SHIFTING PROBLEM IN A 700R4 - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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First off, thanks to everyone who answered my question about the tranny overheating problem. It was a bad sending unit. Got a new problem now. I installed the 700r4 and also installed a ratchet megashifter along with it. The problem is when I put the shifter in ratchet mode. The tranny will automatically shift from 1st to second without ratcheting. It will not go into third unless I ratchet and will not go into overdrive unless I ratchet it. Why does it go from first to second gear automatically? Is this suppose to happen? I thought I would be able to hold first gear in ratchet mode? Has anyone else had this problem? Did I hook something up wrong? Also when I put my foot on the brake the guage lights light up. When I drive the car at night and put the head lights on none of my guages or shifter lights light up unless I step on the brake. DOH!!!! Thanks In advance. Hopefully I can get this car running right so I can drive it in the spring LOL

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 20th, 02, 06:42 PM
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Sounds like your not hitting first gear with your shifter. I had that problem with my horse-shoe shifter after installing a 700. The bell-crank was too long and required more stroke to go from P to 1st than the shifter could provide. I modified the bell-crank to make it shorter and it works like it should now. I still need to replace the detent plate on the shift, but at least it spans the gears.

Put the transmission if 1st (engine off). Then crawl under and remove the linkage from the bell-crank. See if you can click it back another gear. If so then you have the same problem I had.

I don't know about your shifter, but my shifter and cable would only stroke about 2". The bell-crank I had required about 2 1/2" to go from P to 1st. Shortening the bell crank about 2 / 2.5 made it work. If I've identified the problem, don't use my measurements, take your own since your setup may vary.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 03:01 AM
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Mine would hold 1st if I was on it, but if I was part throttle or somewhere around there, mine would shift around 4500 - 5000

Not sure why though.

68 Coupe, 350 4-speed
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 06:45 AM
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I'm inclined to agree that the shifter isn't putting the tranny in 1st gear. I wanted to throw something else out there though. I had 2 Chevy Trucks with OD automatics and both were designed to only hold 1st when a load was applied. Put the shifter in 1st and it takes off and shifts to 2nd without moving the shifter. Another feature built into the truck tranny is if you put the shifter in 2nd and start out from a stop you would be in 2nd gear. This is done as a traction aid. If you don't find a linkage problem keep these in mind.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 02, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Gonna check that today. I have put a load on it and it still shifts from 1st to second right away around 3000-3200 rpms.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 02, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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YUP you were all right. Ratcheted the shifter down all the way and then went under the car. Unhooked the cable pin and pushed back on the tranny arm and "click" went into first gear. Another question though how do I adjust that cable so that it will ratchet into first gear? Didnt do the install so I am at a loss. Thanks In advance!!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 02, 01:29 PM
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I only have experience with my stock horse-shoe shifter. As a result, I'd consider you look for adjustments on your shifter before modifying components. Sometimes, the cable anchor pin on the shifter can be relocated up and down. However this adjustment wouldn't help me in my case since I needed more stroke than the shifter or cable could on.

What I did was disconnect the cable and both ends and measure the stroke on my cable - (2"). I then used a bent piece of wire (~6" long), looped around the cable anchor on the shifter. I laid the wire next to a ruler and ran it P - 1. This gave me a measurement of the shifter's stroke - (2" also). Then I took my piece of wire and stuck it in the bell-crank cable anchor hole. I shifted the transmission and measured the stroke - (2.5").

My tests showed that I need 0.5" more stroke. Both the cable and the shifter were a limiting factor - so the adjustment had to be done on the transmission. The bell-crank needed to be shorter. To figure out how much, I used the following formula.

2/2.5 = x/1.75

where 1.75 is the length of my bell-crank from shifter shaft center to anchor point center. I used a draftsman's divider to appoximate the measurement.

X is the desired length of the bell-crank. Solving the formula for x gives 1.4". My shifter bell-crank needed to be reduced from 1.75" to 1.4".

I cut the bell-crank in half (nearest the midpoint of the lever. I then overlapped the pieces, got it close to 1.4" (or less), and tack welded it together. I welded the cable-half of the lever on the outside to improve pan - clearance. I then hooked everything back up and ran it through the gears. The all worked!!!

I removed the piece, welded it solid front and back. I buffed it up on the wire wheel and stuck it back on. Now my only problem is that flimsy B&M cable anchor washer topside. It flexes too much now that I've increased the force applied through the cable by 2/2.5.


[This message has been edited by dnult (edited 11-22-2002).]
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