68 Camaro gets hot air from vents - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 01, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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I hope I'm posting in the correct segment..it didn't seem to fit in any other catagories so...

Anyway. I have a 68 Camaro v-8 with factory A/C..I've owned this car for nearly 14 years and it's had this problem ever since I got it and have not been able to solve it..hot air blows out of the A/C vents all the time..in the summer it gets it's very noticeble.It's totally stock with stock exh. manifolds. I've removed the evap, all the doors are fine, I've resealed the case to the firewall. I resealed the two halves of the evap case,and relpaced the drain pipe rubber...still hot air...I have a 67 with A/C that is fine. Anyone have this problem?

Thanks

Gary
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 01, 06:56 PM
XK1
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I've got that problem in mine, but its probably my fault. I had done a heater core, and I guess something didn't seal, and I get HOT air seeping in during the summer. Rather than go through it all again, I got a nice looking valve to shut off flow to the core in the summer. Mine isn't origonal, or I guess I would have to fix it right! Just an idea, though.
Oh, yeah- I be sure to run with it open occasionally to keep any crud from building up.
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[This message has been edited by XK1 (edited 10-25-2001).]
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 01, 07:48 PM
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Yep, I had the exact same problem with mine for many years. It drove me nuts.

During restoration, here's what I did:

1) Verified that the cowl flapper valve was sealing correctly and operable.

2) Made a new seal for the kick panel flapper door. If you drill out the rivets you can make a new seal out of sheet rubber and rivet the two halves back together.

3) Re-sealed/inspected all of the doors in the heater box for proper operation and sealing. It took the better part of a day to get it really sealed well. Also note the position of the cable attachment arms are supposed to be at the travel limits. I wish I could describe it better but there is a clearish plastic component that over time warps and causes a poor seal. Until you study the airflow pathways this seal, as well as others, can easily be missed.

4) Carful adjustment of the cables so that over/under-travel of the arms does not occur.

5) Protect the engine side evaporator box from heat. All air coming out of the vents goes through the evaporator box so keeping it cool helps keep the air cool.

Since it has been back together it has worked significantly better.

What a pain.

Carl

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 01, 01:12 AM
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I'm sure you've checked to make there is plenty of R-12 in the system, Compressor will come on even if there is no R-12, due to not having a low pressure switch in-line with the clutch electrical lead.

If suction hose is sweating all the way to the compressor, then I'd say you've got plenty of R-12. Otherwise, you might have a stuck POA valve at the outlet of evap. This was very common, allowed the compressor to cycle on&off in short cycle times, less than 2-5 seconds due tothe compressor thermal switch.

Next I'd look is to remove glove box and glove box. Move TEMP knob and see if door is really moving. There is a pinch bolt for the cable housing, it may need loosen, adjust cable for max cold, move cable to make sure door is closing all the way. Monitor air temp at vent(s). Check other cable operations, too.

CarlC gave very good tips, as well as the rest did.

Good Luck,

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 01, 06:48 AM
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cavemate, have you checked you heater hose shutoff valve? They can go bad and let hot water into the heater core. It's the vacuum operated valve on the pass inner fender.
You could even disconnect the heater hoses and see if you problem goes away.

Luck, Kevin

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 01, 07:12 AM
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I didn't think vacuum operated valves came out until 70, but, I can learn, AND it is a good suggestion. They do break.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 01, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks a lot guys....Great ideas! My car never had a heater valve. hats a good adea about the warped plastic door and the flapper. I think my door may be warped.Agin, appreciate the help!


-Gary
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 01, 08:51 PM
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'68's did not come with the heater shut-off valve. It can be used by vacuum splicing into the cowl or kick panel flapper. The valve mounts on the RH fenderwell on later models but it gets really tight with the compressor mounting location.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 01, 02:55 AM
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Carl, I was thinking about 69s, thanks for setting me straight, but if hot water is still going to the heater core in his 68, could that be causing or contributing to his problem? Maybe a small ball **** shutoff valve, that can be turned off manually for the summer?

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 01, 07:13 AM
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Kevin,

The vacuum shut-off valve is a great idea if it can be made to fit.

Since all of the circulated air must go through the hot evaporator case any reduction of heat is helpful.

After 30+ years of having a hot heater core stuffed in that box something is bound to go haywire. It does work reasonable well after all the box seals are fixed.

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