Re: 1994 3.4L running hot
Seems your science project turned out some good results.
On coolant level, when cold, remove the rad cap and add coolant every day until the level tops out. Also, keeping the reservior full or at the max level and several heat/cool cycles will displace air with coolant during cool down, coolant contracts and engine also, and draws coolant back from reservior. Coolant system heats up, pushes out air, and displace with coolant when cools. A vicious cycle. Keep a mental check or mark with tape and date it when coolant was added to keep track of coolant used. At some point in time, it should "level" out.
A quick backyard calibration of the coolant temp gauge would feel the upper hose and when it gets hot, thermostat opens up to allow flow, check gauge. If you have a 160° thermostat installed, then the point on the gauge is 160° - mental check.
Fan may be controlled by either the PCM, receiving the coolant temp through its two-wire sensor, usually mounted by the thermostat housing, or a separate single wire thermal switch in the cylinder head opposite head of the gauge sending unit. If thermal switch controlled, you might be able to wire in a manual toggle/rocker switch with the same wire and manually turn on the fan leaving the thermal switch in place as to not interrupt the OE design circuit.
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