Question about trans cooler - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 02, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry to ask this here guys but if I don't get my old F*** pickup running again I won't be able to tote that big American Thunder exhaust system box up to the shop to get my 68 finished.
Anyway, my trans cooler is leaking. It's an external unit about 12" long and 4" high. F*** wants $139 for it. Summit has a B&M street rod trans cooler (BMM-70265) that looks just like it. It has 1/2 NPT female fittings and it's rated up to 15,000 lbs GVW. I think the fittings might be the same as mine but I'm not sure on that size rating thing. Anybody have an idea if that is going to work?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 02, 08:34 AM
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Usually aftermarket doesn't ever bolt up to factory, but there are those brass adapters at the local hydraulic/pnuematic shop/store.

One can do a couple thigs to solve the situation at hand,

1. Cut the lines/hoses and hose clamp them in place,
2. Borrow somebody's truck for transporting.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 02, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
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I think I'm gonna be OK fittings wise and the pic of this one looks just like my stock one. I think the bracket can be adapted. I went ahead and ordered it so we'll see. As far as borrowing a truck, I'm ALWAYS the loaner never the loanee if you know what I mean.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 02, 09:04 AM
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Check out the Hayden stacked plate coolers... www.bulkparts.com/MM001.ASP?pageno=1182



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[This message has been edited by DjD (edited 06-20-2002).]
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 20th, 02, 09:50 AM
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Winch - I agree with DjD about the Hayden Cooler recommendation. Hayden makes a good quality product and I have never had a bit of problems with them.
Check the door rating plate on your F#$% for the GVW rating - it should be between 6000 and 9000 unless you've got one of them 'Big Dogs'. A cooler rated at 15000 GVW would be plenty big even for pulling a trailer.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 02, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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I was able to use a couple of brass fittings to get it to bolt on and I was able to use the stock bracket to mount it perfectly. Then I go to start it and nothing! I thought maybe I had killed the battery so I swapped in the new one I just bought for my 68 and still nothing. I has good lights etc so the electrical is hooked up. No click or anything when I turn the key. Any suggestions before I call the tow truck?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 12:38 AM
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Depending upon year of Ford, It could be either the starter solenoid on the fender, pos cable hooked to it, or, the ignition switch bad in start position.

If a newer model, either a bad starter relay, or starter motor.

Or for both cases, the neutral safety swich misadjusted or broken, if A/T. If manual trans, clutch safety switch malfunction.

But alas, if the truck is of the solenoid style, one can always take a pair of pliers and short across the solenoid to engage starter to start.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 12:55 AM Thread Starter
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It's an 88 with A/T. It wasn't having any starter problems before I worked on the trans fluid cooler. Sure don't know how I could have screwed up the starter doing that. I believe there's a selinoid on the fender well. It has two big posts. One has the pos cable coming from the battery and a bunch of wires attached to that post also. Then one other big post and at least one small terminal. I touched a screw driver to the two big posts for just a second and sparks flew everywhere. I guess that wasn't the right two terminals to cross! What are the right 2 to get it to start? And if that works what does that tell me to fix?
I should mention I usually dont' do any work to any of my cars except my 68 Camaro. It's the only one I know anything about. Cars got too complicated after about 1970.


[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 06-24-2002).]
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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OK I jumped the terminals on the selenoid and it started up but still nothing from the key. Bad selenoid? Autozone says they can't test them but they're only $7. I'll get one tomorrow if anyone doesn't have another suggestion or tip on how to check if that's it for sure.
Well the guy at AZ said if you can jump the selenoid then it's not the problem. It's probably not getting juice from the key. He said I could put a test light on the small terminal on the selenoid and turn the key to start it. If no juice, then it's not the selenoid. Makes sense. Bad ignition switch? Bad neutral safety switch? Where's that thing located and how do you test it?



[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 06-25-2002).]
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