For me this was one of the worst jobs on my car. Don't forget to use a sealer on the
vent tube. I used duct seal.
Yes, it is one of the worst jobs and I knew it going in. I did use duct seal, as I knew once it popped into place there was no coming back out.
The rear of the vent tube has tall ridges molded in, they are for stiffness and to create water blocks. I trimmed them down a little to make fitting in there easier. I suggest trimming 1/4" off them and try install.
I thought about trimming down the tall ridges as an option but managed without trimming.
can you access the one bolt that holds the firewall electrical from under the car?
Then you could separate the 2 halves for clearance to stab the kick panel.
Good news is the PS is a piece of cake to install
I removed the light dimmer switch and the emergency brake pedal and dropped the brake cable out the bottom. The fuse box was fastened to the firewall with two 1/4" screws with washers and nuts on the firewall side. The nuts kept turning with the screws as I worked to remove it. The firewall side fuse box center screw was removed using a swivel socket and fortunately the fuse box split apart pretty easily. I reinstalled the inner fuse box using flange nuts on the engine side because they bite into the metal better.
I then got the kick panel popped into place. I found the five holes to secure it didn't align with the holes in the sheet metal so new holes are drilled. Now I have to reassemble everything. It shouldn't be this difficult to install this panel.
For anyone assembling one of these cars please know the very first thing you should do is install the driver's side kick panel. I guess you first should run any necessary wiring but it does go in early in the build.
I do expect the passenger side to be easier, which is one reason I did the driver's side first.
Anyway, thanks for letting me vent.