68 starter wires - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 06, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Smile 68 starter wires

I'm having problems with my 68. It was running, but started missing & then died all together. I thought it had run out of gas as the gauge was not hooked up. Put gas in and it still wouldn't start. I changed the points and set the gap, still no start. I then checked to see if there was power at the coil with ignition switch on, and there was not. I saw the wire coming out of the same loom that goes to the starter and traced those to the starter teminal. I noticed the wires at the starter were pretty crispy. and one wire running down there was cut. My question I guess is how many wires should be running to the starter. I have a large purple one, a small yellow one, and a medium size orange(this is the one that was cut). I do not believe now that this has anything to do with the ignition, but maybe it does. Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 06, 01:41 PM
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Re: 68 starter wires

Sounds like you have two problems. You should have power to the coil with the ignition switch on. Also, there are two power sources for the distributor; one is a resistor wire that comes from your switch. The resistor wire powers the distributor with the ignition switch on, but provides a reduced current so it does not burn up your points. The second power source for the distributor comes from the starter solenoid and is a full 12 volts, but only sends voltage while you are cranking the motor, to provide more spark for starting. I am not sure of the wire colors; perhaps someone else will chime in.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 06, 02:54 PM
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Re: 68 starter wires

The "main" power feed comes from the firewall bulkhead connector. It is a resister wire, skinny and covered in fabric insulation. If you have electronic ignition, this may have been replaced or bypassed, all bets are off as to what was used, but there should be a second wire (besides the yellow one) on the plus side of the coil, and on a 68 it should be hot with the key in start or run.

The other wire is the yellow one, and it works as described above.

The orange wire is the one that goes to the heater blower. If you have A/C, it is normal for this wire to be cut off and taped back into the harness. If you don't have A/C, I'll bet your heater don't work.





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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 06, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 starter wires

Thanks for the advice. My car did have A/C but I currently don't have the compressor or condensor in it. I'm planning on getting a different setup eventually and get rid of the big air box that came with the car. The orange wire was not hooked up, should I leave it that way? On the positive side of the coil I have the fabric covered wire. I did have electronic ignition, but have switched back to points. I'm thinking that I may be missing the resistor to cut the voltage down. I appreciate your assistance.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 06, 06:50 PM
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Re: 68 starter wires

The fabric covered wire is the resister wire, and it is exactly what you need if you run points.

That orange wire serves no purpose on an A/C car. The factory used the same engine harness on both, and that is exactly how they dealt with this wire on A/c cars, which have a separate option harness just for the A/C system.





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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 06, 01:24 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 starter wires

This is very helpfull. I don't see where the yellow wire is going. It is not attached to the coil. Is it's only purpose to boost power to the coil while the ignition is turned on. If so I can easily wire it that way. If it need to go elsewhere I can splice a lead from it to the coil. Wish there was a diagram that showed this whole set-up.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 06, 05:28 AM
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Re: 68 starter wires

The yellow wire runs from the other terminal on your starter (opposite where the purple one goes) back up to the coil. It only has power on it when the starter is engaged.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 starter wires

Ok everything is wired as advised. I used the idea of running the wires through flexible elec. conduit I saw in another thread, very slick. I now have power at the coil, have the yellow wire also to the + side of the coil, new points in and it still won't start. Points are gapped at.019. Could it be a bad condensor (didn't change that)?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 06:03 PM
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Re: 68 starter wires

You can "test" for a failed condensor by simply removing it.

do you have a voltmeter?

Take the cap off, and open the point, put a card or something between them. Then turn the key to run and check voltage at the + side of the coil, should be 12 volts. Turn the key to start and check again, should still be 12 volts (might want a helper there)

Note if the points are open, there should be no current flpw, therefore there will be no voltage drop, resister wire or not.

Check voltage on the - side of the coil, points open, s/b 12 volts.
points closed, s/b ZERO volts.

If the above test fails, you either have a bad coil or a short in the distributor. Take the wire(s) off the minus side of the coil and read voltage there key on, no voltage, bad coil.

If you have a tach, it's possible a fualt there could cause this, disconnect and test for voltage with point disconnected or open.





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