69 camaro windshield installation - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 01, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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I have a 69 Camaro that someone had installed a sheetmetal dash in. The top of the dash runs all the way to the firewall. My question is what does the bottom of the windshield rest on? Currently there is no lip or anything bracing the bottom so it does not slide down. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.

Matt

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69 Camaro LS-6 454
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 01, 01:20 PM
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The bottom inch or so of the dash should be parallel to the glass and the byutal tape or urythane (sp) attaches the 2 surfaces there. A glass shop should have the black rubber shims that hold the glass in the correct spot.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 01, 03:30 PM
 
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Since we did this Saturday morning on my car here goes. I bought the 3M 3/8" ribbon sealer kit (with two rubber shims)from the local parts store. I bought a tube of the urethane from a auto paint store. I recommend you tape off around the windshield opening inside and out where you don't want the urethane to end up. It is sticky and will end up everywhere. The cowl is on my car so when we trial fit the windshield we could see we needed more "thickness" than the shims could provide. We broke up some paint stir sticks and set them against the cowl and then put the shims between them and the bottom of the windshield. We ran a thin bead of urethane around the body where the edge of the windshield rests. We unrolled the ribbon and set it into the urethane. We ran another thin bead of urethane on top of the ribbon and set the windshield on top of the sealer. Using the urethane gives you a little ability to move the windshield where you want it. Adjust the shims and paint sticks to where you want it to be and let everything dry. We also used a paint stick to butter up the around the windshield with extra urethane to fill up any voids. The edge of my new windshield only went over the edge of the molding a little bit, the sealer has to be set at the very edge at the side of the opening. You can use brake parts cleaner to get some of the mess off your hands and then a lot of soap and a couple of days. Good Luck.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 01, 06:05 PM
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I put the windsheild in my 67. We ran sealer up too far on the dash and it can now be seen through the window above the trim. It looks terrible. If I were to do it again I'd get a pro to do the job for sure!! In my opinion this is one area you don't want to mess up, That sealer is nasty.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 01, 01:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. I removed the glass (windshield) last night and started to remove the sheetmetal dash. I was pleased to find most of the original dash intact. I am going to finish removing the dash tonight. Then I will be able to see how bad it is. Thanks again for the help.

Matt
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 01, 12:53 PM
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Test fit the windsheild first and mark the dash area with a pencil so you can paint the urethane primer a 1/2 in up from the marks also in the NPD catalog they have the lower windsheild stops
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 01, 07:33 PM
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I was in the same boat, sheetmetal dash. Mine stopped at the speaker grill though. I guess you saw the two adjustable brackets on either side of the bottom edge of the glass. I made a point of scribing a mark so the brackets would go back exactly and the glass would fit again when I was done. The problem I had doing it myself ($15 worth for tape and primer was a good deal) was the layout of the buytl tape. Just like Whitey, you can see the tape above the trim on the lower edge just barely. Not ugly but not pure either. The top alignment was difficult and made me think the seal would leak. There is a very thin area to work with at the top edge of the opening and the tape has to be just right. I used the 5/16 butyl tape and had a little problem with the trim fitting back in place...so I waited for a sunny day (2-3 days later) and parked the car in the sun, then stood on the hood in my socks and pushed as evenly as possible to "seat" the glass against the tape/seal/whatever. Paint Thinner cleans the butyl mess up real good off of the old glass and you definitely need a friend to help place the glass on for the final time. All in all, I would do it again, but I am a cheap skate and I know what to watch for now.

p.s. make sure you cover your paint REALLY good with something that won't burn through when you weld your new dash in...I missed a little spot and have a few little microscopic holes melted through my clear coat.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 01, 07:39 PM
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I guess I didn't really answer your orig question either.

There are 2 small brackets that have an oblong hole to allow for adjusting where the glass sits. A sheetmetal screw holds them down and allows for sliding up and down on the top edge of the firewall where the bottom of the glass is. They are approx 1" wide by inch and a half long where the screws go through and then there is a lip about 1/4" that is folded up at 90 degrees there the bottom edge of the glass rest on. If you took the sheetmetal/cowl off when you removed your glass you should have seen em. They are unlike the Chevelles that use a rubber block to raise the glass into place.

there is also a forum about replacing glass in here. you can find it from the main page.
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