ZZ502 in, few questions though... - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 02, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Mike
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Steel City, PA, USA
Posts: 89
Just finished dropping in the new ZZ502, things went pretty smooth on the install until I realized that when I got her in and bolted up, the (I believe it is) Drag link, the tie rod that runs under the oil pan, HITS the oil pan. It's not bad until your turn the wheel, but it's not right. Does anyone make one that's bent to clear high capacity pans? or what do I need to do??? I really don't want to have to jack the engine up and swap out the pan.

Second one, the head bolts on the 502 have a thicker head and hit the header flanges, my solution will probably be to just grind the flanges slightly to clear the head bolts. But, has anyone else run into this problem as well?

Things are moving along and I hope to fire this sucker up this week, as soon as I get the rad mounts fabbed and get all these other things squared away.

Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

Mike

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 21st, 02, 04:42 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Conn.
Posts: 190
All right! another 502 on the road.
The link on mine hits the pan but only a bit. no big deal. It doesn't efect the steering at all.

If you can....Put a used set of headers on when you first fire up the motor. It says it in the instructions. Well I didn't and burned off the coating on a couple of the tubes. Something you might want to think about.

You will have to do a little grinding on the headers to make them fit. No big deal.

Do the normal break in. I changed the oil every 500 miles till 2500 miles.
The motor will get stronger as time goes on.
I've got about 15,000 miles on the motor now and loving every mile of it.
The head gasket started to leak on the back right side (a tiny piece blew out) so we took the motor apart and shaved the heads .005 and put it back together.

Enjoy the motor......one pair of tires at a time.

If you have questions send me an e-mail.

I just bought a '29 sedan delivery and I'm thinking of putting a ZZ-502/502 in that.

Do you need the engine break in?






------------------
502 Bob

69 Z-502
Nothing like a 69 with traction issues.
www.mobiletools1.com
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 02, 02:33 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Conn.
Posts: 190
Suggested Break-In Procedures for New Engines

(1) Safety first - check everything you have done, make sure you are ready to start your new engine by reviewing your installation procedures and inspecting all engine and drivetrain components. Set the emergency brake and chock the wheels. Re-check all your engine fluid levels before starting the engine.

(2) Upon cranking your new engine, you may find it necessary to adjust your distributor timing by hand to allow the engine to start. Once the engine is running, you should set the timing with a timing light to the factory specifications. Note, on late-model computer controlled ignitions this is not necessary.

(3) We suggest a minimum of 20 minutes break-in time at varying speeds. You should keep the RPM range below 3000 and above 2000. It is critical to vary the RPM's to allow proper cam and lifter break-in for flat tappet cam- shafts. Varying the RPM's is also necessary for proper ring sealing and initial break-in of all moving components.

(4) During the first 20 minutes, inspect the engine for any oil, fuel or coolant leaks. Keep close observation on the engine oil pressure and water temperature gauges for any problems.

(5) Once you have completed the 20 minute break-in time and have inspected the engine & drivetrain for leaks, you are ready to drive the vehicle. Do not forget to reset your idle and check your timing.

(6) Driving break-in procedures vary by application, we recommend that for the first 30 to 50 miles that you vary the speed and engine load while keeping close watch on your engine gauges. Do not attempt any full throttle accelerations and keep the engine RPM's well below the red line. A maximum speed of 50 to 60 mph should be sufficient.

(7) After completing the 30 to 50 mile initial break-in, you should change the oil and filter. Always inspect the oil filter contents, and the removed oil for any unusual debris. We highly recommend the addition of GM Engine Oil Supplement (part #1052368) at this oil change.

(8) Avoid extended periods of heavy loading or high RPM's for the next 300 to 500 miles of driving. Once you have driven the recommended 500 miles for final break-in, change the oil and filter again. Your engine should be completely broken-in at this point and ready for normal driving.

(9) You should change the oil and filter every 3000 miles for proper maintenance. For all other service items, please refer to your owners manual. Make sure to maintain proper records of the regular maintenance on your new GM Goodwrench Engine.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CNC Torque Specs

Use 30wt oil on all studs and nuts. Bottom all studs to 10 ft. lbs. prior to installation. Apply FULL torque to 1 through 10 before applying any torque to 11 through 20 (except BB Chevy Iron).

BB Chevy Iron
1-10 110 ft. lbs.
11-20 100 ft. lbs.
17 13 12 16 20
9 5 1 4 8
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
10 6 2 3 7
18 14 11 15 19


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BB Chevy Alum
1-10 95 ft. lbs.
11-20 80 ft. lbs.

SB Chevy Alum.
1-10 65 ft. lbs.
11-18 60 ft. lbs.
19-20 45 ft. lbs.

SB Chevy Iron
1-10 65 ft. lbs.
11-16 60 ft. lbs.
17-20 40 ft. lbs.

17 13 12 16 20
9 5 1 4 8
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
10 6 2 3 7
18 14 11 15 19


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Rocket Block Torque Specs

Rocket Block
1-10 70 ft. lbs.
11-16 65 ft. lbs.
Studs 10 ft. lbs.
15 11 13
9 5 1 3 7
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5
10 6 2 4 8
16 12 14


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

SBC Oiling Crisis

When preparing any new small block Chevy block, make sure that a plug (#33701638) is installed in the oil passage above the rear main cap as shown. If this plug is missing, oil will not be routed to the filter and the engine will not have satisfactory oil pressure. This plug is not installed on new GM small block Chevy bare blocks from the factory.







------------------
502 Bob

69 Z-502
Member of the George Washington Bridge Hole shot club.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 02, 01:24 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Austin, TX, USA
Posts: 5,277
Mobiltools - I noticed you didn't suggest priming the oil pump. Any reason why? I thought that was critical for a first start especially with flat tappit cams.

-dnult
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 02, 04:27 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SLC, UT USA
Posts: 275
ZZ502 has a roller cam...no break in period required!

Lee



------------------
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<A HREF="http://www.1967camaro.net
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ZZ502 Chevelle
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 02, 11:54 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Conn.
Posts: 190
dnult, I see that has to be added.
I copied the breakin from GMPC's site.

I've heard that also Lee.

------------------
502 Bob

69 Z-502
Member of the George Washington Bridge Hole shot club.
www.mobiletools1.com
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