bent axle - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 02, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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I just installed a 12-bolt posi rearend in my 69. I drove it around the block to check it out and noticed the rear wheel was wobbling. Upon inspection the flange is bent on one side. I now have a new axle and was wondering if there are any special tricks or things to look out for in changing the axle. I have never done this before and am looking for any tips to make the axle change go as smooth as possible.

Thanks,
Greg
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 02, 07:54 AM
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Send a message via AIM to CamaroNOTcamero
pull off the cover.
remove the c-clip, then remove the brake drum. Remove axle, replace axle, then put c-clip on.
Clean of the surface that the cover seals with. seal up, and replace cover.

Make sure you be careful, and jack up the car correctly, and support with jackstands in the correct places, dont want to hear about anyone getting hurt.

[This message has been edited by CamaroNOTcamero (edited 07-05-2002).]
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 02, 09:44 AM
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I would only add to refill the differential with GM limited slip additive, 1-2 bottles, as well as fill with 90 Wt gear oil. You need the additive if you have a posi-traction differential.

-Mark.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 02, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Is there a difference between changing an axle for a posi and non posi rearend? Do you need to do anything special for the springs inside the posi unit? I had one person tell me to tie wire through them or they would fly off when you pulled the axle out. Has anyone heard of this?

Thanks for the responses,
Greg
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 02, 07:01 AM
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I've changed the axles in both open and posi 8.5" rears, and the process is the same.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 02, 08:00 AM
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Don't worry about tie wiring stuff.

Be careful with the 2 following items:
When you remove the bolt that secures the shaft inside the gears - make sure you get the whole bolt out. Occasionally a piece of this bolt will break and the shaft won't slide out. This causes major trouble.
Hopefully the whole bolt will come out and the shaft will slide out as it should.

Once this shaft is out, be carefull with moving the axles around and turning the gears. You can rotate the gears out of place, which means you need to line them up and rotate them back into place. This is a PITA. So CAREFULLY slide the axles out and don't rotate the rear end while the axle is out. Nicely push the axle all the way into the rear end, and the c-clip should fall off. Then carefully slide the axle out - like that game "operation" where you try and not make the patients nose light up if you touch the edge.

I've been burnt by each of the above. The broken shaft lock is a major show stopper.
Rotating the gears out is a "whoops" that if you think about it calmly for a minute or two, you'll be able to recover from.

With that said, this really isn't a difficult task. It's messy & smelly.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 02, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your replies, but I have run into another problem. I put the car on jackstands and drained the rearend. I removed the bolt and then the pin. I pushed the axle in as far as it would go, but it will not go in far enough for the C clip to come off the axle. I looked to see what was stopping the axle and noticed the oil seal was sticking out of the axle about 1/8". The guy who rebuilt my rearend put axlesavers in it to relocate the bearings. Would this cause the seals to not go in the axle as far? Can I just tap the seals farther in the axle so I can get the C clip out? Any help appreciated.

Thanks again,
Greg
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 02, 06:44 PM
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Greg.....look at it this way....the Guy replaced the bearings and seals with the axle out...
Try having someone push on the axle as You watch from underneath.....You might have to push against the seal a just little bit...and sometimes it helps to jiggle things a little for the c-clip to drop...
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 02, 02:44 AM Thread Starter
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I have tried wiggling and even lightly tapping on the end of the axle with a rawhide mallet. It was probably tight when he put it together, but I imagine it is easier to drive a C clip on than it is to pry it off. It is the plate that holds the springs together in the posi unit that the C clip needs to come through for it to come off. I was thinking that the oil seal was supposed to be driven into the axle flush with the end, not sticking out. Is that true?

[This message has been edited by GregSS396 (edited 07-09-2002).]
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 9th, 02, 05:38 AM
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The "repair bearings" are an assembly that comes with a bearing and a seal in a metal sleeve that you drive into the axle tube. They were on my car at one time, and they do stick out past the axle tube. They're a poor fix in my opinion, because if you need them, you really need new axles.

Since you have a new axle, I would go back to a regular bearing and seal. At least you can replace the seal if needed. I could never find a replacement seal for a repair bearing, and ended up buying another whole new assembly (around $ 30.00).

[This message has been edited by Rons68 (edited 07-09-2002).]
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