67 rs-ignition removal/tip on headlight wiring
Hey guys! Newbee here. I'm just finishing installing a 383 and hoping to fire it today for the cam break-in. But, I appear to have a bad ignition switch. I know you have to use a paperclip to remove it but I'm not sure of how to do it. Does anyone know how to do this.
Something was intermittantly going on with my electrical before I pulled the motor. I just bought the car last July and the headlight doors did not work. They still had the original motors and switches. Anyway I got them working with aftermarket motors and switches and by jumping the 10 amp breaker on the relay panel. A couple of times after fixing the doors I had the ground wire that goes from the rad. support to the headlight relays get hot and actually smoke when I'd turn on the ignition. I repaired the wire and things seemed to work ok. After I put the 383 in I put the battery in and tested the electrical and things seemed to be ok except the headlight doors wouldn't close when I turned the ignition on and the starter wouldn't bump over When I tryed bumping the starter, nothing happened except a click. I tryed a few more times and guess what? The ground wire burned again.
I checked voltage everywhere and found only 6-7v at the starter in the crank position. I checked voltage at switch and found it to be the same so I assume that I have an ignition switch going bad.
Well, I pulled the relay panel back out, which is a real bird's nest, and started looking things over for a short to ground situation. As I looked at the bracket I found something very interesting. The large bundle of wires that comes from the fire wall junction has one of those little plastic t-clips that is taped around the wires that holds it into a hole on the relay bracket. Well, the spot where it's held, is on the back side of the welded in nut that is used to attach the relay panel to the fender. In other words, when you put the bolt in to attach the panel to the fender, it goes through the nut and right into the wire bundle. Great design, don't you think? It's even illustrated that way in the assembly manual. Anyway, I released the t-clip and pulled the wires away from the panel and found a hole where the bolt had gone through the tape and scuffed one of the wires. It was the wire from the ignition to the headlight relays which, I hope is why the headlight doors wern't closing. Wow! What a wild goose chase!
I don't know if the bolt that holds my panel on is original or not. I suppose it's poossible that it originally had a blunt bolt and not a sharp one and someone has changed it out at some time?
Anyway, sorry for the long story, but, I thought It might be worth mentioning in case someone out there just can't figure out why they keep tripping breakers and burning ground wires and such.
I do need help getting my ignition switch out if anyone knows.