283 cranks - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 02, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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I'm trying to chase down a 283 crank. Whats the deal? Either I am ablivious to anyone that offers them or there isn't a large array of aftermarket cranks to choose from. I'm looking to play around with destroking a 350 to get somewhere around 302 cubic inches. But thats a whole other post. So just whats the story here??
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 02, 05:42 PM
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Just remember that most 283's are small journal crankshafts. Most 350 blocks are large journal. You want a block with a 4" bore (327 or 350). Make sure your block matches your crankshaft journal size. (Most 327's also have the small journal.)

69 Camaro Z28 "clone" - 327 AT
"461" camel back heads,
edelbrock, hooker, ultradyne,
TRW etc.
700R4 TPI transmission
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 2nd, 02, 10:26 PM
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I have a 283 crank I just pulled out of a 1967 302ci engine. Crank looks fine, I replaced it with the "correct" casting # crank for the engine. email me if you're interested.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 02, 01:05 AM
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I have three of them all in good shape, all steel cranks. Heck you can have the complete engine for $50. They are in good shape (ran when I pulled them).

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 02, 02:04 AM
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I considered using a 283 crank in a 327/350 block but fitting the bearings would have been a chore. There used to be a few suppliers that sold thicker spacer bearings to do this but all I could find these days was the 350 crank/400 block ones that are more popular. The 283 rods are smaller and weaker too. I did find a forged 302 crank that bolted right in and used off the shelf parts for $300(from a friend)but that would be hard to do again for that price. The going price of around $450-500 bucks isn't that bad considering what steel 350 cranks sell for. The total engine cost just works out better.

While we are on the subject, look into laying your hands on a set of pistons as the availabillity is getting very tight. You might need to go custom made ($600-700). There is one aftermarket 3" medium journal(Crower lightweight maybe?) crank out there but it is WAY more $$$

My advice, build a DZ if you realy want one but 327 would be a lot easier and rev about as well.


P.S. - I did find a set of pistons for 6" rod (aftermarket) at Flatlander racing a while back. That is a good combo if they still have them. You may have to mill the dome down a bit for compression issues. I think they were TRW/Speed Pro. The domes on the TRW/SP ones I was able to track down were hollow so I could only go down to an actual 11:1 or so with my 64CC heads. Just a bit more to think about. Good Luck!

P.P.S. - after I read this, the 327 starts sounding a LOT better. LOL

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 04-03-2002).]

[This message has been edited by stingr69 (edited 04-03-2002).]
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 3rd, 02, 07:12 AM
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The other route to go (this is the way I would do it) would be to use an 86 up block with 5.94" connecting rods (new GM, about $250 a set) with an L99 3.000" crank (about $500, email me and i can get you the part number) with 350 pistons (it all stacks up)
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 02, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
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I did find this one guy that sold a whole kit, but for only 350 dollars?? It seems kinda sketchy to me.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 5th, 02, 08:09 AM
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This can be done rather cheaply if you are patient. I picked up a 67 327 short block complete with forged 12.15:1 pistons and all the machine work was complete for $200. Originally he wanted 400, but after a week he came down as he needed the cash. this price included the complete gasket set, including head gaskets. 283 cranks can be bought on ebay very cheap, under $50 in some cases, they seem to appear in spurts, 2 or 3 at a time and then nothing for a few weeks. The pistons are getting scarce, but I managed to buy a new set of forged 302 .020" over from Smokey for $70. These prices are really low, but it shows you how cheaply you can get some of this stuff if you are dilligent and patient. I never had to ask anyone to reduce their price or offer them less than they were asking, I don't like to do that, in the case of the shortblock, the guy called me after a week and offered to drop the price. I stuck quite a bit more into the engine while putting it together, but again I'll bet I don't have $1200 into the motor, that's with stainless race flow valves, solid cam and lifters, Arp pro series rod bolts and many other good pieces. Of course I do all my own assemble and much of my own machine and head work. At that price I'll run it to 8500 all day long and if it doesn't hold up, I'm not out anything.

Don't use the 283 rods they are weaker than the 67 327 rods as can be seen by looking at the large ends. You probably should consider a set of Eagle rods for the small journal as a necessary modification.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 02, 05:42 PM
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If you do need a set of the spacer bearings, Childs & Albert still sell them.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 05:59 AM
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You can get anything you want for bearings at Callies in Fostoria, OH.

I have had excellent service with them. You can adjust for your oil clearance.

Everett 68/350/PG/11.90/115mph
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 02:35 PM
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The 67 Z/28 crank was a special part not a standard 283 crank. The Z/28 used a small journal crank in 67 then was a large journal crank in 68-69. I was researching this because I have one of these 67 Z/28 cranks and a set of 67 291 fulie heads that I was going to use to build a 67 Z/28 motor. The last 67 Z/28 crank I saw for sale was in Hemmings for $950.00
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 02, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not looking for anything that original or that expensive for that matter. Just a fun little motor that will take the punishment of the better side of 8k.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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Score! Got a 327 block just yesterday, really dirty. After I cleaned it up a bit and checked over the bearings and bores I didn't see any unusual wear. I roughly measured the main bearings to just under 2.5". I'm guessing this is a small journal? Even if it isn't, hey I got it free!!!
Gotta love the generous friends that just have too much to work on. So are the journals of the small variety and have they likely been bored. Been too busy to look it up.

[This message has been edited by JLD (edited 04-10-2002).]
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 10th, 02, 11:05 PM
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I'm surprised that you guys are having a hard time finding the small journal 327 blocks. There were tons of them in passenger cars from 62 on and I found a 63 model 870 block with the 300 horse heads in a junkyard last year for 50 bucks. I don't see the reason for destroking it in a street car, but if that's yo bag, seems like a 283 crank would be an easy score. My Speed Pro catalogue, which may be a couple of years old now still lists pistons in std, .030 and .060 in 11:1 & 12.5:1. I guess they could be discontinued now, but surely there are some still around.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 02, 01:48 AM
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Solid lifters,
I do not know if they are no longer in the catalog (have not seen it). I called several big name suppliers and most were not able to sell me any pistons for a .030 302 chevy. PAW had one engine kit for a 302 that they deleted the bearings out of it and sold me the pistons but I think I got the last set. I read in Business week a while back that the new Federal Mogul owners had shut down the forging foundry but that may have changed as there is a new boss over there I believe. Flatlander racing did have a set for 6" rods but that was a few months ago and they told me nobody has the 5.7" 302 pistons as they are on national backorder at the time. I would be looking for used if I had not found the ones I did find.

The 283 cranks are no problem to find at $50.00 or so on Ebay all day. I like using eagle SIR full floaters if they make them for the small journal. I have a set and they are NICE for a bullet proof bottom end.

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