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Console Gauges Repo vs Original

2K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  RickD 
#1 ·
Hi All:
I'm in the process of securing all the parts (and money!) necessary to install a console w/gauges in my '68 automatic non-gauge car. The car was originally a column shift so I have no factory harnesses in the car for either the console or the gauges. My question is, assuming the price was equal, do you guys think I would be better off purchasing a set of the reproduction gauges or go with an original set of gauges?? Is there any difference when wiring either set (i.e.. - is one harder or easier to wire up than the other). I know the repo stuff has a bad reputation but I'm not sure if I want to trust 35 year old gauges either. Also, is thier a big difference in appearance between original vs repo. I don't need a concourse resto but do want to keep the original look.
What do you guys think????

D. Schribert
'68 Camaro Convertible
 
#2 ·
There should be no difference in installing either one, as long as you get all the correct wiring harnesses you will need. Originals in good working order and shape will cost you more, repo's to me look just as good, maybe some small differences if you are trying to go concorse. I just installed a set on a 69 and for the most part its easy, just takes some time to work out some bugs you may run into. Lots of great people here to help you through it though.
 
#7 ·
Some of the gauges like the mechanical oil pressure could be suspect if buying original. The main difference I see in appearance is the gauge face on the repros are too silvery. I replaced my amp gauge and transferred over the face from my original.
 
#8 ·
My .02 for what it's worth:

The Autometer gauge pod and gauges look really good, use Autometer gauges and are easier to read than stock gauges.

Whole package with wiring is less that $250.

Pics are in my sig.

Just depends on if you want an "original" look or something more functional.


joe
 
#11 ·
I had spoken to Rick's and they said they have gauge faces that are much better original looking and can do the swap when you order the repro's.
 
#13 ·
Your Welcome!

The Tac is very easy! When you remove the dash carrier (which is the hardest part) you will see an outline on the back of the carrier where you will need to cut out for the tach to fit in. Even has the out line for the bolt holes. A little tweeking with a file and your good to go. The wiring harness you order with the gauges has the proper plug already there. All you need to do then is run one wire in the engine bay which the wiring harness instruction sheet will tell you.
 
#15 ·
Thanks HO
I'll have to dig in and see what happens. One more question....the article you sent me mentioned a tool (that they said could be bought at Sears) to help remove/replace the wires in the junction box?? Do you have any idea what type of tool this is?? Did you need it for your conversion????
D. Schribert
'68 Convertible
 
#16 ·
No I did not get the tool, I just used a pair of needle nose pliers. You pinch the connector and push. They came out real easy.

If you send me your address again I will send you a copy of the instruction sheet that Rick's sends with the gauge kit. Should have sent it with the other article but did not think of it.
 
#18 ·
Whenever I've removed/replaced wire connectors, I use a small pick that will go into the slot and push the tab back so the connector will come out. Once you do one it's easy.
 
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