Drill Bit Sharpeners - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Robert
 
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Seems like every drill bit I own is always dull. Do the motorized sharpeners work? I've seen some that look kinda like a pencil sharpener, that would be great if they really work. All tips, brand advise, etc. is appreciated.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 11:20 AM
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I got one the Drill Doctors for Christmas one year. The thing is a joke, at least the way I use it! The bits are worse every time I used it. Doesn't seem to do the ends correctly, and yes I've read the book and tried different angles on the ends just in case.

Mine's been sitting on my shelf for about 5 years.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 11:26 AM
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Drill Doctor is the brand we have at work, you can back cut the tip. It also sharpens masonary bits. Does not work real good on bits smaller then 1/8", but does a great job on the rest.
jamie

[This message has been edited by 69lemans (edited 11-18-2002).]
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 11:38 AM
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Most people make a common mistake,they grab the drill and run it wide open.Different materials require different drill speeds.If you exceed the speed for a given material you will burn up the drill bit no matter how sharp it is.On most steel pull your hand drill trigger about half-way and use a lube.It will cut faster and you will still have a sharp bit.Sorry if it seems like I'm on a rant,but this is a pet peeve of mine.Good drill bits should last a long time at home if used correctly.In industry we sharpen them often,but use the hell out of them every day.....

Steve

[This message has been edited by 68L30 (edited 11-18-2002).]
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 11:43 AM
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I love mine but you have to keep trying snd trying it will work.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 02:56 PM
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hey i have a drill doctor and it works awesome, took a bit to learn the nack but it makes a cheap drill bit drill awesome, works better on medium size bits like 1/4 to 5/8 but mine seems to do the job on any, i know after about 1 year it sharpend like crap and the stone was worn all out so i ordered 2 one for the shelf and it sharpens awesome again, anyway, i would buy another one
Jake
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 05:02 PM
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Paul
 
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I have a drill doctor too!!! I love it! It shapens every bit I have perfectly.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 05:15 PM
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i have one, the cheap one with the sandpaper roll instead of the stone, does,nt work very good. i think if you bought the one with a stone cutter it would work better.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 18th, 02, 06:08 PM
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It doesn't surprise me at all that I'm the only one that couldn't make it work right!

Jody

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
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Robert
 
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Thanks for all the advise. I went to the Drill Doctor site www.drilldr.com and they have some good info. A few different models to choose from. Guess I'll try to check one out at one of the listed retailers.

Jody, maybe you should knock the dust off yours and give it another try.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 07:23 AM
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It's great if you can learn to hand hold and sharpen them on a bench grinder. I can do them pretty well after a lot of practice.
If you buy a drill guage to get the angle right it makes it easier.

I started by just touching up some 1/2" drill bits and got the angle to hold them right that way. Then worked down to smaller drill bits. The really small bits should be done on a very fine stone or belt sander, or just replace them, as they are pretty cheap.

I did every drill we had in the shop the first time and that got me pretty used to sharpening them by hand. I just rest my hand on the grinder plate and come up with the drill bit and slightly rotate it as I come up.

Cheap drills won't stay sharpened long of course and will chip away when drilling hard materials.
I finally broke down and got some good Snap-On drills, what a difference! The same is true with taps and dies, hardened and ground taps take so much less effort to turn they won't break off like the cheap stuff can. http://www.tpub.com/steelworker2/121.htm
David

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[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 11-19-2002).]

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 04:06 PM
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Jody,
Dont feel bad...we bought one at the shop also and I have not been real impressed. The bits never seem to last very long at all after sharpening. We have tried all the different angles etc. I think the main problem with the DD is that it does not put enough relief angle on the cutting edge. We do abuse the heck out of them sometimes, but I still dont think the DD is worth it. I have an old sharpener at home that mounts on the bench in front of a grinder. It sweeps the drill bit across the front of the grinding wheel and in my opinion does a lot better job. It is a bit harder to get used to.
Just my 2 cents,

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 04:59 PM
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Thanks Bill. I think that's basically what I've found.

Jody

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 19th, 02, 05:12 PM
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Heres a really easy way to always have a "tool" to check the bit angle. 59 degrees is a good angle for mild steel, double that because you have two cutting edges and you have an included angle of 118. If you take two nuts and lay them down side by side, the angle created is 120 degrees. Always makes for an easy check
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 06:12 AM
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Like davidpozzi says, a drill point protractor is a good alternative to the DD. it just takes some practice.& I wouldn't use anything courser or finer than a 60K grit aluminum oxide wheel on a HSS tool & at least a hand held diamond dresser to smooth out or "dress" the wheel. I make special cutting tools for machine shops, and 3 of my customers that have tried the DD. have not had anything good to say about them. But I dont believe they were made for industrial use. I use a Christen 2-32(Swiss made) that I bought used at a machine tool auction, and after getting used to it, I wouldn't use anything else. Holds drills from .062 to 1.125 dia. with a four jaw chuck(for good concentricity) and grinds factory points, right hand or left hand, HSS or carbide, & the drill point angle is completely adjustable. But the cost of the machine & 3 phase power requirements make it not so practical for home use. Just remember that whatever you use, try not burn the drill. If you do, you anneal, or soften the cutting edge, and the tool wont last. Hope this helps,
Terry
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