Timing Retard control??? - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 01, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Mass
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Well I ordered a timing retard box...I wired it up just like the instructions say(They told me to wire it according to the HEI diagram even though I have a Unilite distributor).As soon as I started the car it started to backfire and stall..And the ignition coil and ballast resistor were very hot..I called tech and they told me that they would send me out another one...The tech on the phone tells me that they don't do tech on the first call first they replace the unit to eliminate the possibility that the box could be defective...WOW..

So I'm here looking for tech info from you guys...Anyone install a timing retard switch on a mallory unilite system???How did it go??

Also There is a ballast resistor on my ignition system..It looks like I have a full 12volts going to the positve side of the coil..Then there is a pig tail that comes off + side of the coil to a ballast resistor(what exactly does a ballast resistor due???)..I believe from the ballast resistor it goes to the distributor is this correct....Or is the ballast resistor lowering the current to the coil..

What I mean does it go keyed 12 volts source to ignition coil to ballast resistor to distributor ...or is it keyed 12volts source to ballast resistor to ignition coil then distributor ..Any help would be appreciated..Thank you

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[This message has been edited by Badcaiman (edited 09-19-2001).]
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 01, 05:04 PM
 
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I tried a jacobs opto-timer (retarder,rev limiter) on my unilite comp 9000. My ignition was working fine until I tried to hook up the opto-timer. The Jacobs tech also instructed me to follow the hei wiring diagram. After wiring it up my car would not start. It acted like it wanted to but it would only spit and pop. I pulled the opto off and wired my coil and dist back like before and it ran fine. The opto is still mounted on my dash with the rev limiter set at about 8500 rpm for the imtimidation ractor. I finally switch to an hei because I couldn't find a new dist cap for my comp 9000 because mallory sold out to mr. gasket and my local shop could not order one. I've also tried to wire the opto to my hei but got the same result. I can't get a replacement under warranty because I bought it about 3 1/2 years ago when I was gathering parts for my rebuild. I'm not sure I want another one if its no more reliable than the first or maybe I just screwed it up. Live and learn. Next time I'll buy msd.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 01, 05:24 PM
 
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hey sorry about the sob story. The ballast resitor should have 12v in one side and 7-9 volts out the other. 7-9v goes to the + side of the coil with the - side coil goes to the dist. this is according to my 68 camaro factory assembly manual. But the wiring diagrams are a bit confusing with all the lines going every which way so dont accept it as gospel hope it helps.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 01, 02:58 PM
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Thats 7-9 volts while the car is running. If the car is not running than the voltage never goes to ground so you will see 12 volts at both ends of the ballist resistor. Dont want you to throw a ballist resistor in the car if you dont need one.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 01, 03:12 PM
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I don't know about the timing retard box, but I do know about coils and Unlites. If you have a full 12 volts to the coil, it will eventually fry both the coil and the Unilite module. The ballast resistor reduces normal operating voltage for the coil to around 7-8 volts, which is what the coil is designed to run at - it gets full 12 volts only for starting, from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. If the coil is run continuously at 12 volts, it will overheat and break down the insulation between the primary and secondary windings, causing an internal short, and the coil is history. The coil is filled with oil to transfer its normal heat from the windings to the case. It should be wired as follows: Assuming you have 12 volts to one side of the ballast resistor, you should have a wire from the other side of the resistor to the (+) terminal on the coil. The red wire from the Unilite goes to the 12-volt side of the resistor, the green wire from the Unilite goes to the (-) terminal on the coil, and the brown wire from the Unilite goes to an engine ground. If there are any other wires currently on the coil (+) terminal (like the one from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid), leave them there.

This will get it running properly - the retard box is another issue.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 01, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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OK..Now I understand...I UNDERSTAND THAT I AM COMPLETELY CONFUSED The way my coil and distributor appear to be wired is as follows...I have a red wire to the positive side of the coil(labeled 12volt power) Then there is a spliced yellow wire running from the red to the ballast resistor..and a white wire exits the other side of the ballast resistor and goes(I don't know where: e is a white that appears to run to to who knows where....
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Don't laugh here is an attempt at a diagram

coil(+) coil(-)-----Green--------distributor
RED-> .
.
..Yellow..(ballast resistor)..white..
.
.

[This message has been edited by Badcaiman (edited 09-20-2001).]
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 01, 01:36 PM
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I understand it's frustrating trying to figure out someone else's "hacked" engine wiring. Relax, have a beer, and wire it up as I outlined above. Just make sure your red wire that's currently going to the (+) coil terminal (which has to come off that terminal) has 12 volts with the ignition on before you start, so you know you have 12 volts going into the ballast resistor.

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