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radiator

2K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  Steptoe 
#1 ·
Ok, I am looking at replacing my radiator with an alum. version for better cooling. Does anyone know off hand what the dimensions of a '67 radiator are and any recommendations?
 
#3 ·
If the alum rad is the same size as the copper/brass that you are replacing, don't expect any real benefits unless your copper/brass is in need of a clean.
A weight saving is the only real saving of alum. Very few fabricated alum radiators fit supports or shrouds as well as copper/brass with OE tanks.
 
#5 ·
Ok, let me add this. 1. I have a small block in my '67 camaro w/ an auto trans. 2. I am planning on a high volume water pump - alum. also. 3. I was under the assumption that an alum. radiator would disperse heat better and help w/ the cooling - Am I wrong? Really not trying to stir up controversy just want to be able to cruise Woodward or any other small town parade and not overe heat. yes, I have checked the thermostate and that is good, belts are good, new alternator- 70 amp. I grant you the alternator has nothing to do with cooling. Just needed to replace it so I got a 70 amp unit.
 
#6 ·
3. I was under the assumption that an alum. radiator would disperse heat better and help w/ the cooling - Am I wrong?
Well Im not so sure....brass is a dam good conductor of heat and so is Aluminum
The brass radiator is way over built that it requires a restiction to run properly.
Check the xmas link my sig it you want to know about slow cruising ...doesnt go over 165 deg...and xmas here is in middle of summer...and no hi vol pump either.

Difference between...Well at the end of the day its sort of like asking if a kenworth or Mac truck would be best for towing a car transporter trailer...

With the brass , clutch fan , shroud, clean cores its simple to setup
The Al electric fans etc lots of posts here for when you run into problems.
And the timing at bottom end rpms is not over advanced or retarded...or the carb too lean


want to be able to cruise Woodward or any other small town parade and not overe heat.
So do you have a problem now?
or do you thing you MAY have a problem?
And If you thing you MAY have a problem, would it not be better to establish if you actual'y do have a problem?
THEN sort it out?....most proberly by getting the header tanks pulled on the radiator and cores cleaned.....make sure have the right shroud...new bottom hose, and the clutch is not sloppy on the bearings

Also check that at the rpms that u intend to cruise with, there is enough water flowing ...look inside the radiator at the flow and check against the rpms.
A simple pully size may do the trick.
 
#7 ·
Alumitech aluminum radiators look like the original and claim 30% improvement in cooling over stock 4 core the same size. They also have tabs that will hold your lower shroud in place as an option at no extra cost. They aren't cheap but they look great and have an excellent reputation for quality, service and cooling. I bought one for mine and it's in but not yet driven as the cars is still in the restoration process.
 
#9 ·
Steptoe-So do you have a problem now? When I cruise the temp goes up to overheating so yes, in the summeer there is a problem.
or do you thing you MAY have a problem?see above
And If you thing you MAY have a problem, would it not be better to establish if you actual'y do have a problem? See #1
THEN sort it out?....most proberly by getting the header tanks pulled on the radiator and cores cleaned.....make sure have the right shroud...new bottom hose, and the clutch is not sloppy on the bearings- Also, realize the car has no heater for interior or defroster.
So, what radiator do you use, do you have any problems?
 
#14 ·
I agree with what steptoe has said in a different thread. Stock is a good set up or gm would never have used it. I was on the new bigger, badder radiator banwagon this summer. My car would get superhot when i sat in traffic. I ordered a new becool factory fit black alum rad for $699. I returned it after a bought a different fan spacer for $11.99 at oreilys. Problem fixed. Gm spent alot of money devolping a system that worked in 67-69. I dont think it just quit working. If alum rad is what u want then id buy one. But if alum is what your buying to fix a problem id just make sure you try everything else first.
 
#17 ·
MTN 10- Ok, assuming I have no plug or restrictions in my radiator hoses, thermostat works, everything seems to check out. No noise - bearing in the water pump, I don't know what else to check. Only possiblility I can think of is that the radiator was not meant for this specific motor when I bought it, I bought the cart used and have no idea as to originality of the motor. Can it be a 6 cylinder vs. sm. block , vs a big block all have different radiators? If that is the case , how would I check I have the correct size? for my small block 350 cu. in. ?
 
#18 ·
If you have heating issues while cruising, it does sound like a capacity issue, but "cruising" is not loading up your cooling system where a small radiator is going make a difference.
It does sound like your radiator's cores may be in need of a good clean.
When the engine is hot, can you feel any cold spots on the core indicating blocked tubes?

I'd pull the tanks and get it cleaned anyway. Then you know you've covered that base.
 
