Raising the tunnel for T-56 install - Page 3 - Team Camaro Tech
Transmission & Driveline Transmissions and Differentials

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post #31 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 11:07 AM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Are you saying there is a Holley solution to help with a SBC application/install? I assume you can make new engine mount towers too and lower the motor. I just don't know if that causes any pulley or header interference issues?
Sorry I mistakenly thought we were talking LS

The Holley Kit is for LS Swap. I don't know if the Clamshell mount will work/lower an SBC. May cause other issues with the oil pan hitting the subframe or steering linkage and will affect header clearance.

Why not just do a TKO600?

Cheaper
NO Cutting
Shifter Location Works
Console Fits
Works great with SBC and BBC 1st Gens
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post #32 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVL SS View Post
Are you saying there is a Holley solution to help with a SBC application/install? I assume you can make new engine mount towers too and lower the motor. I just don't know if that causes any pulley or header interference issues?
Sorry I mistakenly thought we were talking LS

The Holley Kit is for LS Swap. I don't know if the Clamshell mount will work/lower an SBC. May cause other issues with the oil pan hitting the subframe or steering linkage and will affect header clearance.

Why not just do a TKO600?

Cheaper
NO Cutting
Shifter Location Works
Console Fits
Works great with SBC and BBC 1st Gens
I have a pretty tight fitting moroso road race pan and energy suspension poly mounts on my SBC, I can’t get my finger between the pan and frame.

1968 Butternut Coupe,
421" Dart SHP block
TKO 600 RR
Dutchman 9" w/3.70
Speedtech torque arm,Ridetech HQ coilovers
Global West arms
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post #33 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
Sorry I mistakenly thought we were talking LS

The Holley Kit is for LS Swap. I don't know if the Clamshell mount will work/lower an SBC. May cause other issues with the oil pan hitting the subframe or steering linkage and will affect header clearance.

Why not just do a TKO600?

Cheaper
NO Cutting
Shifter Location Works
Console Fits
Works great with SBC and BBC 1st Gens
No worries, on the LS/SBC.. Nah, I'm in too deep. Plus, I bought all the parts to do a T56 magnum. I just need the transmission and then get to it.

I am going to look into the engine mount setup and the possibilities of lowering the engine a little. I know I will still have to cut the tunnel but, perhaps a little less. My header is already close to the steering box so, that and the other things you mentioned may just be too much to deal with. So, cutting the tunnel is likely the best bet.

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post #34 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 04:12 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Originally Posted by EVL SS View Post
No worries, on the LS/SBC.. Nah, I'm in too deep. Plus, I bought all the parts to do a T56 magnum. I just need the transmission and then get to it.

I am going to look into the engine mount setup and the possibilities of lowering the engine a little. I know I will still have to cut the tunnel but, perhaps a little less. My header is already close to the steering box so, that and the other things you mentioned may just be too much to deal with. So, cutting the tunnel is likely the best bet.
Good luck in your journey. I will continue to follow this thread....

Brett.....
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post #35 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 05:03 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Quote:
Originally Posted by EVL SS View Post
No worries, on the LS/SBC.. Nah, I'm in too deep. Plus, I bought all the parts to do a T56 magnum. I just need the transmission and then get to it.

I am going to look into the engine mount setup and the possibilities of lowering the engine a little. I know I will still have to cut the tunnel but, perhaps a little less. My header is already close to the steering box so, that and the other things you mentioned may just be too much to deal with. So, cutting the tunnel is likely the best bet.
You need the same parts to do a TKO600 as you do for a T56 Magnum. So you can buy a TKO600 cheaper and avoid all the issues involved in fitting a T56

Just sayin.
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post #36 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 05:08 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Originally Posted by EVL SS View Post
Thanks for the pictures! Can you keep this thread updated or do a build thread on your install? Seems most post only show half or just some of the install. Where did you get your transmission and are you happy with the performance? What gears are you running in the rear end? Thanks again, Dave

