Voltage regulator - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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Voltage regulator

My voltage regulator went on my 67 camaro. I had it replaced, now the "gen" light comes on in the dash, at idle and there is a humm coming from the voltage regulator. Both the light on the dash and the hmm goes away with acceleration and above-idle RPM's. Is the voltage regulator defective? Or something else.
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 04:27 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Any number of things could be wrong, though the greatest possibility is a bad regulator.

What was wrong with your original regulator? Why was it replaced?

This link includes basic electricity info, as well as an article on using a voltmeter to test the charging system
https://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71062





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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 04:27 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

It probably needs alittle more adjustment. since you've hooked it up, you probably cannot return it.

If you decide to get another reg, get a Wells p/n VR715. It looks like OE and is electronic. Works better than the mechanical type.

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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Voltage regulator

My car would drain the battery down when driven. I would drive to my dads, then have to re-charge the battery. This would only happen when I had the radio on. My mechanic checked the alt. but that was fine, he checked the voltage regulator and found it was bad, Got another one, and that makes the noise with the light. Right now I'm waiting for another new one, which comes in tommorrow, i'll put it in on Saturday
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 05:31 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

if you have an autozone nearby, they stock the wells vr715 reg that Everatt recommended. This is an electronic regulator that is a direct replacement for the mechanical one, bolts and plugs right in. It's 1/3 rd the price, to boot.

I highly recommend them too.





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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 05:49 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Make sure you're getting a good connection at the regulator. I went through about the same thing and it was driving me crazy. Turned out to be a corroded terminal on the connector. Not saying this is you're case but it's worth checking. Good luck.

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 06, 10:47 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

When mine played up some yrs ago I simply replaced the alternator with later model a self regulating one and stored the orginal away.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 06, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Voltage regulator

After installing the new regulator, and spraying contact cleaner in the connector
there was no difference, the regulator hummed and the generator
light stayed on at idle, but, when revved up, the light went out.
Then I shut it down, and could not re-start. Had to charge it back up, even though
the battery was reading 12.2 volts

So I started taking reading from the system:

Battery: while running 14.4 volts, running at idle=12.2 volts,--running at 2,000RPM’s=14.4 volts
Running at 2,000RPMs with alternator disconnected=12.9 volts

Alternator: while key turned on, engine off-8.97 volts---while running 9.2 volts ,that was with the alternator wire off the alternator, while running at 2,000 RPM’s= 9.8 volts

Regulator:

Blue wire: o volts with nothing on--Key turned, not running= 4.46 volts, Running at idle= 4.6 volts, reving at 2000 RPMs= 7.8 volts, reving w/ alternator disconnected=9.7 volts

Yellow wire: 0 volts w/ nothing on--Key turned, not running= 0volts----running= 2.1 volts Reving at 2,000 RPMs=4.7 volts, reving at 2,000 and alternator Disconnected= 0 volts

Orange ? wire: 12.11 volts w/nothing running, Key turned, not running=11.9 volts Running at idle=4.8 volts, revving at 2,000 RPMs=14.9 volts, revving at 2,000 and Alternator disconnected=12.7 volts


Other wire(color could not tell) 0 volts with nothing running, key turned, not running=4.5 volts, revving at 2,000 RPMs=14.9, revving at 2,000 RPMs and
Alternator disconnected=9.6 volts

With this info, is there someone who can figure out my problem
Thanks
Barry
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 06, 12:01 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Barry, you are getting some weird readings...

Low reading on blue wire... it tracks as it should, but is generally low.
White wire... same thing, tracking right but low.

Red (orange) wire... Puzzling... This one comes straight off the battery though a fusible link. It should NEVER read as low as 4.46v, yet your reading at 2000 rpm is normal.

Brown wire (4th regulator wire) This is the wire that turns the gen light on. Your readings are exactly what they should be (considering the gen light is on at idle.

I'm coming up with 2 possibilities.

#1: a bad connection on the red (orange looking) #4 wire on the regulator, possibly a corroded terminal or a bad fusible link.

#2: one blown diode in the alternator. An alternator with an open diode will test OK, but not deliver full amperage.





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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 06, 03:36 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

If those fuseable links are wiggly and weak on either end, the wires might be frayed inside. Mine were and new links and that new regulator cured my dimming issues.

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Voltage regulator

Sorry I screwed up, I said the reading on the orange regulator wire was 4.8 volts while running, but it was not....it was 11.8 volts.

Like I said I would run the car for a while, then put a load on it, (ie, radio w/amp) then shut it down. Then it would not start up again, like the battery was dead.
When this happened I put the meter on the battery it read 12.1 volts.
then I turned the key, without running and it read 11.6 volts
then I put the headlights on it read 11.1 volts
then the lights and the radio it read 10.9 volts
you think battery???

another test I did again was checked the alternator wires while the
car was running (previously all alternator numbers was when alternator unplugged)
While car running and alternator plugged in:
Blue wire read 4.8 volts
White wire read 2.0 volts
Maybe the alternator

I just got off the phone with my mechanic, I told him the replacing the regulator did not work, He's thinking Alternator or maybe the battery is not accepting a charge.
It goes back in the shop Wednesday to have it checked out.
But, I do not want to keep replacing parts that don't need replacing
any way of checking the battery charge potential or the alternator without
buying one??

How about those alternator reading?
Thanks
Barry
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 10:13 AM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry J
I just got off the phone with my mechanic, I told him the replacing the regulator did not work, He's thinking Alternator
Ah, but it does work - you've stated at 2000 rpm, charge voltage reads 14.9 volts -Good.
Quote:
or maybe the battery is not accepting a charge.
Put battery on an external battery charger and see if it does draw current while charging and holds a charge overnight. I bet it will.
Quote:
But, I do not want to keep replacing parts that don't need replacing any way of checking the battery charge potential or the alternator without buying one??
Ask the shop to check out the electrical system with either a VAT-28 or a VAT-40 tester. These two were considered the primo machines for checkout.

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Voltage regulator

I've charged it before, then It starts up. Then I drive it around with the radio on and then I bring it home or anywhere else then try to start it back up and nothing...dead.
Like I said the voltage regulator hums and then when I disconnect the alternator it stops.
I'm getting 4.8 volts on the blue wire going to the alternator while running....and getting 2.0 volts on the white wire going to the alternator while running.
After the car goes dead...the battery is still reading 12 volts when I put a meter on it.
My guess now is, it's probably the alternator
Any guesses??
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 01:42 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe
When mine played up some yrs ago I simply replaced the alternator with later model a self regulating one and stored the orginal away.
To adviod The problems above is the reason I did this...
Check the battery cells with a hydrometer...see if there is a dud cell(s) the battery could very well be damaged from the alternator/regulator now and will not hold a charge.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 01:52 PM
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Re: Voltage regulator

Quote:
I've charged it before, then It starts up. Then I drive it around with the radio on and then I bring it home or anywhere else then try to start it back up and nothing...dead.
After the car goes dead...the battery is still reading 12 volts when I put a meter on it.

Looking in a different direction, are you sure you don't have a heat soaked starter? Are you letting it cool off a couple hours? If the battery has 12 volts after shutting down it doesn't sound like a charging problem.

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