Subframe connectors-WOW - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old May 18th, 02, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Guy's just wanted to drop a note on these that I just installed. The history is, I pulled the cross brace on my 67 convertable to install the AT exhaust and descided to use subframe connectors instead of lowering the cross brace.

What a difference it has made in the handling amd ride. If you own a convertable three things you really need and may not know are, 1. larger sway bar, 2. multi-leaf springs, and 3. subframe connectors.

BTW I used the Comp Engineering ones and notched them to fit, then box welded them. They are the bolt in kind, I bolted the back and front then welded the front in.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old May 18th, 02, 03:58 PM
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Amen! I've done all three to mine. My connectors are Global West's so I still have my x brace, but the effect is the same. Like a whole new car.

------------------
68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old May 19th, 02, 11:18 AM
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I can't find those connectors on Global's website. Do you have any info on them? Cost?

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 04:42 AM
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http://www.globalwest.net/

Last I checked they did not have any information about the convertible connectors on their web site but if you call them you can order them.

If I remember correctly they were around $225. Pricey but I did not have to cut my floor.

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69 RS Convertible Camaro, 350/350. Orignal red with black top and interior.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 06:49 AM
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Thanks. I'll give them a call. Would they interfere with Cal-Tracs? I am thinking about adding them as well.

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Cars:
<A HREF="http://www.camaroclubkc.com/rs1968ss.htm" TARGET=_blank>68 RS/SS BB ragtop
</A>RWHP: 329.4 RWTQ: 398.9
63 Nova II ragtop
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 02, 10:09 AM
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Rick,

I understand multileaf springs create a harsher ride than other alternatives. Are you recommending anything other than monoleafs, or do you like multileafs over all others?
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 02, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I have the 5 leafs and the ride is kind of harsh but still acceptable. If I had it to do again I would use the three leaf springs. I had monoleafs before and they bottom'd out on every bump, also the tended to hop with hard accelleration. I think the stiffer monosprings might be ok but I've heard they don't do much for the wheel hop.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 02, 04:13 PM
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If you get the factory replacements springs for the monoleafs, they'll give you three- leaf springs.

That's what I had done and the ride is not too harsh. Sort of the middle ground...

------------------
68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 02, 04:10 AM
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Are the convert-sub frame connectors any different from the coupe connectors?

Is there any agreement as to what the favorite sub frame connector is,

- Bolt in?

- Cut and weld in?

Something I've been wondering about. What about a bolt in subframe connector that has a mid flange, or any flange, that gets welded to the floor pan? Something less drastic than cuting the floor up yet provides a three place tie in on the connector vs. front and back.

What do you think? Is there such a thing?

Comments?

Rick O'Loughlin



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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 02, 04:58 AM
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The coupe connectors will not fit on a convert (without modification) due to the convert's floor bracing. Weld-in's are generally preferred.

------------------
-Randy
Cars:
<A HREF="http://www.camaroclubkc.com/rs1968ss.htm" TARGET=_blank>68 RS/SS BB ragtop
</A>RWHP: 329.4 RWTQ: 398.9
63 Nova II ragtop
Club:
Camaro Club of Kansas City
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 02, 09:15 AM
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I agree. I would think that the weld-ins would be better. I'm looking to see if there is a happy medium between the two. Bolt-ins are easy, weld-ins provide more support. What about a bolt-in that has a couple of tabs that get welded?

This is a huge difference between cutting the floor boards to weld in the DS&E type verses bolts front and back.

What do you think? Input?

I guess it would be just as easy to attach "U" or "L" brackets running from the side of the sub frame connector up to the floor board. Understand, for a novice, it would be easy to tack weld these in.

Rick O

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 02, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Do not cut your floor. There are suframe connectors made for converts, some of the above post talk about them. I got the CE ones and had to notch them to fit. That is a good idea about welding them to the floor I may do that. I know notching them weakens them but I think it's better than nothing. From the ride I know this is true.

As far as bolt in vs weld in I think the bolt in are better, but I bolted the back and welded the front. This is strickly because I'm a novice welder and this was well within my abilities.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old May 24th, 02, 01:35 AM
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Rick, how much did you have to notch those CE's? Is it only one spot? I've been thinking about the same thing. I was wondering if instead of notching and removing that piece altogether, what if you bent the notched piece out 90* and used that flange to either bolt or weld onto the K brace it has been notched to get around. I thougt maybe if the K brace is thick enough you could drill and tap for a couple of bolts through each flange. It would be bolted on each end and in the middle and would be easy to remove. (I don't weld at all yet)
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old May 24th, 02, 02:23 AM
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my CE bolt-ins required no modification. It might have something to do with the body bushings?
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old May 24th, 02, 05:01 AM
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Boodle, you don't have a ragtop right? That's what requires the mods.
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