need electrical help - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 06, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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need electrical help

I JUST BOUGHT A 95 Z28 FOR $500.00 WITH ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. SOME I HAVE FIGURED OUT. OTHERS I'M HAVING PROBLEMS WITH. WHEN I PUT A 30 AMP RECOMMENDED FUSE IN MY FUSE BLOCK FOR THE HORN AND CIGAR LIGHTER THE FUSE INSTANTLY BLOWS. ALSO THERE WAS NO DOME LIGHT BULB IN THE DOME WHEN I GOT THE CAR. THE WIRE FOR THE LIGHTS ON THE REAR VIEW MIRROR WAS UNPLUGGED SO I PLUGGED IT IN AND THE LIGHTS STAY ON WONT TURN OFF I PUT A BULB IN THE DOME AND IT BLEW THE FUSE. ALSO THE DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ROLLS DOWN AND UP GOOD BUT SOMETIMES IT STOPS HALF WAY AFTER A FEW MIN. IT WORKS AGAIN. WHEN CHANGING THE OIL I NOTICED A BROKEN GROUND STRAP ON DRIVERS SIDE OF BLOCK GOING TO THE FRAME. COULD THIS BE MY PROBLEM. IF NOT WHAT IS THIS STRAP FOR. ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 06, 03:54 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: need electrical help

I had a similar screwy problem like this with a 69 Chrysler 300. (worst car I ever owned). Turned out to be wires melted together behind the fuse block. Electrical problems are the worst. Not saying this is it but hey ya gotta start somewhere. Good luck!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 06, 05:09 PM
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Brad Cushman
 
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Re: need electrical help

Try unplugging the lighter and replacing the fuze. I had a bad lighter housing a few months back that was doing the same thing.

Brad Cushman
'67 SS/RS
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 06, 08:06 PM
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Harley D
 
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Re: need electrical help

Sounds like you got a great deal. Even considering the current issues. Look through the entire wiring harness for HACKING. Also look for possible shorts and melted pinched wires. Start with the circuits that are giving you fits. Yes fix that ground.


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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 06, 02:12 PM
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Dave
 
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Unhappy Re: need electrical help

A deal that is to good to be true usually is. Was this car from the gulf coast by any chance? Salt water does interesting things with circuits, especially printed circuits like in the radio and behind the dash. You haven't mentioned the computer control circuits so I am going to that assume no news is good news.

When you start popping 30 amp circuits we are talking serious, flaming spectacular, (usually noticeable) shorts. I would look for a pinched wire in around were the fender bolts to the cowl. Mater of fact you may want to remove both inner and outer fenders not only to access the wiring directly, but look for impact damage that may have damaged the wiring (the ever unmentioned "hidden damage"). Similarly seats and carpet are "easily" removed (it can be accomplished with simple hand tools, but no one enjoys it).

As I mentioned immersion in water (even fresh water) causes corrosion and unwanted ground paths for current looking for a short cut back home. If while poking around in the car's interior you find evidence of mold or non-OEM interior trim (Sears, our cheapest, rugs, etc.) I would become suspicious.

Not the end of the world on a bargain priced car; and it is better to know now, before corrosion gets out of control. Bad news is '95 is long in the tooth for bone yard you picks. Though Painless and others offer quality wiring harnesses, they are neither cheap, nor as model specific as one would like for the kind of money they charge.

Hopefully you have a digital multi-meter and are familiar with how to use it. Further, when testing problems as you describe, I recommend that you crimp up an amp range specific circuit breaker (one for each range in the circuit box) to replace the use of fuses. The new style wafer fast blow fuses will continue to pop faster than you may be able to isolate a circuit. I would also check on knee pads, you may be looking at this for a while.

Good luck and good hunting
Larger Dave
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 06, 02:23 PM
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Location: Austin, TX, USA
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Re: need electrical help

Here is how to find the short. Install a test lamp in series with one of the battery cables. Alternatively, you could insert the test lamp in place of the fuse. The lamp should burn bright due to the short circuit, but the lamp bulb will limit the current to a safe level.

Once the lamp is installed and lit, start disconnecting portions of the circuit until the lamp goes out. This will allow you to narrow down the source of your problem safely. If you disconnect something and the lamp dims, but doesn't go out, make a note of what you just disconnected and keep isolating things until the lamp goes completely out.

Dave
========================
68 Coupe, 350 w/ Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, cam, intake, 700R4, Dave's small body HEI
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 06, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: need electrical help

THANK YOU FOR ALL THE GREAT INFO. I AM GOING TO BEGIN MY JOURNEY TONIGHT . I WILL POST IF I FIND ANYTHING. AS FOR THE CAR IT WAS BOUGHT NEW BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER SON IT HAS BEEN IN THE MIDWEST SINCE NEW.IT RUNS STRONG. IT HAD TRANS PROBLEMS ALSO BUT THAT IS TAKEN CARE OF. AGAIN THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 06, 06:08 PM
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Scott
 
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Re: need electrical help

Wiring gets easier every time you work with it. And hey, if you take have the interior apart, at least you can clean it and put it back in tighter & rattle free!

AND STOP YELLING! (all caps is considered yelling here in the ole interweb)

Scott from NJ. Stay thirsty, my friends


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