ARP bolt problem - Page 2 - Team Camaro Tech
Transmission & Driveline Transmissions and Differentials

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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 19, 04:35 PM
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kevin
 
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Re: ARP bolt problem

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Originally Posted by 3d cad View Post
The question today with grade 8 bolts has to do with confidence that the bolt is as represented. Lines on the head donít mean sh** in China. ARP is a reliable source. Good bolts have a radius under the head. Good washers have a corresponding radius. They should be assembled that way, especially with SAE washers.
never seen that on a lock washer/ split ring / what ever you want to call it
arp head bolts YES
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 19, 05:23 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

ARP are actually better than Bolt Depot grade 8 bolts. All ARP bolts are actually "Rolled" threads, meaning they are not cut. A thread that is rolled is much stronger than a cut thread because the grain of the metal is not cut through to machine the threads, like when using a threading die or a single point tool. A thread rolling head cold forms the threads maintaining the integrity of the structure, while at the same time work-hardening the surface. The Aerospace industry is a big user of rolled threads as well as the military. You can feel the difference when handling a rolled thread because they are very smooth with no burrs or sharp edges, whereas cut threads have burrs and sharp edges.

If I have to remove more than one item to get to the fasteners, I will use only ARP. It has to do with piece of mind and quality. I am one of those "Brand users" when it comes to bolts and nuts. and ARP is that brand. Nothing else even comes close. It's just not made. Or I have't found it.

Brett.......

1969 SS 396 X66 - RS Conversion - TKO600 - 3.73 Posi - Paint Code 71-LeMans Blue
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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 19, 05:23 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

Aren't there differences in bolts that are used in rotational applications versus pull stretch applications I thought pull stretch (grade 8)compounds are more brittle versus rotational compounds (Grade 5)would give more

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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 19, 05:45 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

If you inspect an ARP bolt there is a slight radius where to shaft meets the head. This is why you need the beveled washer so the full head of the bolt is flat on the washer. A straight cut washer used will mean the radius of the bolt head will make contact with the inside edge of the washer and not draw flat on the washer.

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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 19, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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What good is a rolled thread when the hole it goes in is cut from a tap?
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69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 04:17 AM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

double post
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 04:18 AM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

as with anything consideration of proper use has its place. there is no need for a grade 8 or arp bolt to fasten sheet metal or your plastic fan shroud
consider the fasteners used in an aluminum head. you can ruin the threads in the head with a grade 5 bolt
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 06:22 AM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

If you don't have the correct automotive style bolt, ARP bolts sure do look nice as a replacement.

A hardware store bolt might work, but they sure are easy to spot under someones hood.

All my engine bolts are ARP,and a few Stage 8.

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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 08:20 AM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

Get another set, they're like 13.99. I would not hesitate to use ARP bolts for any fastener. I would not use hardware bolts to fasten the pressure plate to flywheel for peace of mind, maybe for mock up or desperate situations. In the past I've used Mr. Gasket for flywheel & pressure plate bolts with no problems.
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slazisme View Post
Get another set, they're like 13.99. I would not hesitate to use ARP bolts for any fastener. I would not use hardware bolts to fasten the pressure plate to flywheel for peace of mind, maybe for mock up or desperate situations. In the past I've used Mr. Gasket for flywheel & pressure plate bolts with no problems.
If these are junk again i’ll get gm bolts $1.99 each

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 09:29 AM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by stamatisg1977 View Post
If these are junk again i’ll get gm bolts $1.99 each
Whatever bolts you use on a pressure plate or flywheel, be sure to use blue loctite on them.

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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 12:02 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

I just wanted to add a little info, I am not some youngster trying to blow smoke up some ones undies. i am closer to 70 than 50
my dad was a tool and die maker from the 40s-70s. probably a lot here have no what that is. i am sure Brett does. he taught me about metal, the hardness, the use and even a little about forging
so maybe my antique info is out of date, but it has worked for me through out my life time
I have several engines that turned well over 7 K that stayed together without using arp bolts
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 12:23 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

While im at it what is the bolt/thread pitch for the transmission to bellhousing?[/QUOTE]


Pretty sure this is the specs on the bellhousing bolts.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...15768/10002/-1
These bolts are higher than grade 8 plus they have the flange under the head.
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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 12:50 PM
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Re: ARP bolt problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by flat tire View Post
I just wanted to add a little info, I am not some youngster trying to blow smoke up some ones undies. i am closer to 70 than 50
my dad was a tool and die maker from the 40s-70s. probably a lot here have no what that is. i am sure Brett does. he taught me about metal, the hardness, the use and even a little about forging
so maybe my antique info is out of date, but it has worked for me through out my life time
I have several engines that turned well over 7 K that stayed together without using arp bolts
Although you're technically absolutely correct, most hardware store and ALL home improvement center hardware is Chinese made JUNK and there is no certainty that any of it actually meets any quality standard for hardness/grading. The benefit of buying ARP is their (usually?) high quality control.

Counterfeit fasteners are a real thing.

This is a great read for anyone in our hobby. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...api_taft_p1_i4

Steve
1968 that started life and a 6 banger with a PG. Now it's a 350 with a TKO600, Moser 12 bolt, Speedtech LCA/UCA, ATS Tall Spindles, Hotchkis Springs, Forgeline ZX3P, C5 (Kore3) brakes with other cool stuff from Ron Davis, Vintage Air and soon to be Terminator EFI.


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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 19, 01:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: ARP bolt problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by slazisme View Post
While im at it what is the bolt/thread pitch for the transmission to bellhousing?

Pretty sure this is the specs on the bellhousing bolts.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...15768/10002/-1
These bolts are higher than grade 8 plus they have the flange under the head.[/QUOTE]


i figured it out using my thread pitch gauge its 1/2"-13

69 Frost Green Camaro
LS3 with TSP stage 3 cam
Tremec TKO 600
Moser 12 bolt rear with ford ends 3.73:1 Eaton tru trac differential
Speedtech pro touring subframe
Ridetech rear 4-Link


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