Love the transmission. I have the close ratio model and use 5th gear a lot given that I have a low torque 302 and did not want to have to keep shifting between 4th (1:1) and a 5th overdrive final gear in a 5 speed if rpm were too high in 4th and too low in 5th. I didn't want to buy the 5 speed and end up wishing I'd spent the extra dollars for the 6 speed. Point is well taken from others suggesting a no-cut TKO (500 or 600), depends on what your engine likes in the way of rpms at the speeds you'll be driving. I used a Quicktime BH and retained my mechanical clutch, but that's another whole discussion. You should have no clutch issues if you're going hydraulic. I already had this installed and several hundred miles on the trans but still had a slight vibration so time to strip the interior again and get out the cutoff wheel. I'm running 4.10's. No question, an overdrive trans is the best money you can spend on these cars if you actually want to drive them.
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post #37 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 05:38 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Yes. Either way an overdrive tranny completely changes the drivability of the cars.
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post #38 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 05:39 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Originally Posted by ctcz28 View Post
Love the transmission. I have the close ratio model and use 5th gear a lot given that I have a low torque 302 and did not want to have to keep shifting between 4th (1:1) and a 5th overdrive final gear in a 5 speed if rpm were too high in 4th and too low in 5th. I didn't want to buy the 5 speed and end up wishing I'd spent the extra dollars for the 6 speed. Point is well taken from others suggesting a no-cut TKO (500 or 600), depends on what your engine likes in the way of rpms at the speeds you'll be driving. I used a Quicktime BH and retained my mechanical clutch, but that's another whole discussion. You should have no clutch issues if you're going hydraulic. I already had this installed and several hundred miles on the trans but still had a slight vibration so time to strip the interior again and get out the cutoff wheel. I'm running 4.10's. No question, an overdrive trans is the best money you can spend on these cars if you actually want to drive them.
Chris, how do you like the First gear ratio and how often do you use Sixth gear? I guess you have had it long enough that you can say you are glad you spent the extra money for the Sixth gear?

Brett....
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post #39 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctcz28 View Post
Love the transmission. I have the close ratio model and use 5th gear a lot given that I have a low torque 302 and did not want to have to keep shifting between 4th (1:1) and a 5th overdrive final gear in a 5 speed if rpm were too high in 4th and too low in 5th. I didn't want to buy the 5 speed and end up wishing I'd spent the extra dollars for the 6 speed. Point is well taken from others suggesting a no-cut TKO (500 or 600), depends on what your engine likes in the way of rpms at the speeds you'll be driving. I used a Quicktime BH and retained my mechanical clutch, but that's another whole discussion. You should have no clutch issues if you're going hydraulic. I already had this installed and several hundred miles on the trans but still had a slight vibration so time to strip the interior again and get out the cutoff wheel. I'm running 4.10's. No question, an overdrive trans is the best money you can spend on these cars if you actually want to drive them.

Currently, I have a 383. I haven't had a chance to dyno it yet but, I will in the spring. In preparation for the 6spd, I just got a 12 bolt, 4:10 rear end so, I think I'm good there. I also went with the QT bell housing, Mcloed hydraulic clutch kit, Mcloed clutch and flywheel and a Tilton throw out bearing. I need to order the trans and a cross member.

Is your 1st really short?

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post #40 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
You need the same parts to do a TKO600 as you do for a T56 Magnum. So you can buy a TKO600 cheaper and avoid all the issues involved in fitting a T56

Just sayin.
lol, I hear you. This has been driving me nuts for the last two months. I was stuck between keeping it a 4spd or jumping to the 6spd. I haven't driven a TKO but, read enough online where I felt, I wouldn't like it and I would be pissed I didn't spend the extra money to get a better shifting transmission. The fab work doesn't worry me. I have all the tools too do it so, no excuses.

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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 08:13 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Iíve done 3 T56 LS cars and 6 TKO600s. 3 LS cars. 2 BBC and 1 SBC. Never had any issues or noticed any difference in shifting between the TKO and the T56.

