Parts finish question! - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 02, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
DjD
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Dennis
 
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Anyone ever see a rear end (axle tubes) or other parts that the surface looks like a golfball or cottage cheese? Is that cottage cheese effect or pitting from over zelous media blasting to remove rust or using the wrong grade media? Is it just something that can't be avoided when doing rust cleanup?

Thanks,


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...Dennis
"The '69, the '96 & the club"
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 02, 04:23 AM
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Its from rust pitting.You can use a high build primer to fill it then sand before topcoating.Unless your powdercaoting,then i think you have to live with the pits.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 02, 04:38 AM
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Dennis, Sounds like what you're seeing is the effect of rust on the tubes. As you know these parts received minimal coating (paint) coverage from the factory and it didn't take long for the weather and elements to take it off. Then they would rust like crazy. If you look under your '96 SS you'll find the axle has no paint on it what so ever. at least our '94 came that way. I took it out when the car was less than a month old and painted it. Mainly cause I'm wierd that way.
Back to your problem, aside from replacing the tubes which isnt practical or cheap and finding housings these days is also a problem unless your really concerned with it's appearance I'd go with it as is. When I did the kid's car I had some surface pitting so I cleaned it down to bare metal, primered, painted it with black acrylic enamel and cleared over that for added protection.
Hope this helps.

John
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 02, 05:23 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replies... It's not a problem on my parts, though I was courious as I have seen it recently and was wondering if less agressive rust removal would have limited some of it. If a a rusty part went out to be cleaned (blasted) and coated would you expect the guy doing the work to inform you after blasting but before plating or powder coating?

Thanks again,

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 27th, 02, 04:42 PM
Z28 Mark @home
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Hey Dennis,
When I blast parts I do look for the “really bad areas” but most of the time (at least lately) this has not been the case. I did do some hood stiffeners on a guys “50’s Chevy truck that had some pitting but he didn’t care that much because I saved him 3-4 hours of time with a can of paint remover and a wire wheel. Also I only use glass bead, which is just great for rust and light paint removal.
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 02, 05:07 AM
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Dennis, "Agressive blasting" is more of a hazard to sheetmetal than anything else. A rust pit is a rust pit and at the bottom of the pit is fresh metal. Once the rust is removed you can blast all day and the pits won't get any deeper or larger. On the other question I think I understand what you're asking. I would say it depends a little on the shop doing the work and the customer. If you use a shop that does alot of restoration work or automotive work they might be more likely to call you after blasting and advise you as to the condition of the part before proceeding. Also the customer has some responsibility not to assume this and relate to the shop that he wants to know the condition of the part before it is coated. We all know what happens when we assume anything.

Later,
John
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 02, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all!

I had given some advice to a friend and was questioning myself I guess. I asked about the asthetics (sp?) from a show perspective over at www.yenko.net and for the sake of the parts being orig, cottage cheese is acceptable over replacment parts on high end cars if the part hasn't been weakened beyond safe use...

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 28th, 02, 06:06 PM
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I did some small parts (bead blasting) for Jeff today (JKS67SS396) and again these parts are over 30 years old and had some rust on them w/ some pitting, but they will just be painted and re-used and they will look just fine. But I can see your point on a REAL SHOW STOPER “show car” and then you may want to look for a better quality part to be reworked and plated/ painted or powder coated.
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 02, 12:19 PM
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I learned that it depends on what type of paint you use too. A flat or textured paint (like 3M rubberized undercoating) will hide that "cottage cheeze effect" real well on a rear end. If you try to go with a gloss on the part any defect tends to really show up. I had a heck of a time getting a semigloss black on my inner fenders to look right.

It may be a mute point though for those that must use the "correct" color, since there may not be a choice.
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