One wire alternator question - Team Camaro Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 06, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 134
One wire alternator question

Last weekend I put a rebuilt alternator in my 69 Camaro, I also moved it from the driver to passenger side. It was previously wired to the horn relay with one wire, then to the battery. I just ran a wire from the alternator to the battery.

The problem is now I got 0 volts from the alternator. Even at the alternator itself I get 0. I must have a bad alternator right? I'm thinking I need to run a power wire from the alt. to to the horn relay, then to the battery so I can keep my Gen light function.

Ideas?
jsabowabo is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 06, 08:48 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
Scott
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 4,192
Re: One wire alternator question

You probably killed it's trigger lead.

Read read read ---> http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Scott from NJ. Stay thirsty, my friends


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
...
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold
I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors


TC Member #13
BonzoHansen is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 06, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 134
Re: One wire alternator question

I read most of that madelectrical stuff yesterday. My understanding is that the one wire alternators require just that, one wire from the alt to the battery. No matter what with the alternator being spun, shouldn't the + termnial on the alt have power?
jsabowabo is offline  
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 06, 06:10 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 6,246
Re: One wire alternator question

If you have a wire directly from the alternator to the battery, you should have the same voltage at the alternator as you have at the battery. Have you tried replacing the wire with one directly to the horn relay? How many wires did your original alternator have? If your generator light was functional you must have at least had two wires.
onovakind67 is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 06, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 134
Re: One wire alternator question

It had two wires originally. The gen light did work. One ran from the the alt, spiced into a power wire, then to the horn relay, the other from the alt, spliced to the 1st wire, then to the batt. It was definitly rigged, but it worked.

I'll try wiring it up the way it was originally.
jsabowabo is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 11:29 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 153
Re: One wire alternator question

If you only have only ONE wire on the alternator to the battery or whatever, I believe that is incorrect. I borrowed an alternator from a friend to mount on my car that we were going to make a one wire and he said to make a small jumper wire connecting to the prong on the right (where the previous connector went on the top of the alternator) to where you connect the one wire on the back of the alternator. If this is confusing, I'll try to straighten it out some more, haha.
377camaro is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 11:55 AM
Gold Lifetime Member
Dennis
 
madmax87's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Arizona USA
Posts: 2,144
Re: One wire alternator question

Is this a true one wire alternator or just an internally regulated alternator. If it's just internally reg you need to run a jumper wire to get the field excited. There are a bunch of posts on the subject. Just do a search for 1 wire and it will show you how to hook it up.

Dennis
69 Z/28. 302DZ, Autogear M22, Red w/black stripes.
69 Camaro, ZZ4, 700R4, 8.5 3:42 posi, X11
70 Nova SS 396, 4sp, 3:55 12 bolt
madmax87 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 01:00 PM
Gold Lifetime Member
Harry
 
dawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Colebrook CT.
Posts: 4,043
Re: One wire alternator question

after you really look into the 1 wire alt it isnt that great.
if your running any kind of accesories itll fail you time and time again.
mad electrical has a good write up on the 1 wire versus 3 wire altenator.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

434 stroker
US Navy retired

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
dawg is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 06, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 134
Re: One wire alternator question

It's not a true 1 wire, just a regular internal reg. version that I'm making a one wire. Where does the exciter wire come from?
jsabowabo is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 27th, 06, 09:16 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 27
Question Re: One wire alternator question

