Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 06, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
 
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Question Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

I have what's left of a '67 RS convertible w/ 2spd Powerglide (was a 4spd Muncie). Definitely more of a project than I bargained for, given my limited skills. Was starting and running fine until I installed aftermarket RS headlight motors. After the install, took the car for a spin around the block, but when I stopped the car (car still in Drive), it died.

Have power to the red wires leading from the battery to the ignition switch (and through the horn relay). Replaced the ignition switch. jiggled the connection at the firewall and got the GEN light back on, but any attempt to start the car or activate any electrical system (headlights, wiper motor) causes everything to go out again.

Any ideas? Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 06, 05:55 PM
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

I'd check out the battery cables and the ground. If you have a bad connection it will do this as soon as you put a load on it.

When you say, you jiggled the connection at the firewall. Did you mean where the harness goes into the back of the fuse panel from the engine bay. That shouldn't be loose.

On the 67's the harness is clipped in w/a couple of plastic clips. If one of these is broken and the harness is loose, as soon as you his a bump, the connection can come undone and your car will die.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 06, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

Thanks Oakster. Battery cables are on tight, as is the ground (to alternator cover). Only one clip is left on the harness connector at the firewall behind the breaker, and it is definitely loose. Had someone hold it in place when there was a good circuit (GEN light on in the dash), but the circuit died once a load was placed on it.

Besides the ground wire between the battery negative terminal and the alternator cover, can you think of anything else that might be causing the dead circuit (assume the firewall harness connector is tightly in place).

BTW, kudos to Mark from Retro Electro for referring me to this site. You guys are awesome.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 06, 08:51 PM
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

there should be 2 wires on both battery cables, big and little. The big ones go to the motor (sdtarter and ground) and ONLY crank the starter. There should also be a little ground wire to the fenderwell, and a little power wire to the junction block behind the battery.

These smaller wires are what acturally run the rest of the car, and you'll find your bad connection somewhere in there. You'll need a cheap digital voltmeter to find it. Check out the sticky's at the top of electrical for details and pictures





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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 06, 06:40 AM
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

Just a thought - is the battery fully charged ?

Rick
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 06, 06:38 PM
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

The headlights are on a different circuit from the ignition. They should work regardless of what position the key is in.

If you are losing all power whenever you turn them on, I'd guess it is a really bad connection in the system or as Camaro67_rcl suggests a dead battery.

Do you have a good battery you can swap in to rule the battery out?

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 06, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

JIM M,

Battery is fine, fully charged. Only cable off of the negative terminal is the large gage ground to the alternator. Sounds like there should be another, smaller ground to the fenderwell? Will keep tracing wires and keep you posted. Thanks again for your help.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 06, 02:32 PM
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Re: Electrical Demons after 67 RS H/L Motor Install

The additional ground should be crimped into the negative battery cable. If it is missing you have a couple of choices. First would be to get a new negative cable with both ground wires attached. Second would be to run a separate ground from the block (where the main ground connects) to the RHS fender. The second option would look a bit hokie but should work in a pinch.

Dave
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