock is alittle more lenient, but, not by much.

Your 11.71 on 12.20 index is respectable. Nothing to laugh at, theat's for sure. Always looking to lose a pound or ten, or another hp or 100.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 05, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

Wouldn't you know it, the draw on volts while cranking went down to 10 and held steady. At battery, still on 12 volts.
I cranked at the starter solenoid with a remote, I don't think it would have drawn more at the ignition.

Percent of charge on the battery charger is still at 40%.

Still thinking it is the battery.

Might have to check for a dead cell.

1969 Camaro Z-11 Pace Car
350cu/300HP -
Convertible RS/SS- Muncie M20 - posi 3.31, 12 bolt
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 05, 04:34 PM
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

Yeah......I gotta question the timing marks too, but simply pulling the coil wire when it doesn't want to start will tell you something. If it then cranks real easy, then timing could be an issue in some way. Some timing marks on certain balancers can be off due to their use on different applications. Ya gotta figure it out.

But, if the battery will take a full charge to 12.65 volts (which is full charge) there is nothing wrong with it or it would not get that high!

And......it sound like a few more degrees is where you should be. Regardless of remote solenoid, that is just half of the issue for "heatsoak" because you have literally thousands of feet of copper wire in the starter itself and IT WILL HEATSOAK TOO. So, I suggest a new mini starter and dump the remote solenoid, but no biggy if you want to continue to use.

On the vacuum advance issue. You ALWAYS want to run VA on a street application. Better throttle response and cooler running. Plus, if you had full time VA on this application you could run a pultry indicated "0 degrees" and still have 10 or more at idle with 20" of vacuum to boot. You can see the advantages already?

See this thread on VA and my comments.... https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56031

Steve "Jack'stands" Jack

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 15th, 05, 05:51 PM
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Re: Distributor w/o vacuum advance problem.

Totally agree with Jack on the vacuam advance.

Another possible issue is the solenoid on the starter. This thing is basically a big relay, and they go bad, and they sometimes don't work right when hot. In fact, the solenoid is often the total solution to a "hard starting when hot problem" If you replace it, geta genuine delco part, the parts store stuff is junk. You can also take it apart and file and clean the contacts inside.





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