This is so far the best RECENT posting I've found on one versus 3-wire alternators, so I'm going to post my plea for help with MY 1-wire alternator problems here. I've read a bunch of postings! I've also read the MAD Electrical articles on 1-wire versus 3-wire charging systems. They favor 3-wire, for sure. But I have yet to find a significant majority of opinions that favor the 3-wire if stock alternator dash (idiot) lights and wiring harnesses are NOT desired. On my '67 with a 350 engine, which I originally equipped with a 3-wire internally regulated unit, I tried the add-a-diode route as directed by some posts because I had the problem with the engine not turning off with the ignition switch. With the diode in-line, the engine would shut off alright, but the diode got so hot it melted the heat shrink I had over it and I was afraid I was going start a fire. Using after-market gauges and having no desire whatsoever to use the stock in-dash alternator light, I decided, as have a lot of owners, that a 1-wire was the way to go. So, I installed a 1-wire alternator, made sure I had good grounding connections between the battery and frame, firewall and engine. The voltmeter immediately registerd 14+ volts on the voltmeter after the engine started, but this reading lasted only 10 - 15 minutes into my drive, which was a combination of city & highway speeds. Then the voltmeter dropped down to just barely below 12 volts and there it sat while driving for the next 15 minutes. Then, the voltmeter shot back up to 14+ for around 5 minutes then it dropped back to barely touching the 12 volt mark on the voltmeter. I drove for another 20 - 30 minutes and the voltmeter never went back above 12. I got home and parked the car and shut her off. The engine would barely turn over when I tried to re-start. Suspecting that the battery was the reason I was not getting 14+ charging volts, although it was an Optima red-top battery that was only 7 months old. I pulled the battery and put it on an electronic charger and the initial reading was 11 point something volts and the "Per Cent Charge" digital readout was in the teens. On the charging mode, it eventually came up to a "100%" charge on the digital readout and I think the voltage readout was 14 point something. Could that have been right? I unhooked the charger, left the battery stand for 24 hours and then checked the voltage and it showed 12.6 - 12.7 and the "Per Cent Charge" readout was 95%. I don't know if this is normal, but at this point I do not suspect the battery to be bad. So, is my brand new 1-wire alternator now the culprit? I don't know what to try next, because I don't want to go back to a 3-wire because I do not trust the add-a-diode option and I do not really want to track down the dash light wire or go to an externally regulated alternator system, although I have read about an electronic external regulator from Auto Zone that works pretty good---so maybe that's what I'll be forced to do:waste the new 1-wire internally regulated alternator and hook up & re-wire for an external regulator.

Sorry for such a long posting, and if I sound frustrated and defeated, you're exactly right. As I stated earlier, I have scoured previous postings and have not found a complete answer to those who prefer a non-stock wiring and after market gauge (1-wire alternator) system over a 3-wire alternator (internally or externally regulated) dash-light system. And the MAD articles, prejudiced as they are against 1-wire systems (seemingly based on good science) seem to be defied by postings from owners who apparently are having good luck with the 1-wire alternators.

Any advice would be appreciated, especially if anyone has tried the 1-wire route and were forced to go back to a 3-wire system.
derisk is offline  
post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 29th, 06, 01:37 AM
Senior Tech
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pontiac IL
Posts: 453
Send a message via AIM to undee72Z
Re: One wire alternator question

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsabowabo View Post

The problem is now I got 0 volts from the alternator. Even at the alternator itself I get 0. I must have a bad alternator right?
When you test got zero volts, where was the ground probe at? onovakind67 is correct, you should have at least battery voltage at the alternator BAT terminal. Check the wiring and make sure the alternator is grounded to the engine. Usually this is not a problem, but a lot of paint on bolts or the alternator itself can cause this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jsabowabo View Post
I'm thinking I need to run a power wire from the alt. to to the horn relay, then to the battery so I can keep my Gen light function. Ideas?
With a 1 wire, the GEN light will not work.

Greg U

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Last edited by undee72Z; Sep 29th, 06 at 01:37 AM. Reason: spelling
undee72Z is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Team Camaro Tech forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address.
NOTE we receive a lot of registrations with bad email addresses. IF you do not receive your confirmation email you will not be able to post. contact support and we will try and help.
Be sure you enter a valid email address and check your spam folder as well.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1 Wire - 3 Wire Alternator Question redlines4us Electrical & Wiring 8 Jun 26th, 07 02:16 PM
1969 Camaro Firewall Wire Harmess Phillip_L Electrical & Wiring 3 Jan 23rd, 06 07:10 PM
PO 300 301 302 OBD II 3L 4P Bench Racing 9 May 6th, 05 08:02 PM
welding....need help 69ss350camaro Body Shop 3 Apr 3rd, 03 02:20 PM
Expanded MARTINSR Body Shop 11 Jan 15th, 03 02:57 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome