Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 01, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
Tech Team
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 32

Is there a special tool needed for the staples that hold the fender well splash gaurd on. Any tips appreciated.

69 Z-11
ANDYSZ is offline  
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 01, 06:50 AM
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Orange Co. N.Y.
Posts: 15

I use a small drill bit to drill out the necessary holes, insert the staples, and hammer over the ends. It is a little easier if one person holds the staple in place and another hammers them in place. You may want to use a small drift punch to get a better angle on the staple ends.

68 RS is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 01, 10:37 AM
Senior Tech
Join Date: May 2001
Location: NZ
Posts: 106

Before hammering the pins flat I rolled the ends over with long nose pliers to duplicate the original look

68 SS
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 01, 08:24 PM
Senior Tech
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: denver, co USA
Posts: 407

As mentioned, you will need to drill the original holes just a bit larger as the staples that come with your new splash shields are a little thicker. I drilled out the holes and the splash shields together. Insert the new staples and bend the ends over with pliers or any technique you like to get them to look nice and fit snug.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 01, 09:00 AM
Senior Tech
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Chattanooga, TN, USA
Posts: 7,609

I did the same thing with my A/C baffles. made staples out of stainless wire, drilled out the holes to 1/64" and used needle nose pliers to put a "factory curl" on the staples. Looks excellent.

For the splash shields, I installed the inner fender to frame seals, after the it was installed, because I wanted to get a good seal. Took me a couple of hours to get all the staples in. (they go from inside to outside) If I had it to do over, I'd install the inner fender and mark the location of the seal. Then pull the inner fender off, to install the staples. Wpuld have taken less time!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 01, 04:45 PM
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Bryan Shook
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Enola, Pennsylvania
Posts: 428

I learned about this trick a few years ago on this site or maybe it was the Chevelle site, but none the less, it's a good trick. Take some small gauge wire (for some reason 14guage foral wire comes to mind as what they suggested, but this was a few years ago), close to what the original staple is and cut it to the lenght of a stape. Then install the splash gaurds and use the wire in place of the staples. Just install the wire and bend the ends over. You will find that the wire bends much easier than the staple.

Just a side not, I suppose you could pound the wire flat (well sort of flat, as flat as it will let you) and that will make for a cleaner looking installation.

I have never tried this trick, but it sounds good and much easier than installing those pesky staples. I helped my dad install the staples on his 1968 RS, what a pain that was.

Good luck

Bryan Shook
Favorite Quote - Some people have shrinks. Some people have their garage.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 01, 04:04 AM
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Quebec Canada
Posts: 142

According to the 69 Factory Assembly Manual, there are three types of clinch for the staples. They are a 37 1/2 degree clinch, a flat clinch and a 45 degree clinch. (Clinch is how the ends are finished) They do not specify which is used where. So, I would guess that you could use any of them but be consistant.
Jim McGregor is offline  
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