I only have experience with my stock horse-shoe shifter. As a result, I'd consider you look for adjustments on your shifter before modifying components. Sometimes, the cable anchor pin on the shifter can be relocated up and down. However this adjustment wouldn't help me in my case since I needed more stroke than the shifter or cable could provide...read on.
What I did was disconnect the cable and both ends and measure the stroke on my cable - (2"). I then used a bent piece of wire (~6" long), looped around the cable anchor on the shifter. I laid the wire next to a ruler and ran it P - 1. This gave me a measurement of the shifter's stroke - (2" also). Then I took my piece of wire and stuck it in the bell-crank cable anchor hole. I shifted the transmission and measured the stroke - (2.5").
My tests showed that I need 0.5" more stroke. Both the cable and the shifter were a limiting factor - so the adjustment had to be done on the transmission. The bell-crank needed to be shorter. To figure out how much, I used the following formula.
2/2.5 = x/1.75
where 1.75 is the length of my bell-crank from shifter shaft center to anchor point center. I used a draftsman's divider to appoximate the measurement.
X is the desired length of the bell-crank. Solving the formula for x gives 1.4". My shifter bell-crank needed to be reduced from 1.75" to 1.4".
I cut the bell-crank in half (nearest the midpoint of the lever. I then overlapped the pieces, got it close to 1.4" (or less), and tack welded it together. I welded the cable-half of the lever on the outside to improve pan - clearance. I then hooked everything back up and ran it through the gears. The all worked!!!
I removed the piece, welded it solid front and back. I buffed it up on the wire wheel and stuck it back on. Now my only problem is that flimsy B&M cable anchor washer topside. It flexes too much now that I've increased the force applied through the cable by 2/2.5.
[This message has been edited by dnult (edited 11-22-2002).]