Loctite - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
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Is there an easy way to release a stud attached with loctite?

These are the studs that hold down my current valve covers. The heads are still on the car, so I don't want to heat them up with a blow torch (which is what I did with wheel studs that were attached with loctite).

Thanks!

------------------
David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 06:34 PM
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Are your heads aluminum or iron? If they are aluminum...oh man. I've seen locktite used on carburator bolts. Needless to say, the threads stripped out.

Iron is pretty forgiving. Try rocking the bolts back and forth until they come free. This will prevent any threads that do come loose or clumps of locktite from gauling up in the threads as you remove the bolts.

I'm not aware of any solvent that can be used to break down locktite. You might experiment with acetone, denatured alcohol, laquer thinner, or event vinegar. Dope up a few bolts with locktite and let them dry. Then apply the different solvents and see if any of them soften up. Hopefully someone else knows of a magic solvent - perhaps a locktite product. The trick is going to be getting the solvent to the threads provided there is a solvent that will work.

-dnult
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 07:35 PM
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use a propane torch, and carefully get the area around the studs warm. that's what i've been told releases loctite, and it has worked for me on brake calipers and such.

------------------
1971 Nova(looks like 69 camaro from underneath!)
355sb, vortec heads, HOT cam,T-10 tranny, 3.70 gears 16X8" IROC wheels. 12" Corvette brakes on the way.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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Right, I've done that before (read above)...

I don't want to do that near gasoline & oil though...

BTW---My heads are cast iron '70 LT-1 heads.

------------------
David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe

[This message has been edited by djunod (edited 10-27-2002).]
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 27th, 02, 09:05 PM
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If torch heat does the job of loosening the bolts, wouldn't the heat generated by simply running the engine do the trick too? I don't know for sure, but try it when the engine is hot, it might just break free. Otherwise, I know of no solvent, but acetone (nail polish remover) liquifies almost everything... so does carb cleaner for that matter.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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Doh

Why does it hold up under normal use then??? I used a propane torch to loosen them on wheel hubs... but then a wheel hub gets really hot when braking. Same with the engine...

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David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 03:01 AM
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Heat allows expansion but if the bolt isn't loosened when hot and the metal (block, head etc.) cools it contracts tight around the bolt again. Had you worked the brakes really hard and jumped out and tried to loosen them when they were hot you most likely wouldn't have needed the torch.

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...Dennis
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 03:25 AM Thread Starter
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What I'm saying is...

The purpose of loctite is hold the stud or bolt from working its way loose. Normal operating temperature for some of the applications is as high as a propane torch. What is the purpose in using loctite in those situations?

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David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 03:51 AM
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"Loctite 101"...Click on this, then scroll down to "removal": http://www.loctite.com/selector/faqs.html
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 05:17 AM
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I think the bonding power isn't removed by the heat, just weakened. The last time I had to heat something to remove a loctited bolt it still wasn't a walk in the park until it broke loose.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 02, 12:41 PM
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Hey I have an idea. I use this to get bearings of of Stihl trimmer shafts, because they are pressed on so damn tight. I take a can of liquid air, like the ones you use to dust off your PC motherboard, and I hold it upside down and squirt liquid air onto the shaft where the bearing is. The metal contracts enough from the cold that the bearing slides right off. Maybe if you tried to spray the bolt with this stuff it would shrink enough to a)break free from the loctite, and b)loosen the contact between the bolt surface and the head surface. Worth a shot anyway, just watch your fingers, heheh.
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 02, 05:01 PM
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What about using a “heat gun”? We use a similar product on mil- spec. cabling and we just use a very strong and hot heat gun. The stuff comes off like butter.
Mark (A.K.A. Z28 Mark)
post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 02, 04:28 AM
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First off what strength Locktite did you use, red , blue or purple? If its the blue or purple there should be no problem to remove with hand tools. Unless the bolt and bolt hole were perfectly clean when you assembled, chances are that the adhesion won't be that great the bolt won't come out. Just be patient and careful.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 02, 05:52 AM Thread Starter
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It was red. I've tried the standard non-heat tricks already, with no luck.

I haven't had the chance to run it long enough (no access to open air right now between the garage & "paint booth") to heat it up to see if that works. Probably won't mess with it until I'm done with the body & paint work.

------------------
David
Camaro - '68 327 Coupe, '86 Z-28 IROC 305 TPI, '89 IROC-Z 5.7 TPI (B2L)
Corvette - '73 Mako Shark II, '82 Cross-fire, '01 Coupe
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 02, 12:10 PM
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So you tried my "Cryogenic Spray" method too and that didn't work either? Bogus, I thought that would be the kicker. Oh well, remember it for press-fitted bearings in the future .
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