URGENT!! -HELP part III - Team Camaro Tech
Tech 2002 General Tech questions from 2002
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 02, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I put a jumper from the battery to the batt connect on distrib. and it started and ran. So can I assume its the ignition?

I tried to take the ignition apart but cant. There is a pin hole next to the key hole. Do you stick a paper clip in there or what. I did it before and I cant remember.

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obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 02, 10:45 AM
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David Pozzi
 
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insert key, instert paper clip, I think you turn the key to remove the lock. Once the lock is out remove the nut and pull the ign switch out the back.
I don't remember if you really have to remove the lock to remove the ign switch.
Don't you have a manual?
David

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Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
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67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 02, 10:53 AM
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In one of your other URGENT posts, think I asked where you hooked up the HEI wire to. The IGN terminal on the fuse block? If so you must have other problems such as no turn signals. Have you checked the output of the ignition switch? No power on the pink lead?
*EDIT*
Key lock has to come out first. Hold the pin in with a paperclip and rotate it past the ACC position to release it.

[This message has been edited by John_Muha (edited 12-21-2002).]
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 02, 05:25 PM
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Just for reference, the key is inserted, the paperclip is inserted into the little hole and the lock cylinder is turned counterclockwise with the key and wallla. It should be out. Good luck
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 21st, 02, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for all your help

John there was no power at the pink wire. I wire up my car with a painless wire system. So Im not sure if your question pertain to my situation. So, Im not sure about your question.

Tony

------------------
obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 08:33 AM
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Pink wire is the ignition output 12 volt line out of the ignition switch. It is the wire to check before yanking the switch.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I put in a new ignition, and it starts just fine. however, when I turn it off it burns up the 50amp fuse. I don't know if there is coincidence or this has been the whole problem. Anyway, do I have a short somewhere that is causing the problem? I cant find anything.

Tony

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obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 22nd, 02, 11:23 AM
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It takes a significant short to blow a 50A fuse. Sounds like maybe a wiring mistake or maybe a wire got cut into by a sharp body part (firewall maybe ?).

I would troubleshoot the problem by using an Ohmeter to measure resistance from the 50A fuseholder to ground. The load side of the fuse holder will probably read close to 0 Ohms. Using the schematic (hopefully Painless provided one), disconnect one load at a time from the 50A circuit until the resistance increases. When the resistance increases you found the circuit with the short. You may have to go hand-over-hand on the wiring harness to find the problem.

Good luck.

ps. In the future it would be a lot easier on those of us trying to help you out if you didn't separate your thread into different parts. Just keep it all in one thread and all the info will be in the same spot for us to look at
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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I pulled all the wires off the ignition and tested them. There is zero resistance for each one. Am I understanding that I should get some resistance or is this all wrong?

Please help,

Tony

------------------
obnoxious 67 camaro under construction. TH350/383 stroker w/ aluminum Edlebroc RPM heads,cam, and carb. Guldstrand mod, Hotchkis 600lbs springs. Next Hotchkis swaybar and disc brakes.This is a "Daily Driver" that still needs A LOT of work.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 24th, 02, 07:25 PM
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I remember reading the Camaro ign switch has a theft prevention feature. Never checked it, but the ignition circut is supposed to be grounded by the ign switch when the ign switch is off. This was advertized as an "Anti-Theft" device.
If something is providing power to the ign circut from somewhere else, it would blow the fuse by grounding through the ign switch.

You might replace the fuse with a test light and then start disconnecting fuses or wires to see what is grounding the circut.
David

------------------
Check my web page for First Gen Camaro suspension info:
David's Motorsports page
First Gen Suspension Page
67 RS 327 original owner. 69 Camaro Vintage Racer, 65 Lola T-70 Chev SB Can-Am Vintage Racer

[This message has been edited by davidpozzi (edited 12-25-2002).]
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 25th, 02, 06:17 AM
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OBNXUS67, Sounds like your getting some pretty good ideas.... Somewhere in one of your posts you'd mentioned that you installed a Painless wiring kit? You might also think to give them a call as well as keep up the posts here! I know I chimed in on this one when you started it. Keep us posted were all here to help

Best of luck,
Tom
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 02, 11:24 AM
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Don't confuse "0 resistance" (short circuit) with "infinite" (open circuit). I don't know what type of meter you are using but my Fluke says something like "0 L" when the circuit is open.

If you are measuring a dead short you should see something like 2 Ohms or even less, but you should never see 0. To test your meter just connect the two test leads together - they usually read 1 or 2 Ohms. Even wire has some resistance so it should never read 0 Ohms.

Hope this helps.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 02, 04:35 PM
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Eric68, You're correct... O L on your Fluke indicates that your "out of limit"! Even the leads that connnect to your volt meter has minimal resistance. Should read some resistance there. You may see "0" resistance due to several things... 1.) Because there is a dead short and little resistance in that peticular circut
2.)The volmeter does not register because it's not sensitive enough to register the resistance in the peticular circut that your testing.
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