I just ran the engine up until the timing was all in and then set it to 36 degrees. hope that is the right way to do it
Yes....then adjust the springs so its all in about 3000 /3200 rpms
And adjust the amount of cent degs to maintian the 34 all in but have about 8 to 10 degs intial.
8 to 10 degs intial is not enough to idle...
Thats where the VA comes in.....
u establish a good idle advance....somewhere between 16 and 20 degs (depends on you engine) if ithe idle advance is established as say 18 degs, and the intial is 8 degs, then 10 degs in the VA all in at the vac when idling at the intial....
So easy low load on the starter with the low intial, fires, the VA comes in and idles at about your 18 degs
Can a blocked heater core cause higher operating temps and if so any way to check the heater core without pulling it?
Yeah...if everything else in the cooling is good, fan clutch, pump hoses cap etc....it will be radiaror cores.
I dont get the logic of 99% of guys who rebuils or put a new engine in.....they replace the oil pump and a whole lot of other stuff, but dont pull the header tanks on the radiator, manually clean the cores.
The stock radiators and pump etc are WAY WAY over built...hence the take a lot of abuse, neglete for yrs on end before giving trouble.....And that trouble is usually not long after and engine rebuild...which by coincidence, little bits of gasket sealer fall off, eventually get into cores that are partly blocked, and with those blocking off plus the ones already blocked /partly blocked, the radiator stops doing its job.
Fortunatly in NZ we still have old school tradesmen who rebuild raditors ....withing a 4 mile radius I know 3, awhere of another 3....Spend a biy of time with these guys and they will show one this stuff....including my own raditors lol
Damn near all engine rebuilders in NZ and the sale of a new engine, a fully serviced or new radiator is a requirement of the garantee.
Thats how important this is.
If you run it hard from a stop up to 60 or 70 it sends the temp gauge over to the right pretty quickly.
NoW THAT is a worry, even a radsitor that is a bit blocked, it should not heat that fast.
2 things cause that
a stuff radiator cap or to low press rating (make sure u have a 15lb cap)
Blown head gasket
Forget the bubbles in radiator ...its not relable
Head down to the local workshop, they can test the cooling system for hydrocarbons (HC) it takes about 3 to 5 mins..including getting the tool off the rack, setting up, running the engine, clean and put away....most workshops do this in NZ as a fee check.
Even a 3 core in good condition is fine on a BB....that is howover built GM made there cooling systems.