Intake temp versus water temp. - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 11, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Kraig
 
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Location: Wichita Falls, TX
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Intake temp versus water temp.

So this is another post on a similar subject I have been dealing with. Just put in the new alumitech radiator and all is well...I think. I'm running a temp around 180F now in the water which is much cooler than before.

Here is my question and was wondering if a couple of you could do a test for me. Using my infrared temp gun, which I have tested and know it is accurate, I was pointing all over the engine. The water neck is running between 160-180, same as the hot side of the radiator and upper radiator hose. The lower hose is running 150 ish give or take. The thing is, is that the alluminum edelbrock intake is running much hotter. I don't know if it's heat soaking and normal or not. It's showing into the high 190's and hotter based on driving.

Could a few of you use you temp guns and tell me what your intake temps are versus your water necks and upper radiator hose? I didn't think it should be and hotter than my water. My dad thought that maybe a heat riser plug came loose. I think that's what he said. He mentioned that it is inside the engine under the intake and I wouldn't be able to tell unless I took the intake off. He said that hot exhaust from this riser could be heating up the intake. Let me know. Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 11, 03:45 PM
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Al
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Which Edelbrock intake do you have? Most of them don't have the carb pre-heat passage.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 11, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Kraig
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

I'm running the performer. It has a exhaust heat riser next to the carb, but I don't use that and it has a plate over it. My dad was talking about something INSIDE the engine underneath the intake. I don't know what he meant. Any ideas. Anyways, what are your temperatures.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 11, 06:09 PM
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Steiner
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Your oil runs at about 230 or so and splashes all over the bottom of the intake so it'll eventually heat soak from that. That's the idea behind the isolated runners on the Air Gap models.

If the intake just has one plate bolted to the side, that's available for heated choke. If your dad was talking about the exhaust crossover, those are the two little bumps on the intake against the heads you see between runners 3-5 and 4-6. On OE heads, there are corresponding holes in the head right there that are connected to the exhaust ports. Intake gaskets come with little plates to install over them to plug them off. You might be able to just pop that heated choke plate off and see if at least that side is plugged. In the Performer line, I think the Air Gap models are the only ones that come with the exhaust crossover eliminated completely.

My car is down for the count right now but with an Air Gap intake everything is pretty consistent all over the engine.

'69 Camaro
Dart 400-AFR 195-224/224 HR-Powerjection III TB with F.A.S.T. Sportsman XFI
TKO 600-Moser 3.42-Detroit Truetrac
500hp/538lbft

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 11, 09:13 PM
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Steps
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Quote:
Here is my question and was wondering if a couple of you could do a test for me. Using my infrared temp gun, which I have tested and know it is accurate, I was pointing all over the engine.
id you read the manual before using the IF ?
Note that it reads different on different surfaces espec if those surfaces maybe shiney or reflective and black.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 11, 03:41 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

The engine metal parts are always going to be hotter than the coolant - that's what drives heat transfer to the coolant. The more the difference the faster heat is transferred to the coolant. If the temperature was the same, there wouldn't be any heat moved out of the engine to the coolant. A 10 degree difference is not much IMHO. I'd test it for you but don't have an IR temp gun. To make sure you are getting accurate readings, you need to put some black tape on the mainfold where you are taking the temperature though- I think the black tape will read higher than the aluminum since black radiates heat better than lighter colors like aluminum.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 11, 02:28 PM
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Steps
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Steve is on to it...I have tryed the tape, did give consistantr but the plastic didnt give what seemed accruate.....a smear of black board paint works

Quote:
A 10 degree difference is not much IMHO.
Thats a though I had after posting above.....when one boils (no pun intented lol) it back to basics...its not enough to even worry about...

And a side note...more over all heat is disipated thru the oil than the water system..hence why sumpsa are black, good tappet covers are finned and matted between fins and painted black...
Old saying "Chrome for show, Black for track"
lot more in that than people fully understand.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 11, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Kraig
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Thanks everyone. I test the black tape or paint idea and get back to you. The big question was answered about the exhaust crossover versus the choke plate. I'll let you know if I can remove the choke plate and see the the exhaust crossover. I just can't remember if they were plugged or not. It all started with a heat problem. When the engine would get hot the car would start to run like crap. I thought for a long time that it was timing and mixture. It may have been somewhat but it didn't fix it completely. Then I thought it was the cooling system. With that all brand new, it drastically helped, but I still wonder. It just seems that the intake is getting really hot compared to all the other metal parts on the engine. I'm worried about the fuel in the carb, because the carb is so damn hot that I'm worried about boiling and vaporizing. The cooling system is now way overkill in my opinion, and may be covering up a bigger problem. That is the only reason I ask. I just wanted to make sure that it is now normal.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 11, 02:19 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

As I am sure you know, getting your jetting, idle mixture and timing dialed in are about the only things left to manage engine temps now that you know it's not your cooling system. A composit or fiber spacer between the carb and the intake can help keep the carb cooler if you have problems with boiling the fuel, but you shouldn't need that really IMHO.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 11, 01:38 PM
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Steps
 
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Re: Intake temp versus water temp.

Quote:
A composit or fiber spacer between the carb and the intake can help keep the carb cooler if you have problems with boiling the fuel, but you shouldn't need that really IMHO.
There is a heat riser under the carb and should be bloked off if not using EGR later model polution addons.
percuation issue, and even without an insulation block or factory heat sheild, perculation is very rare an issue, and if it is its only when the car is sitting ildleing for a while, or after turning off and sitting for a few minutes....once moving it generally is not an inssue in most cases.

My Spelling is not incorrect...it is creative

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