Need help, buying '69, what to look for? - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2001 General Tech questions from 2001
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
 
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Location: Chico, CA
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Ok guys, I am and have been looking for a '69 to buy. I think I have a pretty good idea in general of what to look for.

Maybe you guys can help me out and give me your opinions on the following:

First is this car http://adcache.collectorcartraderonl...0/18310630.htm

Just talked to the guy. Said he bought it for his son but son is now interested in 4X4's so they cant keep it, had it 6 mo. Said the car runs great and is mechanically sound. Only real problem he disclosed was rust under the rear window. I know that is a problem area for these cars. He said it had a small hole from the rust. Question: Can that area or panel be replaced like most of the other body panels? If not is it easy or worth it to get into trying to fix that?

He is asking $5,500 but is negotiable. With a budget of possibly up to 10 grand that leaves me some cash to replace the rust area, buy new wheels, throw some money at it mechanically to make sure it is reliable and whatever else....oh also, he "thinks" its a 10 bolt.

So, whatcha think?


Well thats all for now, couldnt get ahold of the others.

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 04:45 PM
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Scott
 
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Wow! I would definitely check this car closely. $5,500 seems low for a car that looks that good. Rust often appears on the bottoms of the doors (corners), behind the wheel wells (esp. rear) and on the rear window corners as you describe- among others.

You should check the under carriage also. Look at the floor pans closely to see if there is any rust through. Examine the rear and front subframes closely. look for bends, kinks or other signs of collision damage.

Check the body lines- do they line up properly? and look straight (not a wavy surface). Take a small magnet with you and check for body filler at the common rust areas (the magnet will not stick if there is excess filler).

The good news is that body portions can be repaired- the bad news is that it ain't cheap. Go with your gut...if the car appears solid after the above checks and drives o.k., buy it ! At that price you will have found a gem. Mechanical work is much less expensive than body work, so don't sweat if it is a little rough.

You may want to check the tag (by the brake booster/ master cylinder on the firewall), write down all the numbers and letters as they appear and post them here in the tag team section. Someone will help you decode the tag to see what the car had originally. Post the vin # also.

Good Luck!

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 05:44 PM
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John
 
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check the trunk, inside and underside. If the rear window area is rusted, the chances are that water can get into the trunk. $5,500 isn't bad, but I can't tell too much from the picture. Pictures can be decieving.

For example, I got my '68 for a bit less than the price they are asking. My car's exterior appearance can be seen at www.geocities.com/boodlefoof This is how it looked when I bought it, but it had the original rallye wheels and a lot of dirt on it. Motor, trans, rear, basically everything... was pure stock when I bought it though. Most people are very surprised at how little I paid for it with how it looked.

Good luck.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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OK so lets say that that IS the only major spot of rust, what about my question about reparing it? How does that go?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 02, 11:37 PM
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You will have to remove the deck lid and rear window. There will be some relatively delicate cutting that will have to be done around each coach weld (upper 1/4 panel seam). Be careful with cutting out the old panel because there is another one underneath it that supports the deck lid hinges. All and all, it's not real difficult to replace if you have the right tools and equipment and take your time.
I don't recall if you mentioned the color and the picture of the car wouldn't come up when I clicked on it but if the car is a light metalic color, the paint will probably have to be blended into the adjacent panels to get a decent match.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 03:50 AM
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Hi, look over the car very closely. get all the numbers on the car and decode them so you know exactly what the car was origionally. too many people sell them as more than they really are. things to look at closely would be, all the pans, shock towers, inside wheel wells, be sure to pull up carpet in some areas. like the others have said go with your gut feelings you will know when you have found the right car. good luck!!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 06:35 AM
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I callled this guy before, he told me the body was cracked in the back. Can't remember where it was exactly. You might want to ask him. I've never heard of the body cracking, but you should consult with the tech team. Just some infor you might want to know!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 08:40 AM
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I've seen many Camaros that had a stress crack behind the rear window.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by the5farrs:
I callled this guy before, he told me the body was cracked in the back. Can't remember where it was exactly. You might want to ask him. I've never heard of the body cracking, but you should consult with the tech team. Just some infor you might want to know!<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Niiiiice......

Ok, now somebody tell me more about this. I've heard of stress cracks before but never had any experience with them. What are they? How serious? Should I stay away? Etc....


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 03:52 PM
 
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Hey, I just wanted to let you know I went over and looked at the car today! I know camaros very well and I WOULD NOT recommend you buy the car! here are just a few reasons:

Rear filler below rear window is all bondo and caracked and rusted!

Both quarter wheel lips are made of bondo

The stress crack on the drivers qtr. is almost 3" long downward and 2" towards the back! If you look in from the trunk towards the crack you can see outside the car!!

The paint job is so cheesy when you open the trunk there is no paint under the spoiler!

The front seats are out of an 80's car

There is rust in the trunk pan

There are SEVERAL HUGE bubbles all along the drip rails on BOTH sides and it was not a vinyl top car either!

I did not test drive the car... I honestly yhink you would be wiser spending you money on a less rusted car. This car was filled with bodno to disguise SERIOUS cancer!

I am not trying to BASH the car but I do hope I have been of soem help as I did take my time to go check out the car for you. It first went up for sale in november, that should tell you something because Camaros here in the Bay Area usually don't last even 2 days if they are good cars!

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 02, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
 
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Damn. Thanks man, I really appreciate it, you saved me a trip.

Too bad eh. I did notice its been for sale for a long time, was suspicous.

Thanks again.
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