TRANNY TEMP HIGH HELP - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 02, 07:06 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Oct 1998
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Hello,

I just installed a 700r4 with a 2800 stall converter behind my 383. I also installed a trans temp guage and the wiring kit to lock up the converter from bowtie overdrive. I set the tv cable and am running a trans cooler in series with the radiator. I flushed all the lines and pressure checked the radiator. Took it out for a short ride and everything looked o.k. Upon taking it out for a longer ride, I noticed the temp shot up gradually over 250 degrees!!! This doesnt make sense to me especially with a trans cooler on a cool fall day. Is the tv cable misadjusted? How can you tell if the converter is locking up? Any suggestions would be appreciated. It is a brand new tranny all rebuilt to hipo specs, I dont want to burn it up.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 02, 07:48 AM
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Jack
 
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Could be that you were driving below the 2800 RPM and the converter was slipping building heat.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 02, 10:32 AM
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Something is wrong don't drive it until you figure it out. A convertor not locking wouldn't cause that kind of heat. I think you may have trouble with your TV adjustment but I an not an expert.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 02, 07:29 AM
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Interesting question...just how hot should they get. I'm not sure what the answer is. In my service manual they say to warm the transmission up to operating temp prior to performing some adjustements. They describe operating temp as being betwen 190 and 200* F. So it does seem that you're a bit warm, but not extreamly so.

The higher stall converter will warm things up a bit - as someone pointed out. Especially if you're cruising below stall with the converter unlocked. There are a couple of ways to test lockup.

One is to cruise at a steady speed in high gear - a condition that would normally lock up the converter. Gently accellerate so you are apply a small amount of power to the transmission, as opposed to a steady speed cruise where very little power is being transferred. Then lighly touch the brake peddle to disengage the TCC (you should have a switch on the brake peddle to do this). You should see the engine RPMs increase a few hundred RPMs when the TCC drops out.

You can also put a DVM on the TCC pin of the connector. 12V should be present at all times non computer controlled car and without a vacuum switch (most retrofits work this way). This configuration depends on the 3rd or 4th gear clutch pressure to engage the TCC. I would expect that when the TCC engages you will see a slight decrease in the TCC apply voltage. However that can be tough to see since some voltage regulators (particularly the buzzer type) fluctuate voltage with RPM anyway. Putting your DVM in series with the TCC circuit and setting your DVM on the amperate scale will give you a reliable reading when the TCC applies.

Back to temperature. I have read that some people don't recommend using the radiator mounted cooler. Someone on this board explained that the cooler has pourous metal - similar to those brass-bead fuel filters. These can get plugged with debri and don't flow all that well anyway. This same person recommended the B&M style cooler and did not even using the radiator cooler. Perhaps you are getting a flow restriction through the radiator. You might shunt the radiator cooler lines with a rubber hose temporarily and see what effect it has on temperature.

A misadjusted Throttle cable can cause high temperatures. All I can say is that it needs to be fully extended under WOT conditions. Some carberators - holley for one - aren't set up optimally for 700R4 throttle cables. There is an adaptor / bracket that will adjust the geometery of the TV cable to work more like GM intended. This may be a benefit. I know my holley / 700R4 setup seems to pull the TV cable out to far at idle when I set WOT properly. I intend to get the bracket I mentioned, but haven't had the car on the road enough to know how hot it runs.

There are a couple of other very knowledgable tranmission techs on this board, but they don't visit very frequently. Perhaps one of them will drop in and give you some advice as to your operating temperature.

-dnult

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 02, 07:53 AM
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Robert
 
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Are you sure the gauge is correct, I'd start there, just a thought. My 700r4 (2000 stall)has been averaging around 150 this fall in 60-70 degree weather. When locked going down the highway it will drop on down to 130 or so. I'm using an external cooler along with the radiator cooler. I have some instructions on how to adjust the TV cable from bowtie OD. I can email them to you if you'd like.

------------------
Robert Johnson

'69 getting better every day... (every pay day)
350ci 700r4 3.55 posi A/C PS PDB

[This message has been edited by rojo (edited 11-12-2002).]
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 02, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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I thank you guys for the info, any more info would be greatly appreciated as well. I think I am gonna check the guage first. Makes the most sense. I adjusted the tv cable according to the Bowtie overdrive specs . But I figure it is better to start with the guage first. I noticed it flutters when it hits the 240 mark. It flickers back and forth so maybe It is the guage. I hope it is. Someone else told me that if the tranny temp was 250 I would not be able to touch the tranny line at all. It would be way too hot, I am assuming at 180 I would be able to though.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 12th, 02, 04:22 PM
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are you sure that there is no buildup in the radiator where the trans coolant lines go into the radiator? before i did anything, i would evalueate the gauge to make sure its correct. is it new? sounds to me like everything's good and it should be running nice and cool.

if you drive below stall speed, will your torque convertor build up heat?
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