Looking at converting to Petronix - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 06, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Looking at converting to Petronix

After having issues with the Mallory Unlite Distributor, Im considering going to the Petronix system at the recommendation of a fellow TC member.
I have some old distributors #1111150 , #1111483, #1111249, #1112844 and #1111152 so Im not sure which one to consider having rebuilt to use. What differences are there in various distribs?
Or should I buy brand new unit somewhere?
My car calls for #1111955

69 350 Qjet, a/c, auto. tranny.
Open to recommendations.

Click..is Jim..former owner of a 69RS-LM1 350/255 - 700r
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 06, 10:05 AM
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

I'll find out at home later, I have a 1974 Motors Manual and I'll look these numbers up then, unless another does it here.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 06, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

thanks Ev. I have Colvins book and I know what the old dist. came from but none are the engine combo I have, so just not sure what are differences in distribs? springs?weights? does it matter if electronic module is going to be used instead of points?

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 14th, 06, 02:27 PM
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

If you mail order it get a curve kit for the dist your going to use. Almost all S/BC point type dist are going to use the same one. This will get you new wieghts and springs and you can tune it to your engine and combo.

I have had a pertronix for years with no problems but keep point in a box in the car just incase. It's not an HEI so you just don't buy a part anyplace. Pertronix are popular though and more and more available. I think any point dist you have will be fine. Out of what you have look for shaft end play and shim it if needed to get most of it out. Make sure your roll pin is new or in good shape and so is your gear and bushings. You can take one apart and rebuilt/clean it up very fast. You will be happy with your pertronix. I run a ballest restior on mine because even the teck guy could not tell me if my coil was OK to use with it. It's an excel yellow 50,000 volt coil. Looks like a stock one only yellow witha brown cap. never had any issues.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 06, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

Happened across a dist. thats exactly the right number for my car according to Colvins book, ,#1111955. Is $100 too much for a used dist. that may need rebuilding? If its going to have a Pertronx kit in it, does it matter which dist. I use?

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 06, 01:57 PM
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

I haven't priced the conversion kit for the Pertronix lately, but I found a guy who sells the D100700 Pertronix dist for $189 complete. It's the one that look OEM without the point window. Cheapest elsewhere was $219. I got the Flamethrower distributor (D100700), 45,000V Flamethrower coil (#45011) and shipping for $232. Might be worth going new. Carshopinc.com

Dennis
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 06, 02:44 PM
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

click, it doesn't matter what distributor you use if you're going to stuff a pertronix in it. Pick the one with the tightest shaft and have at it. Either get a recurve kit, or send the distributor out to someone who can check it, rebuild it, and recurve it. Have them set it for 36 minus how much initial you run, all in at 3000 rpm. Then just drop it in.

Always a good idea to have a spare module.

The whole thing might be easier if you either:
a: get a new module for the unilite, install it, and keep the one we taped up for a spare (Cheapest optionO
or
b: Purchase an entire new aftermarket distributor of your choice, along with an extra module if you want the insurance.

I really can't see a big advantage to any of the 3 choices. I'd probably just fix the unilite, but it might be hard for you to trust it again!





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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 16th, 06, 02:56 PM
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Re: Looking at converting to Petronix

The difference in part numbers in Chevy point distributors has to do with the advance curve (mechanical & vacuum) which you should change anyway to match your engine. For what you are doing the part numbers should not make a difference.

Petronix has more than one unit to choose from for the Chevrolet V8. The Standard Ignitor (#1181) uses magnets to trigger the module. The Ignitor lobe sensing unit (#1181LSC) uses the lobes on the point cam to trigger the module. The lobe sensing unit is easier to install but the down side is that when you start your car you need to turn the ignition on and wait a few (4 or 5) seconds before you crank it up. This allows the unit to stabilize (magnetize?). The small waiting period is not necessary with the 1181 unit that has a ring with embedded magnets to trigger the module. The third choice is the Ignitor II (#91181) that changes the dwell electronically. The Ignitor II uses the same magnets and installion procedure as the standard Ignitor unit.

If you use one of the units with the magnet ring you will need shim the ring to provide between .010 to .060 inch clearance between the ring and the module. You will also need to add shims under the drive gear to remove most of the end play from the distributor.

Last month I installed the standard Ignitor (#1181) in my í67. The job took less than an hour. I am very pleased with the results. I chose this unit as it appeared to me to be more accurate than the lobe sensing unit and I was not sure if the Ignitor II would work with my tachometer.

I am running a stock coil with the resistor wire still in the circuit. The black wire from the Ignitor unit is hooked to the negative (-) side of the coil. The red wire from the module is hooked to the 12 volt ING connector on the fuse block.

Steve

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