Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Washington, Michigan USA
I don't know about the timing retard box, but I do know about coils and Unlites. If you have a full 12 volts to the coil, it will eventually fry both the coil and the Unilite module. The ballast resistor reduces normal operating voltage for the coil to around 7-8 volts, which is what the coil is designed to run at - it gets full 12 volts only for starting, from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid. If the coil is run continuously at 12 volts, it will overheat and break down the insulation between the primary and secondary windings, causing an internal short, and the coil is history. The coil is filled with oil to transfer its normal heat from the windings to the case. It should be wired as follows: Assuming you have 12 volts to one side of the ballast resistor, you should have a wire from the other side of the resistor to the (+) terminal on the coil. The red wire from the Unilite goes to the 12-volt side of the resistor, the green wire from the Unilite goes to the (-) terminal on the coil, and the brown wire from the Unilite goes to an engine ground. If there are any other wires currently on the coil (+) terminal (like the one from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid), leave them there.
This will get it running properly - the retard box is another issue.
'69 Z28 Fathom Green