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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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engine temp question

Since adding the procharger the motor temp has been hotter. I have my water temp gauge in the head. Prior to the procharger the head water temp was almost always aroung 190 degrees. Since adding the procharger the head temp will climb to 230-235 degrees. I just put a laser temp gauge to the radiator and motor and this is what I came up with.

Head 230
the radiator varies
on location 185-210
thermostat housing 195

I figured the temp would go up a little, but is this too much?

Marc


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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 05:33 PM
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Re: engine temp question

It's probably normal, but IMO too hot.
You need more radiator, or more airflow thru it.
Did you use an intercooler too, and how much flow thru the radiator is it blocking?

I'd look at radiator size, fan size, CFM, and shrouding.
I'd also do what I could to seal the radiator to the front of the car. The block off plates everyone is buying to fill the space between the rad support and upper valence do a great job on top, I'd also look at sealing the bottom of the shroud to the rear edge of the lower valance. If you can find some or make some, A/C cars had lil plates filling the space between the edges of the rad support and the fenders, this helps too.

If you have any room to work with, the more space you can keep between the intercooler and the radiator, the better off you will be.





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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: engine temp question

I have the block off plate. I am running an intercooler that is block 3/4 the radiator. The intercooler is about 1 1/4 inches away from the radiator. I have a 2 core (1 inch cores) aluminum radiator. I'm running a flex-a-lite black magic 16 inch fan with a shroud pulling around 3400 cfm. No thermostat, just a large water restrictor. I can't seem to find a fan that will fit that will pull more. I don't think I can space the intercooler any farther away. I could try sealing up from the valence panel to the radiator support. The water temp in the head only gets up to around 210 when out on the highway. The big problem is in town driving. It take about 15 minutes to get to the 230 range. I thought about putting a couple of 10" pusher fans on the intercooler to help in the stop and go and slow speed of in town driving.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 07:41 PM
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Re: engine temp question

Looking at your readings again, I'm linda wondering about reading 195 at the thermostat housing and 230 at the head?
Are these both shot with the IR, or is the head temp off the gauge?

Same gauge setup you used before?

What do the radiator tanks read?





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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 07:45 PM
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Re: engine temp question

Do You Have A Bypass Hose? If So Block It Off, Also If You Have Heater Hoses, Block Them Off Also, My Freind And I Were Playing With A Temp Gauge This Week And Found If We Started Blocking Things Off To Force Water Back Into The Radiator It Cooled The Motor Down. Just A Thought For You.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 07, 08:02 PM
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Re: engine temp question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rare4k View Post
Do You Have A Bypass Hose? If So Block It Off, Also If You Have Heater Hoses, Block Them Off Also, My Freind And I Were Playing With A Temp Gauge This Week And Found If We Started Blocking Things Off To Force Water Back Into The Radiator It Cooled The Motor Down. Just A Thought For You.
Ouch...
I dunno. I s'pose with a restrictor plate instead of a thermostat, you could remove the bypass on a big block. Personally, I'd run a thermostat, and the bypass hose.

The heater certainly isn't doing any harm, it is after all a miniture radiator, and if my temp gauge evcer went to 230, I'd have that heater cranked full blast in a heartbeat!





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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: engine temp question

I could try a thermostat. The head temp shot with an IR are within 10 degrees of the gauge. I'm not running a bypass. My timing is set at 36 degrees and I'm running a boost timing master.

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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 09:52 AM
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Re: engine temp question

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro man View Post
Since adding the procharger the motor temp has been hotter. I have my water temp gauge in the head. Prior to the procharger the head water temp was almost always aroung 190 degrees. Since adding the procharger the head temp will climb to 230-235 degrees. I just put a laser temp gauge to the radiator and motor and this is what I came up with.

Head 230
the radiator varies
on location 185-210
thermostat housing 195

I figured the temp would go up a little, but is this too much?
What all comes with the blower? Does it change the speed of the water pump relative to the motor?
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Re: engine temp question

I'm not sure if it changed the speed of the water pump. It came with a cog pulley about 5 1/2 inches diameter for the pump.

Marc


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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 11:01 AM
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Re: engine temp question

I would seriously consider a 4-core radiator. With only a 2 core radiator that is covered by 3/4 of intercooler - I would think you are not getting enough water cooled, fast enough.

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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 11:16 AM
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Re: engine temp question

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro man View Post
I'm not sure if it changed the speed of the water pump. It came with a cog pulley about 5 1/2 inches diameter for the pump.
How big is the crank pulley?
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: engine temp question

crank pulley is 7". No room for a thicker radiator.

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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 04:04 PM
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Re: engine temp question

Look at the radiator that you have now. Many radistors have 4 core end tanks, and they just don't use two of the cores. The unused portion is often towards the engine fan. A radiator with more cores may not take up any more space, than what you have now.

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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 06:24 PM
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Re: engine temp question

He has a 2 core aluminum radiator, thats two 1" cores
should be plenty of radiator, as long as it is the width if a BB radiator

If your fan moves 3400 CFM, that should be enough to keep it cool
I would look at water flow
You could try temporarily running no restrictor (or thermostat), and see how the temp looks then
I would hope the water pump is spinning fast enough, if not get a smaller water pump pulley
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 07, 06:27 PM
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Re: engine temp question

Quote:
Originally Posted by camaro man View Post
I could try a thermostat. The head temp shot with an IR are within 10 degrees of the gauge. I'm not running a bypass. My timing is set at 36 degrees and I'm running a boost timing master.
You can rough calibrate the gauge for temp by feeling the upper hose. When the thermostat gets hot & opens, the hose gets hot. View the gauge at the same time.

Putting a 4-row radiator may not gain anything as the last row, closet to the engine, may not offer any cooling effect due to the preheated air having ran across the previous three rows, especially with another heat source in front of the radiator. Just my thoughts, I could be wrong.

But I'm sure there is a fix as other vehicles run with a forced induction power adder. I had a '91 300ZX Twin Turbo and it had a 170*F thermostat from Nissan always. Intercoolers were outboard and to the side of cross flow alum radiator with two rows each being 3/4 inch wide and a smaller w/pump pulley. It ran, out of boost, on the thermostat, even with A/C on. Start boosting, and for a 1 mile stretch in full boost of 14 PSI, temp was in the middle, i.e., 210*F. Slow up out of boost, back to 170*F.

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