#19 ·
Core on sb rad is just over 20.5 inches wide. Core on bb is about 2 inches wider. Im not saying you dont need a new radiator, u may? I learned recently that a car is kept cool bye a cooling "system" not just a rad. I would do this first before spending $$$ on new rad. Then at least if it doesnt work out you have all new system once u purchase alum set up if u go that way. Make sure timing is right. That could mess up temp.
1)fush rad with water (make sure its clean)
2)new thermistat 180 $6 bucks
3)then i would start the car and let it get up to temp then i would get a leaf blower and turn it on full blast from engine side of rad. Have someone watch the temp gauge, if car cools down from over heat temp then its an airflow problem not radiator.
Fork in the rd now:if car cools down with blower then check fan setup. Make sure fan is half in and half out of shroud, too far in or out will not get enough air. If your running clutch fan it may be time for new clutch $50 bucks. The clutches loose effitancy as time goes on they wear out. Run at least 17 to 18 mechanical fan. My issue was fan to far in shroud. Moved it out and it dropped 15 degrees. Back to fork in the rd. If pushing all the air through the fan with blower doesnt. Cool it down then it may be time to pony up some cash. The be cool item number 12009 is a nice cheap(by be cool prices) set up.
 
#20 ·
Bill just go to summit racing and look under becool. Look at the foot notes it will say the dimensions/ what applications it is for. You can even look in a resto parts cat and they also give applications. Only use my advise if you think you need a new radiator. I think you should start with what Steve has suggested first. Does your car only get hot when cruising down town or while your catching the wind. (or both) MTN10 has a good point also
 
#21 ·
Steptoe-So do you have a problem now?
I didnt have an issue back then nor have I have one since 1984...I imported a factory radiator to replace the orginal because I had clamped off about 5 or 6 cores cause the leaked, and a few more where weeping and just rebuilt the engine, pulled the header tanks and a whole heap of cores where blocked....or put simply ..was cheaper to replace than fix or re core.
It still worksed ....nps other than having to top it up each day lol...
But couple yrs before I had issues, that when I found out orginally about the clutch fan, the shroud , and over heats with no thermostat restriction....
Since then applied to quite a few cars, including a japper 300z with Sb...very nice conversion...once shrouds etc set up like they are meant to be.

That is a 1951 Jowett Bradford van..one of my vintage cars.
I tow that 100s of miles....
The only time I run warm in the last 16 yrs gets up to 190...it when I high up Mt Ruraphu in the central Nth island...getting well up into the snow line and its more or less straight up the side of the mountain...hi alttude, and car tuned for sea level....which is to be expected.

Great looking Camaro
Thanks, it a daily driver..I mean a real daily driver, work shopping, everyday..coming up 300,000 miles...Amazing what a coat of polish, a good regulater vac out does lol....It is the cheapest and most reliable car I have ever owned in the last 42 yrs since my 1st car.

When the engine is hot, can you feel any cold spots on the core indicating blocked tubes?
That is imposable to tell...once the engine is hot the heat goes right thru the radiator and cant feel blocked cores

One starts off with the system cold....or drop the coolant pout and replace....
As the engine warms up, the thermostat lets stuff all water thru
When it opens there is a rush of warm water, heats up the areas/cores very quick and the blocked cores are slow to warm up

Generally it is the lower cores and passenger side that stay cold....

If one pulls the stop **** out the bottom. with a bit of welding wire with a hook, digs around and find bits of crap, bottom hose reenfoecing hose, chances are there will be blocked and partly blocked cores
 
#23 ·
That is imposable to tell...once the engine is hot the heat goes right thru the radiator and cant feel blocked cores
Not really, but I also have an infra red temp gun that pin points where it reads.. Maybe that's cheating.:p
 
#22 ·
PS when replace a thermostat...make sure you get one of the 180 deg that is FOR the early SB...thewrmosts may be 180 but they have other specs like how far they open (flow) how fast the open the temp range they open between....

Flusjing..Im a bit unconventrual....drain, mix up a cup of washing machine powder in a 1/2 bucket warm water...throw in top up....go for a cruise for 10 mins...
put the hose in the filler pull the top hose and let it back flush...fire up ever now and then a and keep flushing till no more bubbles....drain
mix up the anti freeze soln...top up filler, pump the top hose a few times, top up,cap on fire up, and drop 500ml out the bottom stop ****... this pretty close dops the level to the hot and cold mark on the radiator.

This method, if you have a suspect core or seal /leak..it will leak very soon lol.
 
#24 ·
I agree with the above - if you are having problems with a reasonably built engine and a stock cooling system and a clean radiator there's other things to check first like timing, vacumm leaks and correct fuel / air ratio. Why don't you give us some information on your current engine, carb and timing to see if folks can help you out there before investing in a new radiator. Cruising and hitting high temps means something is wrong somewhere else probably. What ever you end up doing, I would definitely stick with a factory shroud and fan set up. I've read more posts about over heating with aftermaket fans/shrouds than I could believe.

The reason I put an Alumitech aluminum radiator in mine was because it looks stock, I had to buy one anyway, (the core on the old one was shot) and the engine is a 408 which the cooling system wasn't really designed for. Plus I am going to run a transmission cooler in front of the radiator which blocks some of the flow. I figured better too big than too small. I went with a 23 inch and a factory fan shroud from a 68 Camaro with AC which matches the 23 inch width radiator.
 
#25 ·
Never tried with a gun....too much hassle getting it out and stuff..plus they where so bloody expensive if even existed back when I was sorting out.
Just find cold start, run hand around the radiator easy.
Actually I really dont like using my gun at all...there are so many differences between colours and types of xurfaces has to be re zeroed, forget to do so ....the thermo couple on my multi meter and dial thermometer far easier and relible.
 
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