Junction Block Needed? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 06, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Cameron
 
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Junction Block Needed?

I have the updated American Autowire complete harness in my 69. I don't see any mention of a Junction Block anywhere in the diagrams. I also don't know how my fuse panel is getting any power. Could it come from the red wire from the starter motor, or do I have to get a junction block and somehow get power to the rest of the car? I'd call AA, but it's the weekend and I'd love to figure this out before Monday. Thanks.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 06, 09:43 PM
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

See pic, junction block is near battery.


Greg U

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 06, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

Greg: Thanks for the quick response. But, my harness doesn't need a horn relay or voltage regulator, that's why I'm pretty sure it also doesn't need a junction block either. Is this possisble?

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 06, 03:41 AM
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

The junction block is just the point where the battery and headlamp harness join (with the horn relay, voltage reg and headlamp switch in between of course). Otherwise the auxillery positive battery lead would need to extend right over to the horn relay.

If your harness has no horn relay, then you don't need a junction block as it would be supplying the headlamps via another way, -I am assuming.

Nov 68 Van Nuys. 327 floor-shift-auto, Frost Green and not much else when new.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 06, 04:36 AM
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

Nice Ride!

I almost finished rewiring my entire 68' with the Autowire kit. I ended up using this kit as well, utilizing the best of both: http://www.madelectrical.com/newstuff/

This may be the way to go, and includes a kit for a newer 10si or 12si alternator w/int reg. It also includes 2 junction blocks - 1 for the drivers side firewall, one for the drivers side radiator support. It includes all the relays needed for hi/low beams on your headlights, as well as a relay for electric fans. I was able to mount the radiator support relays, & junction block in place of the horn relay & volt reg without drilling any holes!

I now have 80watt E-code headlights that work!

It also includes a relay for the starter. (I was able to "hide" it next to the battery) It prevents a constant "live" connection to the starter & you only need one wire to the starter.

Anyway, I now it will put you behind schedule, but it may be worth it. Mark from MAD will answer any questions at length.... It takes time to get the kit though. It was 1 week to ship & he only uses the post office.

I can post some pic's if it would be helpful. The Autowire kit is great, but is very vague about where the main feed wire connects. When I was researching the same problem you are having, that's how I stumbled acros the MAD site.

Some say to use the horn relay as a junction block even though you don't need it for the horn. I would think you could connect it to the starter.

Good luck
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 06, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

So, digesting all the good advice, it looks like American Autowire powers the fuse panel somehow through the starter motor, but there may be loss of voltage this way. The best way would be to add the MAD kit and get more juice. I will bug the AA guys in the morning and get their take. Thanks for all the great advice.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 06, 05:00 PM
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Jim
 
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

Quote:
Originally Posted by criddell
So, digesting all the good advice, it looks like American Autowire powers the fuse panel somehow through the starter motor, but there may be loss of voltage this way. The best way would be to add the MAD kit and get more juice. I will bug the AA guys in the morning and get their take. Thanks for all the great advice.
It's quite possible they could have the main power connected to the starter or you could wire it up directly to the battery.
If it's wired down on the starter the wire could be more easily shorted but if it was wired to the battery positive post you could easily add an inline fuse for protection. You could wire a fusible link also either off of the starter or the battery.
If you go to the remote solenoid route then you have to get your main feed for the harness either at the battery or at the end of the cable feeding the remote relay.
Personally I would go to the battery for power and add a nice properly installed and sized fuse inline. Should you ever want to work on the car you can simply pull that fuse and then everything wired to it will be dead.
There is always going to be a voltage drop due to connections and wire lengths. The less you have of one or both the less the VD (voltage drop). Wiring it at the starter compared to the battery would reduce the connection points by 2 ?. I doubt if that would be anything to write home about.
Jim

1974 Spirit Of America Nova (being restored), 1973 Nova Custom, 1968 Chevy II (Garage Find 2012)

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 06, 07:38 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Junction Block Needed?

Here is a basic overview of the MAD kit (from memory)

Junction block added at the drivers side firewall & drivers side radiator support. Heavy wire from the ALT to firewall block. Heavy wire from the Firewall block to the radiator block. Charging wire from the firewall block to the battery terminal on the new starter relay.

The AA harness power feed is fed from the firewall block.

The headlights (and electric fans if used) are powered through relays & the powered from the radiator support block.

I just completed the wiring job (Took MUCH longer then I thought it would - but it came out good) & drove my car for the first time this year about 1/2 hour ago. The headlights are incredible for a nearly 40 year old car!

I will try to post some pictures of the engine routing in the next day or two, depending on my work schedule.

Good luck,

Pete 68 427 Camaro
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 06, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

I spoke to American Autowire today. They assured me that I don't need anything other than what they supply. The positive battery cable carries power to the starter motor, and a heavy duty wire (I think 10 gauge) takes power from there to the fuse box. My alternator has an internal voltage regulator and sends power down a heavy cable to the starter and then back to the battery. They assured me there would be plenty of voltage for lights etc. (which are all powered directly from the fuse panel). They also stressed the fact that wires are heavier and shorter than original and that there are no old components in the system (remember, these cars are almost 40 years old). So, I'll wire it up as they recommend and see how it goes. Thanks for all your help, I'll let you know what I find when I power it up.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 06, 06:00 AM
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

You should not have any problems with wiring it like AA says. I use painless wiring and they supply a main fuse like 40/50 amps for main power. But with 2 fans, A/C, headlights and other accessories it blew the fuse when the A/C was turned on. I ended up supplying the fans power from the battery with a inline fuse and solved the problem. Also everything had relays. If you get a battery with the dual hookup, top post and side connection you can hook up another supply from the side connection then add a inline fuse to it.

Mike
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 06, 06:24 AM
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

The AA kit is pretty robust as far as wire size compared to stock, etc. You may still want relays for radiator fans http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml and the terminal blocks worked well for me (and allowed me to get rid of the uneeded horn relay. http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml

Also crimp & solder everything! I wouldn't just crimp connectors on my car - it's not worth the potential problems down the road. It's not much harder anyway. Crimp/solder/shrinkwrap for better then factory performance & appearence.

Good luck,

Pete
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 06, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Junction Block Needed?

Right on, I wired the fan relays direclty to the positive post of the battery so this won't draw any power. The only power needs up in the very front will be lights/doors and the horn. And yes, I'm soldering everything. Thanks.

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