68Z Temp & Volt gages not working - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old May 13th, 06, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

I finally got the nerve to take the cluster apart, thinking that maybe the leads were disconnected on the back of the gauges. Nothing was disconnected. Any ideas on why both would be workings? All the lights in the instrument cluster work fine, and the gas & oil work great. The low fuel light evens works great. I looked at the fuse box and all the fuses seemed to be okay.

Any ideas on why both gauges would be broken? When I bought the car, I thought they were working, as they were sitting in the right spots for when the car is warm / running!

The backup lights are also not working, but I think that is not related, and I plan on putting a hurst shifter w/new hurst backup light switch, so hopefully that will be taken care of....

Any ideas???

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old May 13th, 06, 01:15 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Get a wiring diagram...there are some in other posts here
Check the earths..the earth wires may not even be there.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old May 13th, 06, 06:44 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Chedderboy, your car should have a amp gauge, not a volt gauge if its original. Post back on what you have. For the temp gauge, with the key on, disconnect the sender wire, gauge should peg to "C". Next groud the sender wire to a good ground, gauge should peg to "H". If it passes this test, gauge is good and problem is at sender, If it fails, problem is either power, ground or a connection in the temp gauge circuit, or the gauge itself.

Greg U

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old May 13th, 06, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Here's a picture of the cluster:


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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old May 13th, 06, 11:38 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

What you have is the factory amp gauge. The gauge is really a centered millivolt gauge and reads the voltage drop on the battery charge wire. The wiring has to be factory for the amp gauge to work properley. To test the gauge, with the key on but engine not running, start turning everything on in the car. Start with the highbeams, the gauge should move towards the discharge side. The more you turn on, the more it should read discharge. Now leave the highbeans on for 10-15min, then turn everything off and start the engine and run it at a fast idle, the gauge should move towards the charge side, as the battery gets charged by the alternator, it should move slowly back towards the center. Now the test above just make a amp gauge thats works correctly move a little more than it normally would. Normally you don't see a lot of movement from the amp gauge as it only supposed to show the batterys charge rate. With the engine running and a fully charged battery, the gauge will normally stay about where it is in the pic. If you are getting no movement, first check the wiring. The amp gauge has 2 leads, a black which ties in at the junction block by the battery and a black/white which ties in at the 4 way splice on the drivers side fender. See pic



With both of them disconnected from the gauge, test each of these leads for power with a test light or a meter. If either or both of the leads don't have power you will have to trace the wires to find out why. They could have a blown fusible link, someone cut them , poor conection at firewall bulkhead ect... to test the gauge itself, leave the wires from the car to the gauge disconnected and run 2 test leads off the gauge to a AA battery. touching the leads to the AA battery should make the gauge show full scale in one direction, reverse the leads and it should show full scale in the other direction. Only leave the leads connected to the AA battery for a second or two. If you have other questions post back.

Greg U

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

I'll take a gander at it today.

When I was checking out the temp sender last night, I noticed a orange wire that was cut and not attached to anything! Before I bought my car, I had the shop replace all the RS hoses and also install a muncie shifter. They also had to fix the passenger side RS light door. I'm wondering it they cut it in the process... I'll post a pic to see if anyone has any idea what is cut.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 10:46 AM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Undee72Z has been helping me with the same type of thing. You mentioned your back up lights are not working now? I know it shares the same fuse as the gauges.

Most recent 01/01/10


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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

The odd thing is that the console lights, fuel and oil do work.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working




It looks like somebody hacked the amp gage to fix something else. If I'm reading the above post correctly, the hacked black&white wire should be going into the 3rd position on the 4x plug in. The more I look at this, the more upset I get. All of the wiring on the car is fairly perfect, except for this hack job. I guess my next question is.... what is the thick red wire for? RS actuator? I'm guessing it's that because the shop I used fixed the right RS cover before I accepted delivery. Dang.

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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 02:05 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

In the first pic, that is one of the wires for the amp gauge. Amp gauges had fusible links and the round cylinder is the connection to the fusible link. The actual fusible link is the the wire after the round cylinder. Looks like it was cut Look to see if you can find the other end, it might be up in the loom near the 4 way splice. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chedderboy
the hacked black&white wire should be going into the 3rd position on the 4x plug in
No.
The 2nd pic shows the voltage regulator and the horn relay. Of the 2 10g red wires (thick wires) they come from the 4 way splice. One is going to the voltage regulator (which also has a fusible link) , the other to the horn relay. If you study the pic i posted it should become clear. The fusible link for the voltage regulator is not shown in the pic I posted. The cut amp gauge wire should go near the 4 way splice. You may need to open up the loom to to find the other end. One question is why was it cut in the first place?

Greg U

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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

OK, I'll check it again. This is the way I bought the car, so it's hard to say. Overall, the car has been unmolested and the rest of the wiring looms are undisturbed.

In the second picture, there is a huge red wire which connects into a orange wire w/ the round part. Should the black/white wire being connecting here?

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 03:03 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

You wont have elec power to headlight accuators, they are vacuum controlled. Get the AIM manual, it has wiring diagrams in it to follow thru and restore the right wire to the right terminal.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old May 14th, 06, 03:09 PM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Quote:
Originally Posted by chedderboy

In the second picture, there is a huge red wire which connects into a orange wire w/ the round part. Should the black/white wire being connecting here?
I believe no. That wire is for the voltage regulator. You should be able to tell where the other end is for the cut amp gauge wire by where it will reach. There was only 3-5 more inches of wire past the round cyl. It should be near the 4 way splice. Thats where the thick reds go in the loom.

Greg U

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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 07, 09:34 AM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Quote:
Originally Posted by undee72Z View Post
In the first pic, that is one of the wires for the amp gauge. Amp gauges had fusible links and the round cylinder is the connection to the fusible link. The actual fusible link is the the wire after the round cylinder. Looks like it was cut Look to see if you can find the other end, it might be up in the loom near the 4 way splice. Be sure to disconnect the battery first.


No.
The 2nd pic shows the voltage regulator and the horn relay. Of the 2 10g red wires (thick wires) they come from the 4 way splice. One is going to the voltage regulator (which also has a fusible link) , the other to the horn relay. If you study the pic i posted it should become clear. The fusible link for the voltage regulator is not shown in the pic I posted. The cut amp gauge wire should go near the 4 way splice. You may need to open up the loom to to find the other end. One question is why was it cut in the first place?
Where are the pics you're referring to? Thanks
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 07, 10:10 AM
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Re: 68Z Temp & Volt gages not working

Its over a year old post, guessing their site host doesnt have them anymore

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