Flow Kooler?? - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old May 19th, 02, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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Bruno
 
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Does any of you have used this gadget to improve the cooling system? Does it work?
BRA-3500-01 The Flow Kooler water pump conversion disc rivets to the back of a six-bladed star impeller, reducing open areas around the impeller for at least 60 percent more coolant flow. Try one before shelling out a bunch of money for a new cooling system.





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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 03:12 AM
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I would be skeptical of such a gaget. If it were helpful and/or desirable, the factory would have designed them that way. With 60% more flow, would the water be in the radiator long enough to be cooled effectivly?
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 03:46 AM
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I agree with Kyvox.. a big percentage of cooling is leaving the heated fluid in the system exposed to the cooling elements long enought to pull the heat out.
Same in your home a/c units. By slowing the air flow, you allow more humidity to be drawn away from the air. Too fast and you have cool,damp air.
Same in cooling fluid in a car, you need the time to draw the heat out, too fast and you will have overheating.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 06:13 AM
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I had put one of these in my dirt car a few years back,it did help some ,but that motor was slung from 3000 to 7000 rmp's lap after lap .
I think it has to do with cavition(sp?)or something!
this system also had a restrictor in place of the thermostat.
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[This message has been edited by fastorange67 (edited 05-20-2002).]
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, just checking the different low bucks alternatives to mild overheating. I'm not accustomed to see the temp needle up to 200°F and after the A/C install, it gets there, but just under heavy traffic at over 90° ambient. I have a 160° thermostat already installed and today I ordered a 14" electric fan with a thermo switch to control it. I have heard, and understand, that the water or cooling fluid needs to be inside the motor for a specific amount of time to do its job. But what's the use of a high flow water pump then, just a catch to make us spend more money?

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 07:56 AM
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That disc changes your water pump from an open impeller design to a closed impeller design which will improve the amount of flow the pump can move at any given RPM. All of the higher dollar water pumps come with these already installed.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 07:58 AM
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AC cars came and were designed with a 195 deg stat back in the day. They also got a thermal clutch and fan to help keep cooling under control. I don't recall your combo but it sounds like air flow from your discription of the problem. Heavy traffic and sitting at stop lights you are sucking in hot exhaust from the cars around you. Is there a problem sitting in the driveway idling under the same conditions but without the other cars? If not 200 isn't that hot that it will cause a problem. I do recomend the 195 stat over the 160 though. Think of the stat as a switch that controls the fluid flow in the cooling system. If you use a 160 the fluid will flow sooner but the rest of the system must work so well that it lowers the temp below 160 or it's like not running a stat at all. With the 195 you'll have a better shot at the stat opening and closing and regulating the system as it is susposed to... If you didn't have the air I'd say stay with 180....

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 10:26 AM
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Dennis,

Do you think that changing my 180 degree thermostat to a 195 degree thermostat may help my cooling problems? I played with the timing and idle mixture and it helped a little, but the temp still climbs at idle, albeit a little slower now.

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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My car has the sb fan shroud with a 23" rad. It also has the thermal clutch with original fan blade. Haven't let it idle for too long at home but don't think it goes so high. I'll check tomorrow, outside in the sun for at least 15/20 min?? I'll let you know anyway. Don't think 200° is too much either and it goes to 185° as soon as the car starts to move, thats the reason I ordered a fan. As soon as the fan is installed I'm gonna test the 185° stat as Dennis suggest, maybe that way the temp needle will stabilize in one spot like my daily driver.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 03:39 PM
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Orench,

Sounds like you are having the same issues I am having with my 67. I've got the narrower radiator, but it is a 4 core unit. Let me know what happens with the fan on there and the 195 degree thermostat....I'd be very interested to see if these fix the problems.

By the way, how are you going to mount the fan? I'd really like the needle to stabilize in one spot, as this car is my daily driver!!

PS: Gorgeous 68 you have there!!
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The Club - GM Muscle Cars of the Carolinas

-1967 Camaro SS350 clone - 350/TH-350 with shift kit, CompCams XE268H, Dynomax Jet-Hot headers, Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust, Vintage Air

-2002 Impala LS - Medium Bronzemist Metallic, every option except engine block heater

<A HREF="http://www.furman.edu/~jtrauner" TARGET=_blank>Click here to see my Camaro and my parents' 2002 Impala LS.
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[This message has been edited by jrt67ss350 (edited 05-20-2002).]
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 04:43 PM
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If you guys run an electric fan it's my experience that the temp will flucuate between the temp that the fan comes on at and the temp that the thermostat opens at. My 96 runs 210 sitting in traffic on a warm day but turn the air on (fans come on) and it drops to 185-190 at the most. It always runs 185 when moving. My 69 is way more stable at 190 in traffic and warm/hot day with the clutch fan. Moving it doesn't get over 180.

Both work, I just perfer less fluctuation...

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old May 20th, 02, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments Justin. I ordered this unit in 14" as mentioned before. The mounting spot will be between the grill and the rad, at the drivers side of the center header panel reinforcement. By loking at this fan, I know I have to made some brackets, and maybe locate some wire mesh on top of it to avoid accidents. The selection was based on CFMs produced, if there is something that I hate, is the chance of having to turn the A/C off while waiting in line to enter a car show. I've seen this happen to a lot of guys and I simply wouldn't resist that. What is the use of having an A/C then?

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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old May 21st, 02, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Today's conditions; new 16 lbs rad cap, new 180° stat, 90° ambient temp, car idling 15 min under the sun with A/C on. Max temp got to 195°. As soon as I drove the car around it went to 180°. Next test will be, same conditions but with the 14" elect fan installed. Results will be posted as soon as the fan get installed.

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[This message has been edited by ORENCH (edited 05-21-2002).]
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old May 21st, 02, 04:01 PM
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Wow, if mine climbed to 195 and stayed there, I'd be thrilled. Mine does the same, but just keeps on climbing indefinitely with the A/C on or off...faster if the A/C is on.

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Justin Traunero
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The Club - GM Muscle Cars of the Carolinas

-1967 Camaro SS350 clone - 350/TH-350 with shift kit, CompCams XE268H, Dynomax Jet-Hot headers, Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust, Vintage Air

-2002 Impala LS - Medium Bronzemist Metallic, every option except engine block heater

<A HREF="http://www.furman.edu/~jtrauner" TARGET=_blank>Click here to see my Camaro and my parents' 2002 Impala LS.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 02, 05:53 PM
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Orench,

I have one of those "gadgets" on my '68 327. Yes, it did make a difference, especially when coming off of the highway. My car gets cooler much faster and it lowered the temp. some too. I wouldn't hesitate to install another one. I'd reccomend the piece to anyone.
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