AFTER BREAK IN WHATS NEXT? - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 02, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 1998
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Hello,
I have set the timing mark on the new motor to 8 degrees before top dead center and set the distributor to fire on #1. The car started right up(very loud going through just the headers)I imediatly brought the engine up to 2000rpm and ran it for 20 minutes. Every thing checked out fine, no leaks, pressure is good and didnt over heat. I shut the car down and drained the oil and changed filter, refilled . Now the car will fire up but wont idle. It keeps dying unless I feather the gas. I want to set the timing and tune it but how can I get it to idle so I can accomplish this? What idle should I set it at to start. Any one else have this problem and what is the best way if I am alone? Is there an adjustment I can make to get the car to idle fast upon start up so I can adjust it at the holley carb? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I want to get it on the road. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 02, 07:37 AM
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Mark
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Since I have just gone through this recently I will comment. The balancer needs a line on it exactly 36 degrees to the right of the TDC mark. You can do this with a cloth tape measure, or even cloth medical tape and the marks on the timing tab(12 degrees x 3). You can use the measuring tape and measure the circumference around the balancer. 1/10th of the distance around the balancer is 36 degrees. Mark the balancer with a black magic marker at 36 degrees and fire up the engine. Hook up the timing light and rev the engine up until the timing is no longer advancing as the RPM's go up. Now rotate the distributor so the 36 degree line is lined up with the zero on the timing tab and lock the distributor down. Shut off the engine if it won't idle at this point and make a few preliminary adjustments. I am assuming you have a Holley but other carbs may also work with this method. Turn the idle screw in one and a half turns in from closed throttle blades, screw the mixture screws very lightly in all the way and then back out one and one half turns from lightly seated. It should fire up and idle at this point.

Set the idle speed, adjust the mixture screws one at a time to get the best idle (or vacuum if you have a gauge)and keep reseting the idle speed back after each adjustment. That should get you driving. If not, there may be other issues not addressed here.

-Mark.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 02:12 AM
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Ken
 
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What temp did you get up to during break-in? I did the same thing this weekend. I didn't get it filled all the way the first fire up and it over heated. I restarted after it cooled and made sure it was full and ran for 25-30 minutes at 2-3k for break in but even then it got up to about 210. Is that too high and what should I do about it?
Stingr: I guess your carb specs will work for Edlebrock 750 also? I don't understand this though: "Turn the idle screw in one and a half turns in from closed throttle blades, ". What's closed throttle blades?

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 06-24-2002).]
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 03:05 AM
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Mark
 
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Start the car for the first time with the cap off and watch the water level go down. You can fill it back up as it goes down and then put the cap on after it stabilizes. There are pockets of air that will fill up with water after the engine starts up. 210 is a bit high but I would be sure to set that timing at 36 first and then worry about the temp as it is driving down the road. Retarded timing makes the car run hot so this is critical.

make the 36 degree mark to the right of the factory mark on the balancer. You will need to rev it up fairly high (3000-4000 or more as required) with the vacuum advance disconnected to see magic marker line stop advancing. Line the new magic marker line up with the zero on the tab and lock the distributor down.

Closed throttle blades is just that. The choke must be held fully open for this. Back out the idle RPM screw till it stops moving the throttle blades. Just look at the linkage as you back it out and see where backing the screw out further will have no effect on the position of the throttle lever. Now the throttle blades are fully closed. Turn it in till the lever just starts to move and then one and one half turns more. The car should start and run from there.

Hope this helps.

-Mark.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 03:15 AM
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Ken
 
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Do you plug up the vacuum advance hose that you disconnected or does it matter?
Thanks, this helps a lot.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 02, 04:30 AM
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Mark
 
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What I usualy do is pull it off the vacuum canister and stick the end on the top of the carb stud. That way it is plugged and harder to forget. You can't put the air cleaner back on without seeing it.

-Mark.
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