Heater Core removal - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 30th, 02, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Northridge, Ca
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Can I take the heater core out without removing the passenger side fender? Not really sure how to get to the inner nuts.

Thanks,

Bob
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 01:11 AM
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Mark
 
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There are 2 ways to do it. One way is to butcher the job and replace the studs. It has been done in the past but I do not recomend that route. The other way is to unbolt the 2 bottom fender bolts and most of the inner to outer fender bolts around the wheel well area and perhaps even loosten a few of the other bolts in the vacinity and pull the fender out at the bottom. You need to put a wood block in the opening to hold it away from the body and then get access to the heater core box fasteners. Keep the band-aids handy. What a PITA!

-Mark.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 03:16 AM
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Take a close look at your blower motor when you get things apart. They're not that expensive, and as long as you already have everything apart.....well, you know the rest.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 05:34 AM
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Mark
 
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Wait a minute, If youíre just replacing the heater core and not the fan, then you donít have to mess with the fender. I just replaced mine last week. Just unbolt the five nuts on the engine side of the firewall, then disconnect the three heater control cables and the plastic vents attached to the heater box, and push (or hammer depending on stubbornness) on the studs protruding from the engine side of firewall. The studs are attached to the heater box. The whole heater box should come right out. PS. It really helps to take out the clove box for better access. Good luck
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 10:20 AM
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just take out the inner fender, and the whole thing opens right up. it is a lot easier- and faster- in the long run to just remove the whole inner fender. no squeezing your hand in between sharp pieces of metal to take off a few nuts, and just easier to get at. i also agree that it would be a great time to look at replacing the fan, and make sure to clean the box and firewall off and use a good sealer- don't want those pesky fumes in the passenger compartment.

------------------
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355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 04:34 PM
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Marktat's right, his way is better if you have a nice paint job on your car. A little more work, but if you go to losen your wheel well bolt's you might see paint chipping of as you make the first intial turn.

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NOTHING LIKE A 69 !!!!!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 31st, 02, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Bob
 
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Thanks to everyone!!! Good thought on the blower motor.

Nova - So you are saying take it out from the inside?

I was looking at the inner wheel wells, how many bolts hold them in? It looks like I will have to take out the coctail shaker as well.

While I have it all apart...what color was the inside of the cowl where the wiper arms are? Since it is all apart I thought I would check.

Bob
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 02, 03:17 PM
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I think they are the same color as the car.I have 2 Lemanns blue 1 Garnett red & a hugger orange. I think they they were same color as body of car when I remove the cowl's to restore them.

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NOTHING LIKE A 69 !!!!!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 02, 03:40 AM
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Please don't think I'm being controversial, & respect to every one thats posted, but theres no way I'd remove the wing, inner or outer just to remove the heater core. marktat in my opion is totaly correct. I've had to remove my core twice & never have I removed the inner or outer wing especially when I remember the trouble I had getting it lined up in the first place & the risk of scratching. And again in my opinion if the blower motor is working ok it seems a lot of extra work just to get to a blower thats working ok to begin with.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 02, 03:20 PM
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Jim
 
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I have always thought that cars came down the assembly line starting life as a heater core dangling from a string and the car was built around it.
hyuk hyuk...
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 02, 04:30 PM
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I have a step by step how to on my website,

www.67rs.com/macphreak4evr



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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 02, 01:43 PM
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Eric
 
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If you can get the right spot a small hole in the inner fender will let you get a socket in for that one PITA of a bolt. The other two blower case bolts can be reached from the engine compartment if you don't have big hands. I found a small flat rubber plug laying around from an old ceramics project gone bad that fit the 1/2" hole in the inner fender perfectly.

If you force that heater core through the firewall holes without moving the blower case to the side, you risk damaging your new heater core. The previous owner replaced mine that way and I wound up replacing it again just a year later - you could see how it was stressed at the fins.

ps. If you need to know the exact spot I could email a pic for you if you want.

[This message has been edited by Eric68 (edited 09-04-2002).]
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 02, 05:35 AM
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Eric, are you talking about drilling a hole in the inner fender to reach the bolt and then plugging the hole?

I would be interested in a picture of the location.



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My '67 RS
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