Engine fender wells - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 01, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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New '68 SS owner. I need to install both fender wells and saw a sight called up22.com. Has anyone here used them before and what are the opinions of utilizing fiberglass parts. I was also considering using the fiberglass trunk and spoiler kit. The braced trunk application. Thanks

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Presently installing 450hp (@5400 rpm)383 stroker motor for 1968 SS Camaro, TCI tranny w/3500 stall, 3.73 gears
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 01, 04:59 PM
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John
 
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I haven't used them, but they have a lot of negative feedback on this forum. The fenderwells in particular actually.

Check out this place... www.vfnfiberglass.com

I have heard good things about them
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 01, 06:50 PM
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Joe
 
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Fiber glass saves wieght. If you can shave a few pounds here and there than go for it. Fiber glass is harder to work with if it gets damaged than steel or plastics.

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70 camaro 307 (350soon) /350th
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 01, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback and the site gentlemen. The car is in really good shape but missing the fender wells and the trunk lid was completely sanded down due to surface rust. I will look into the fiberglass a little bit more before buying. I have the 4" cowl fiberglass hood on now. I don't know if I have to worry also about the weight in the front, wouldn't want it to be to light considering stereo equipment, battery, etc. is in the trunk. Negative forum about the fiberglass though, hmmmmmm, need to search for that. Thanks again.

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Presently installing 450hp (@5400 rpm)383 stroker motor for 1968 SS Camaro, TCI tranny w/3500 stall, 3.73 gears
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 01, 03:33 AM
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Tony
 
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Let me say this, when it comes to fiberglass replacement panels, You get what you pay for!
With that said, I have Unlimited Products fenderwells and front bumper. The Front bumper is a very nice piece, The fenderwells need alot of work to get them to fit and the smooth them for paint (and I mean alot of work). I also have a VFN 4 inch vowl hood that a friend hooked me up with. It fits great.

I have replied to this question a few times in this forum and in the body section. You can search there for more info.

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TONY
67 CAMARO R/S CLONE, 355/turbo 350, 200hp NOS,12 bolt,etc...
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 01, 01:05 PM
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Through the company I work for, I have extensive experience with fiberglas parts (aerospace industry). Although very advantageous on a weight basis, I have fould that the biggest downside is the variability froom the autoclave cure process that is generally 250 to 350 degrees F, depending on strength and stability requirements at higher temperatures. Be careful and good luck!
Cheers,
JJH
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 01, 02:11 AM
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Gary
 
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Original GM innner fenders are available from resto houses like Rick's for $120-130 each. That's the way I'd go.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 01, 01:36 PM
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I doubt if you could even measure any meaningful weight savings for the fiberglass inner fenders vs. the steel ones, unless they're REALLY thin; the steel ones fit fine, and don't take much prep work at all for painting.

There isn't that much weight savings with fiberglass, or C2-C3 Corvettes wouldn't weigh 3200 pounds; fiberglass is used in low-volume applications because the tooling is dirt cheap compared to the huge cost for steel stamping dies, not because it's any lighter than a comparable steel part for the same application. Race-car fiberglass is light because it's paper-thin; production-car fiberglass has to be thicker for surface quality and durability, and is no lighter than a comparable steel part.

I'd go with the steel parts and avoid the paint prep and fit hassles. I've worked with fiberglass all my life in the Corvette side of my hobby, and GOOD fiberglass parts are made in a press using SMC (Sheet Molding Compound) and matched steel dies (only requires one set, vs. five or six progressive die sets for a steel part); the other 99% of aftermarket fiberglass parts are hand-laid in the open in one-sided molds made of wood, plaster, or epoxy, are nowhere near as strong as a press-molded part, and are only smooth on one side.

Same old story - you get what you pay for, and the guys who make aftermarket fiberglass parts can't afford the tooling and processes to do it like a production part, so you get to do all the fit, finish, and paint prep work, and then live with the stress cracks, resin-rich corners and edges, etc.

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JohnZ
'69 Z28 Fathom Green

[This message has been edited by JohnZ (edited 09-25-2001).]
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 01, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well, seeing how I have never utilized fiberglass parts before, I think I will go with your experience on the matter then. I would hate to go through the hassle if someone has already been through that scenario with results that weren't great. I think your right about the weight facts. the only reason I would even consider fiberglass would be the weight advantage but if it's minimal then the repo's would be the way to go. Thanks for the input, saves me money and aggrevation.
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