Best of luck with your build

J
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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 08:21 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

I've not driven a TKO, but I suspect some of the TKO shifting issues I've heard about are cockpit error. Can't force the shifts like you had to with a Muncie, just push the stick forward from 2nd and the TKO and T56 will find 3rd gear just fine. If you try to force or steer the stick through the gate from 2nd to 3rd like one has to with a Muncie that's where the problem is. Additionally, you may already know this, but regardless of whether you go with a TKO or a T56, check the BH alignment for parallel first and shim if necessary and then check for runout second (if you adjust the parallel fit after you've dialed in the runout it affects the runout alignment you just adjusted and you'll have to do it again). Runout is adjusted using offset dowel pins. Some sources will say you don't need to check the Quicktime BH for either parallel or runout; don't believe it, check it. If the engine is out of the car by all means align the BH before you install the engine as it's a real pain to do it under the car by yourself.
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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 5th, 20, 10:40 PM
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

Quote:
Originally Posted by ctcz28 View Post
Love the transmission. I have the close ratio model and use 5th gear a lot given that I have a low torque 302 and did not want to have to keep shifting between 4th (1:1) and a 5th overdrive final gear in a 5 speed if rpm were too high in 4th and too low in 5th. I didn't want to buy the 5 speed and end up wishing I'd spent the extra dollars for the 6 speed. Point is well taken from others suggesting a no-cut TKO (500 or 600), depends on what your engine likes in the way of rpms at the speeds you'll be driving. I used a Quicktime BH and retained my mechanical clutch, but that's another whole discussion. You should have no clutch issues if you're going hydraulic. I already had this installed and several hundred miles on the trans but still had a slight vibration so time to strip the interior again and get out the cutoff wheel. I'm running 4.10's. No question, an overdrive trans is the best money you can spend on these cars if you actually want to drive them.
Two thoughts.

First, check your motor mounts - the drive line angle doesn't care if the tranny is raised or the engine is lowered. If you have tall/narrow mounts you may get by by switching to low/wide mounts and, if needed, hogging out the holes in the mounts a bit to drop the engine even more.

Second, I chased a vibration in my '68 for about three years - including correcting driveline angles, changing rear gears (which I wanted to do anyway) and having the driveshaft balanced and then high speed balanced. After the high speed balance I noticed a lot of weights stacked up by the rear end of the shaft. That seemed to be patching an inherently out of balance shaft. I bit the bullet and ordered a new Denny's aluminum shaft. Put the shaft in and noticed the absence of vibration (which I didn't think I had at that slow a speed) from 20mph on up. It is a new car - not even a hint of vibration at any speed up to about 120.
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Originally Posted by Vega$69 View Post
Iíve done 3 T56 LS cars and 6 TKO600s. 3 LS cars. 2 BBC and 1 SBC. Never had any issues or noticed any difference in shifting between the TKO and the T56.

Best of luck with your build

J

You certainly have 100% more experience than me, no argument there! As I said, I haven't driven a TKO, I just read a lot and I have a local guy who also said, he wished he went T56 instead of the TKO. I was going to wait until the spring and maybe drive his but, Our summers are too short so, I need to get on this project now. I am fortunate enough to be able to go with the more expensive T56 so, what the heck. I'll give it a try.

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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old Jan 6th, 20, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Raising the tunnel for T-56 install

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Originally Posted by ctcz28 View Post
I've not driven a TKO, but I suspect some of the TKO shifting issues I've heard about are cockpit error. Can't force the shifts like you had to with a Muncie, just push the stick forward from 2nd and the TKO and T56 will find 3rd gear just fine. If you try to force or steer the stick through the gate from 2nd to 3rd like one has to with a Muncie that's where the problem is. Additionally, you may already know this, but regardless of whether you go with a TKO or a T56, check the BH alignment for parallel first and shim if necessary and then check for runout second (if you adjust the parallel fit after you've dialed in the runout it affects the runout alignment you just adjusted and you'll have to do it again). Runout is adjusted using offset dowel pins. Some sources will say you don't need to check the Quicktime BH for either parallel or runout; don't believe it, check it. If the engine is out of the car by all means align the BH before you install the engine as it's a real pain to do it under the car by yourself.



That is basically all I heard about both transmissions. Thanks. Yeah, I will do all the alignments, etc.. I only want to do this once!

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