Re: need electrical help
A deal that is to good to be true usually is. Was this car from the gulf coast by any chance? Salt water does interesting things with circuits, especially printed circuits like in the radio and behind the dash. You haven't mentioned the computer control circuits so I am going to that assume no news is good news.
When you start popping 30 amp circuits we are talking serious, flaming spectacular, (usually noticeable) shorts. I would look for a pinched wire in around were the fender bolts to the cowl. Mater of fact you may want to remove both inner and outer fenders not only to access the wiring directly, but look for impact damage that may have damaged the wiring (the ever unmentioned "hidden damage"). Similarly seats and carpet are "easily" removed (it can be accomplished with simple hand tools, but no one enjoys it).
As I mentioned immersion in water (even fresh water) causes corrosion and unwanted ground paths for current looking for a short cut back home. If while poking around in the car's interior you find evidence of mold or non-OEM interior trim (Sears, our cheapest, rugs, etc.) I would become suspicious.
Not the end of the world on a bargain priced car; and it is better to know now, before corrosion gets out of control. Bad news is '95 is long in the tooth for bone yard you picks. Though Painless and others offer quality wiring harnesses, they are neither cheap, nor as model specific as one would like for the kind of money they charge.
Hopefully you have a digital multi-meter and are familiar with how to use it. Further, when testing problems as you describe, I recommend that you crimp up an amp range specific circuit breaker (one for each range in the circuit box) to replace the use of fuses. The new style wafer fast blow fuses will continue to pop faster than you may be able to isolate a circuit. I would also check on knee pads, you may be looking at this for a while.
Good luck and good hunting