What por 15 products to buy? - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: San Bernardino, CA
Posts: 1,082

well i am interested in buying some por 15 to use on my new trunk floor, floor boards, and coat my frame. I was reading the july 2001 super chevy and they show you how to restore a trunk floor. i was wondering what you all used to seal your trunk floors? should i just buy the starter kit with silver paint and then use trunk spatter paint over it? also for my frame do i need all they metal ready and marine clean? should i buy a six pack of por 15 and all the cleaner on the side? also is there chassis coat black good? im confused help me out!

thanks guys!

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 02:17 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Dtown PA
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I love that stuff, check out por15.com they can tell you what is for what,

for your situation, it depends on the metal, is your trunk in good shape, or is it swiss cheese? If its pretty descent, the metal cleaner may not be needed, just clean the trunk well, and wirebrush it. it gives POR15 somthing to stick to. you can use metal etch if you wish, but like i said, it depends on the condition of the metal. POR15 chassis black is wonderfull too, I combine it with their fiberous patch to cover some holes in my floor and after applying the por15 it is as hard as steel.

wear gloves, if you get it on your skin ,it does not come off,. (although while fresh fingernail polish remover tends to break it down) but if it dries, the only thing that will take it off is wear and time.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 04:29 AM
Join Date: Nov 1999
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The stuff doesn't last long after it is opened, so I would recommend the six pack over a single large container.

As for what kind, the black is awesome, but if you are painting over pitted metal (or small holes), they recommend the silver.

Either will work great.

And only put on one coat. I found that the first coat has a nice semigloss finish. A second coat (fortunately on a small hidden area), dried dull with some streaks.

Also, call the POR guys and ask about painting over it. Some paints won't adhere. But I think they sell a topcoat that will accept paint.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 04:40 AM
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Location: Accord, NY
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Call their tech line. They're very helpful. I've used many of their products including Glisten PC to clearcoat a new gas tank. Great results. Anything I take apart gets cleaned and coated. Oh yes, wear a good mask and gloves.

Rick Dorion
69 RS Conv,355,M20,4.10's and I don't worry about stone chips.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 05:37 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Maine
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I have used this stuff and it is great. There are a few suggestions that I have.

Use the Metal Ready. This helps the POR-15 adhere to the metal, it is also what neutralizes the rust so it doesn't continue to spread under the paint.

Use multiple coats of POR-15 before topcoating it. The guys at POR-15 say that it is best to use 2 coats minimum just to make sure that any very tiny holes are painted over. I used 3 coats on mine... then top coated.

The Chassiscoat Black topcoat is a nice finish actually. I like it.

Might as well use some Marine Clean... if there is any grease/oil/anything on the surface of the part you are going to paint, the stuff won't adhere as well. The stuff goes a long way too... it can be diluted up to something like 10 parts water/1 part Marine Clean.

Finally, definately wear gloves and a HAIR NET!!! Goodness it took some time to get that stuff out of my hair.... Also, don't get the marine clean on you... it burns the skin and I have scars to prove it.
Good luck.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 06:34 AM
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A tip given to me by a dealer, punch a couple of holes in the top of the can and pour the paint out into another container through them. Use a couple of screws to plug the holes and the can will last indefinitely. Laquer thinner will clean the stuff as well, while wet. For small holes if you use fibreglass (mat or cloth) and cover it with POR15, it makes an very hard and undetectible repair.
Jim McGregor is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 08:21 AM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: La La Land, CA
Posts: 2,707

I like Jim's suggestion about punching a hole in the top of the lid. I do the same thing except seal the hole with a dab of silicone. That way no air can get in and the screw won't glue itself to the lid.

The Red Beast http://www.geocities.com/casanoc
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 01, 12:43 PM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Metro Chicago
Posts: 235

POR 15 has a trunk floor kit with everything you need. I did mine over the July 4th holiday. It took a couple of days because you need some of the applications to dry overnight. I had some pin holes in the floor. The kit has a two part putty that you kneed together. It works great.

If you want before and after pics e-mail me.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 01, 07:50 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Woodbridge, VA
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I have used Jim's suggestion too, but I put two 6-point bolts (not screws) in the bottom of the can instead. It worked just fine.

Another tip, use foam brushes instead of bristle brushes. I have had much better luck using them.

68/RS on Blocks...

[This message has been edited by Ricks68RS (edited 09-16-2001).]
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