VA GenIV wiring question - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 11, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Ted
 
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Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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VA GenIV wiring question

I am just finishing up on the wiring of my VA GenIV unit. By their wiring diagram and sketch they show and say that the 2 white wires (one larger guage than the other). Needs to be wired directly to battery ground. If you have installed this unit is that what you did? Or did you just ground the 2 wires to the body somewhere?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 11, 05:43 PM
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Greg
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

They suggest you run the wires to the battery to alleviate picking up potential nasty interference, degrading the operation of the CPU.

I cut both my whites and grounded to a good clean firewall point using star washers, above the evap, and that part is fine. This assumes you have a solid short ground between the battery and frame, not just the battery and engine.

You do however want to run the positive to the battery junction block post (behind battery). It is good practice to install an inline fuse right at the battery junction block.

Do not run this positive wire with any other wire, it will pick up EMD and cause the CPU to do unconventional stuff such as cycling the fan off-on and hyper chattering the heater control solenoid. This is first hand advice.

1969 RS/SS Vert

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 11, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ted
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

My battery ground is short to the fenderwell. Ground from subframe to body. And the same ground point (fenderwell) to engine block. Was planning on running the positive to the junction block (one like MAD sells) not stock type. What do you mean "don't run it with any other wire"? What is EMD? Thanks Greg. Oh and what amp in-line fuse did you run?

Last edited by tgifford5; Jul 6th, 11 at 07:03 PM. Reason: Additional ?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 11, 08:27 PM
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Greg
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

Yes your grounds seem good, Shortened white ground wires should be fine.

The VA CPU is very succeptable to external interference. I ran my power wire bundled with an MSD power wire and heater solenoid trigger wire. I had problems with heater solenoid chatter and the fan pulsing when in the off position. The problems only occurred with the car running and not with just the ign on only. By trying different troubleshooting methods I concluded that the VA power wire was the problem. I reran a new wire alone and problem solved. I went back and forth several times to validate that. I meant EMI - electromagnetic interference, which is magnetic or electrically induced interference in circuits.

I used a 20a fuse at the terminal end and that worked out well. Good luck!

1969 RS/SS Vert

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 11, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Ted
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by chops View Post
Yes your grounds seem good, Shortened white ground wires should be fine.

The VA CPU is very succeptable to external interference. I ran my power wire bundled with an MSD power wire and heater solenoid trigger wire. I had problems with heater solenoid chatter and the fan pulsing when in the off position. The problems only occurred with the car running and not with just the ign on only. By trying different troubleshooting methods I concluded that the VA power wire was the problem. I reran a new wire alone and problem solved. I went back and forth several times to validate that. I meant EMI - electromagnetic interference, which is magnetic or electrically induced interference in circuits.

I used a 20a fuse at the terminal end and that worked out well. Good luck!
Greg do you think the interference was just from the MSD wire? Did you test run the VA power wire and heater solenoid wire and get the same result? I was going to run VA pwr, heater solenoid and bynary switch wires together behind the fender. Those would be the only wires running along side of each other. Would a fuseable link work also instead of a fuse?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 11, 05:09 AM
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Greg
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

Yes I think the EMI was from the MSD power wire and the VA power wire running together, but the alternator had something to do with it also. I could unplug the field wire on the alternator and the VA operated fine with the MSD and VA wires together, so the alt was putting a transient on the line also.

Once I reran the VA pwr route everything works well together now.

I could not try the heater solenoid wire with just the VA power wire, as I had already buttoned up the fender (wires run in fender). I just had to abandon the fender-ran VA pwr wire and run a new wire/ new route to the battery terminal. The heater/power wire combo should be OK but if you can test the system first before you replace fender that would probably be best. I suppose that is not possible though unless you have your own 134a charging station......Second thought you may want to run a second, isolated VA pwr wire in the fender "just in case", you can easily pull it out if not needed.
A fusible link of sufficient size is fine.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 11, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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Ted
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

My fenders are buttoned up. But I ran long white and red wires with my hose through the kickpanel and through the blower hole during installation. My alt wire is already going a different route, up along the pass side valve cover. I will use just one already installed wire to pull my pwr, solenoid and binary switch wires. Leave my white ground wires inside the pass compartment. Leave the other installed wire just in case I need to pull more wire. Would encasing the pwr wire with the accordion type wire protection have been sufficient to avoid EMI? Or is that not enough insulation? What is considered sufficient size of fuseable link? Thanks for all your help Greg. I'm sure others that are thinking of doing this type of installation and running wires will benefit from what you have learned.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 11, 09:45 AM
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Greg
 
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Re: VA GenIV wiring question

LOL I zip tied and taped down my wires on top of the wheelhouse, so they are there until I pull the fender off.
Yes good idea to keep a pull wire in there in case you need another wire.
And no the plastic wire loom is not the answer, and it isn't an insulation issue. For the pwr wire to work, as I had it, would need a metal shield / wire braid around it, grounded at one end, like RF coax is managed. I tried wrapping the pwr wire in a ferrite trap and also a few capacitors and it did not resolve the initial EMI.

I don't think you will have problems as long as MSD pwr is not loomed with the VA pwr. Like I said, even this worked when I disconnected the alt field wire, so the alt had a play in it too. But all is well now.

A 20a fuse link like Advance or Pep Boys has would work fine. I think they are tan or brown.

1969 RS/SS Vert

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