AMP Gauge - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 06, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
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AMP Gauge

Have a 67 RS Convt automatic with console and gauges. Prior owner butchered harness and is VERY dificult to follow, let alone most wires are black now.

AMP gauge in console has never worked. I have replaced gauge and still no luck. Unable to trace wiring as mentioned above. I'm not at a point I want to replace the entire harness. But I am willing to run new wires from Amp gauge to wherever they should go to.

Where would I run those wires to?

Thanks in advance,

John
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 06, 09:00 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Smile Re: AMP Gauge

Do not hook up the amp gauge it is unsafe it could cause a fire not to mention it does you no good go out and get a volt meter and follow the enclosed instructions.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 06, 09:15 AM
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Mark
 
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shrewsbury, MA, USA
Posts: 6,509
Re: AMP Gauge

It is a volt meter with amp markings. It gets connected to the terminal post infront of the battery (or the positive terminal of the battery), and to the terminal on the horn relay where the red charging lead from the battery lands. It actually measures the voltage drop in the charginw wire and uses the resistance of the red charging wire as an external meter shunt. Make sure you add a fusible link to the end of each wire in the engine compartment near where it connects. Test the connections before cutting the wires to length. Connect the wire to the locations above, and turn the headlights on with the car off. If the meter deflects down scale (discharge) you have connected them correctly, if it goes upscale (charge) swap the connection points in the engine compartment.

Mark Canning
1969 Indy Pace Car
350/300HP RPO Z11

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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 06, 09:14 AM
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Re: AMP Gauge

Just get a volt meter

Which is better for monitoring a vehicle's electrical system - a Voltmeter or an Ammeter?

Short answer:
A voltmeter, by far.

Electrical guru Mark Hamilton of M.A.D. Enterprises points out that amperage is a measure of current flow, so an ammeter is actually a "flow meter" that's intended to measure current flow to the battery (under normal conditions) or discharge from the battery (in the case of alternator system failure). On a typical flow meter, all output must be directed through the device to obtain an accurate reading. In the ammeter's case, that means all the alternator output used to recharge the battery must first be routed through the ammeter under the dash. Which requires a heavy-gauge cable and presents a possible fire hazard. And the ammeter itself must be able to handle all this current flow, so it must have a higher current rating than the alternator's maximum rated output.

All this might be worth the hassle if the ammeter produced reliable information. But the ammeter can only measure the amount of current output to the battery for recharging purposes: When the alternator recharges a "low" battery, the ammeter indicates a high charge rate; with a fully charged battery the voltage regulator reduces alternator output, and the ammeter is supposed to indicate a very low charge rate. But how can you really tell the regulator has reduced alternator output because the battery is fully charged? Maybe a diode in the alternator rectifier failed, or the alternator belt slipped after it warmed up, just as if the battery were fully charged. Or maybe the meter indicates a medium charge rate most of the time-does the battery want this much or could the voltage regulator be overcharging the battery?

On the other hand, a voltmeter works like a fuel pressure gauge-but instead of measuring fluid in psi, the voltmeter measures electrical system pressure in volts. Just like a fuel pressure gauge, a voltmeter only needs to tap into a circuit; all the fuel (or electricity) does not have to detour through the gauge itself. Voltmeter installation is easy, quick, and safe: It hooks up to a fused, ignition-switched "off/on" source and does not require any modification of the circuit used to recharge the battery or any part of the alternator/regulator system. In short, the voltmeter installed at the dash will be a stand-alone circuit.

The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 14.0 to 14.5 volts-and this is reported directly by the voltmeter. In the event of alternator-system failure, voltage will be low and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an "overcharge" condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone. In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter's readings as can happen with an ammeter.


Voltmeter vs. Ammeter?
Auto Meter offers both, but for most applications a voltmeter yields a safer installation while providing more useful information on charging-system conditions.
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